Ford 3000???? Problems

   / Ford 3000???? Problems #1  

skitzboy

New member
Joined
Jun 20, 2011
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17
Tractor
1975 Ford 3000 Diesel
Have ford 3000 series tractor that is hard starting. It is smoking a light grey smoke at start up for about 30 seconds to a minute. It smoke black smoke when gunning the throttle. I just replaced the injector pump and injectors I bought a new starter that will go in tomorrow. The history of the tractor is this: the guy I bought it from bought it out of a field, had a shade tree mechanic fix it up to run and ha it two years it got to the point he had to pull start it and bought a new kabota tractor. Then I enter the picture I bought it non running after it sat for a year. I took it home last June an got really sick to the point of 90+ trips to salt lake city to the va for treatment from Montana.

I took the injector pump and sent it to Mylex international to rebuild it and the injector. I just got them put back in. Changed fuel filters, oil filter, oil, blew out the fuel lines, new 4dlt battery, new battery cables, Fresh fuel, bled all lines and changed antifreeze when I had the injector pump off. No oil in the radiator and no loss of water from the radiator. Fuel flow is strong. I order a compression adapter from handsontools.com it should be here Monday or Tuesday. I also have brand new three ring tires for the front coming from Whalen tires on Wednesday.

It takes about 4 minutes of cranking and about 8 seconds of ether shot from about 3' away from the air filter. I have started three times now total. I get about 30 seconds to 1 minute of light grey smoke same as when I start my 08 dodge mega can diesel. After that it is black smoke I have posted video to YouTube under the username : skitzboy007

I need suggestions of where to start on the black smoke and lack of power. I took it to an equipment shop and they said the excessive smoke and lack of power was really odd. Running the hydraulics at idle can kill the tractor simple pushing of left over hay in the sheep pen in first gear low almost shut it down. It does seem after this third time running I used it for about two hours it starts to develop more power.

I am going to change the transmission fluid and rear end using the diesel/alcohol method tomorrow when I do the starter and also add a gallon of automatic transmission fluid to my fuel tank since it sat unused for two+ years.

It is manual steering, independent PTO, and has a solid thick axel I think it is either a 3400 or possibly a 3600. Alternator is strong And charges battery while running I need a new console/ gauge set.

I bought the tractor with the Davis loader for $1500 it cost me $482 for the injector and pump rebuild due to Mylex firing a service manager and being lost in the shuffle for 4 months they did it for cost of parts only as the cam and all internals had to be replaced. They were very apologetic and made it right with me. I have $230 in the tires. The battery was under warranty from the gentleman I bought it from so no charge. I have maybe another $100 in filters, oil and hydraulic fluid. The starter was $179 from new holland. So all I am into it is $2479. It has new rear tires and 400# of rear wheel weight that it came with as well as a set of chains for the rears and a split rim chevy wheel and tire he threw in for my 1937 Chevy 3/4 ton.

Here is the bottom line:
-where should I start looking for the smoke and lack of power
- could it be hydraulic pump related i.e. Working the engine to keep the hydraulic pressure up
- can power steering be added to this tractor?
- if rings can that be done with out splitting the tractor with the front axel type I have?
- what type of tractor do I have?
-
 
   / Ford 3000???? Problems
  • Thread Starter
#2  
Also I know ether is bad for the engine. I am doing it in hopes that it is from lack of being turned over for 2+ years and to check engine temps while running and a general shake down. Also any other gear other first gear in the high setting will put so much strain that the tractor will die all low range gears work. It is an 8 speed. Help is greatly appreciated.
Craig
 
   / Ford 3000???? Problems
  • Thread Starter
#3  
**** I forgot to say I removed injector pump with out removing the gear and replaced I set the pump at the Zero setting and found it worked better if I moved it to the first line above zero (2) anything over 4 above or below zero kills the engine. Lastly once warm it will start repeatedly with no ether and only cranking 3-4 seconds

Sorry I am so long winded but wanted to thoroughly document the problems so that I don waist your time having you ask questions that I should have supplied information on.
 
   / Ford 3000???? Problems #4  
I don't know about a gallon of atf in the tank, a quart certainly. How much old, how old is the diesel in the tank?

Above the starter on the bell housing should be 3 sets of numbers that will tell you about the tractor. may also be under the hood.

DS
 
   / Ford 3000???? Problems
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Fuel is two day old number 1 diesel I only saw two strings of number/ letters they were located just below the starter,I took the paint off and then repainted to read them. I will look above the starter in the morning.

Semper Fidelis - Freedom isn't free, to see the cost visit your local VA
 
   / Ford 3000???? Problems #6  
On the bell housing above and rearward of the starter.

You never know sometimes folk don't drain the old diesel.

Oh and yes on PS one way or the other, aftermarket may be the easiest.

Semper Fi
 
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   / Ford 3000???? Problems #7  
I don't think I would worry much about new tires and power steering until it runs better.
Compression test results will be interesting.
 
   / Ford 3000???? Problems #8  
You changed a lot of filters but I didn't see that you changed the air filter! You're down on power and you have black smoke. I'd change the air filter or at the very least inspect it for clogging. In fact, check the entire intake system to the engine for a restriction.
 
   / Ford 3000???? Problems #9  
Excellent point
 
   / Ford 3000???? Problems #10  
bad air restriction could caus ethe smoke and hard starts.. but.. I'm with rick.

so far i'm thinking poor compression.

the grey smoke could surely be unburnt fuel and not water.. and the balck smoke could be sooty fuel.

4m of cranking? my worst nag starts in under a minute and that's me cursing and waving arms alot.

do a comp test.. post back

won't hurt to service the air fitler.. however.. if oil bath.. i rarely see em plug up enough to prevent air flow... unless it has a birdsnest in it I guess.


post back what you find in the air cleaner.
 
 
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