Plowing with a NH TC35A

[CentralNC]

I am planning to have a garden next year, so I bought a used plow to turn over the soil this Fall. I was out messing with it today and could not get it to bite into the ground. I have spent a lot of time trying to get the plow into the soil, but it seems that my NH TC35A is not getting enough down force on the plow.

Does anyone have experience plowing with a NH CUT? Any using a TC35/40/45? Any tips or tricks would be appreciated.

 

[dave1949]

I am planning to have a garden next year, so I bought a used plow to turn over the soil this Fall. I was out messing with it today and could not get it to bite into the ground. I have spent a lot of time trying to get the plow into the soil, but it seems that my NH TC35A is not getting enough down force on the plow.

Does anyone have experience plowing with a NH CUT? Any using a TC35/40/45? Any tips or tricks would be appreciated.

I'm certainly no plowing resource, but the plow should pull itself into the ground, the 3pt hitch limits how deep it can go - I think :laughing:

If you restart this thread in "Related Topics" or "Rural Living", I bet you will get lots of answers.

You could also ask a moderator to move it.

 

[jinman]

Dave is right. The point of the plow has to dig in. If the ground is really hard, it may be hard to get penetration. I'd suggest adjusting the toplink shorter so the tip of the plow can break into the soil. Once you get the plow started, you'll find subsequent rows should be easier. If, after starting the row, the plow digs in too much, lengthen that toplink a bit to keep the plow at a shallower level. Also adjust your sidelink so that the soil curls over and a good furrow is left on the outside for the next row. Place your right side wheels down into that furrow on successive rows.

 

[WM75Guy]

I am planning to have a garden next year, so I bought a used plow to turn over the soil this Fall. I was out messing with it today and could not get it to bite into the ground. I have spent a lot of time trying to get the plow into the soil, but it seems that my NH TC35A is not getting enough down force on the plow.

Does anyone have experience plowing with a NH CUT? Any using a TC35/40/45? Any tips or tricks would be appreciated.

The 3PT hitch does not apply downforce, going down is a passive process. The weight of the implement causes the hitch to go down. The adjustment knob at the base of the seat only limits the rate or speed of drop.

 

[pacerron]

Dave is right. The point of the plow has to dig in. If the ground is really hard, it may be hard to get penetration. I'd suggest adjusting the toplink shorter so the tip of the plow can break into the soil. Once you get the plow started, you'll find subsequent rows should be easier. If, after starting the row, the plow digs in too much, lengthen that toplink a bit to keep the plow at a shallower level. Also adjust your sidelink so that the soil curls over and a good furrow is left on the outside for the next row. Place your right side wheels down into that furrow on successive rows.

Jim is correct.
In addition..
Set up your plow with it and the tractor setting on level ground.
Depending on your wheel width you may have to adjust your plow to the right and lock it there with your side sway pins.
This will effect the level, so check that again.
After you make your first pass you will need to adjust again with your right wheel sitting in the furrow especially if the plow has
multiple points.
If you have a DRAFT CONTROL lever on your tractor that is what you will use to control the depth while plowing and keep your
drive wheels from slipping. Set your raise/lower lever to the depth you want while making the first pass and leave it alone after that.
You may have a little adjustable stop that you can set and screw down to keep you from the urge to lower the plow further with that lever.
The draft control lever doesn't hold the plow down as such, but it adjusts how much resistance it takes to allow the plow to lift a little bit
to keep it from going too deep.
When you get to the end of the row use the draft control lever to lift the plow up away from the ground so you can turn and go to the other side
of your garden for a pass along that edge.
When you get it all plowed in between the sides you might want to go across the ends once to even them up.

It takes some practice and experience to get it right and a small garden doesn't give much of that for a few years.

You may notice the cross shaft on the plow where your lower links go on is higher on one side than the other.
If yours is, you may have to adjust the length of one of your tractor side link rods as well.
If you have a disc wheel in front of each plow point adjust them to cut the grass ahead of the plow if this
is a new spot.
Depending on your soil, you will need to learn when it is too wet or likewise too dry to plow.
When you get done the plow surface should be shiny smooth.
Smear some grease or oil on it to keep it from rusting before the next use.

 

[CentralNC]

Thanks guys for all the advice. I think our NC red clay soil is just hard as a rock and that first furrow is tough. I will try shortening that top link to see if I can get the plow to bite and then readjust after I get the right tires in the furrow. It was frustrating when I could not get it to dig into the soil. I might need to get a shorter top link. It will be this weekend before I get a chance to try again.

I had a choice of buying implements for my tractor and using the tractor for gardening or buying a Troybilt Horse tiller and using more labor. It made more sense to buy a few used attachments and garden with the tractor. I am hoping to plow the area for our garden and let it set over the Winter. I have my eye on a new King Kutter or County Line tiller for this Spring if the economy stays good. I do have a set of disc harrows and a good cultivator in the event that I can't justify a new tiller.

I would like for my boys to grow up pulling weeds and eating fresh vegetables like I did as a kid. As a young kid growing up in the mountains of NC, most of what we ate was either grown or raised on our farm. I think it is important that young Men know how food is grown and have the knowledge to feed their family. I appreciate all your help. I am learning a new way to garden and I hope to share it with my boys.

I am feeling more confident now that I can get the plow to work. Thanks to all!!!

 

[dave1949]

I've heard tales of how nasty that red clay can be down your way. If you are starting a new garden, you probably can't put too much mulch into clay soil. You might consider cutting up the surface with your harrow, sowing a fall green manure crop and plowing that down later when there might be more moisture in the soil? Just throwing thoughts out, I am not familiar with your weather patterns or how dry it is there now.

 

[EverythingAttachments]

Here's a 12 minute video we made showing how to make initial adjustments and use a plow on a compact tractor. The plow and video both were made right here in NC; home of the famous red clay! We also made a video testing our Everything Attachments compact plow when we introduced it. Happy plowing!

 

[Turbys_1700]

Best advice I can give you is wait until fall and plow wet...
That's right...
Plow when it is wet...
The plow will go into the ground...
Next spring you will be able to disc it up...
No clods at all...
Freezing does a number on it...

 

[CentralNC]

Turbys / Dave - I think your ideas about plowing later in the Fall are all good advice. I went out to the garden area this afternoon to put out corn for the deer. The ground where I had plowed about 2 inches deep was hard as a rock. I could hit it with my walking stick and it would "thump" and my stick would vibrate like I had hit concrete. I might try discing it now letting the rain soak in.

Ted - Your website is fantastic. Thanks for the link to the plowing section. I saw those American made items. I might have to drive over and look.

Thanks again to all.