300 hour service on Class II Boomer

[Mosey]

I think I'm reading the table on page 3-2 of the owners manual correctly, but thought I'd better double check with the rest of you folks before proceeding. Please let me know if I made a mistake in my statements below:

At the 250 hour service, I changed the engine oil and filter, so I don't need to do that at the 300 hour service. I'll need to do that at the 350 hour service, since it's every 100 hours.

At the 250 hour service, I changed the engine fuel filter, so I don't need to do anything with that at the 300 hour service. I'll need to clean it at the 350 hour service, since it's every 100 hours.

At the 250 hour service, I changed the engine outer primary air filter element, so I don't need to do anything with that at the 300 hour service. I'll need to clean it at the 350 hour service, since it's every 100 hours. I will probably go ahead and clean it anyway though.

So, what I do need to do is the following:

Everything in the "Every 300 Hours" box, which is to change the transmission oil, hydraulic filter, H.S.T. filter, front axle oil, and final reduction gear cases oil.

Everything in the "Every 50 Hours" box, which is to check the tires, clutch pedal (check adjustment), battery, power steering oil level, fan belt (check adjustment), front axle oil level (which I'll be changing anyway), final reduction gear cases oil level (which I'll be changing anyway), then greasing the clutch pedal, steering linkage, 3-point linkage, brake pedal, power steering cylinder, pedal shaft, drive cover shaft (drive shaft cover), pivot shaft, and H.S.T. pedal pivot, and then the last thing is to adjust the clutch pedal if necessary (which is probably fine since it's hardly ever used on a H.S.T.).

On page 3-13 of the manual, it says the capacity of the transmission is 7.5 gallons. Is that right? Has anyone done this?

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I read through your post with my manual in hand and you are right on the button with everything even the page numbers are correct.

On the tranny my manual says it takes 8.8 gals of fluid. My unit is newer than yours so that may be the difference.

 

[hazmat]

Danny,

I was under the impression that the "every 300 hours" service actually occured at the 350 mark because of the "first 50 hour" service. But now I'm confused. Might be worth a call to your dealer.

I'd rather service all the big things together - hyd oil & engine oil etc.

 

[Spencer]

Hazmat, I think you are confused. I do my oil changes on the 50's (50, 150, 250, etc.)

 

[Mosey]

hazmat - Only the trans and HST filters were changed at the 50 hour service, the hydraulic oil wasn't changed. I agree with your statement "I'd rather service all the big things together - hyd oil & engine oil etc. " It might be worth changing the engine oil 50 hours early just to get it in line with the hydraulic oil. It's too late for me now, since I did it yesterday, but I might do that next time.

 

[hazmat]

<font color="blue"> Hazmat, I think you are confused. I do my oil changes on the 50's (50, 150, 250, etc.) </font>

So do I - my bad logic was that I could do the 300 hour service at 350 - IE 300 hours AFTER the 50 hour service.

I like Mosey's Idea of bringing the oil change in 50 hours in order to keep the 100 hour stuff on the 00's instead of 50's.

Maybe some notes to myself in the owner's manual would keep everything clear. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[Mosey]

Now that I've done the hydraulic oil and front end oil change, here are some pointers for those who will be doing it.

1) You'll need to drain over 6 gal of oil from the trans from 3 plugs. The tractor doesn't sit quite high enough to get a 5 gal bucket under the drain plugs, so plan out in advance what to drain it into. I didn't realize this and didn't have large enough pans. A large shallow pan that will hold about 4 gal under each plug should do it. I didn't feel like making the hour round trip to town, so I used 2 smaller pans that hold about 1 1/2 gal each and did each drain plug one at a time. I put one pan under the rear plug and started draining it, then just before the pan got full, I swapped them (some oil got spilled on the floor) and while the second one was filling up, I emptied the first one into some 5 qt jugs. I barely got done before the second pan filled up. I ended up with kind of a mess. It would be better to make sure you have big enough drain pans! Once I got most of the oil out of the rear plug, very little came out of the other 2.

2) Jacking up the front end and taking the front tires off will make it a lot easier to drain the final reduction gear boxes.

3) The front axle oil drain plug is on the back of the differential housing on the left side. I put the pan under the hole and out to the left a little, expecting it to squirt off to the side. It did. But, much more than expected! It shot out over 2 feet! I ended up with quite a mess.

 

[kensfarm]

Danny.. I was wondering if you could tell how dirty/clean the hydrolic fluids were in the different sections you drained.. any signs of discolored fluid.. sludge.. metal flakes.. etc. If the fluids were clear.. could you tell if the consistency of the fluid was different then the new fluid you were putting in? Thankyou.. Ken

 

[Spencer]

Mosey, I have put off doing the front axle because I didn't have time when I did my 300 hour service. Did you by chance take any pictures? I like your idea of just taking the tires off, thanks for the tip. Any more tips on the front axle? When I did my 300 hour hydraulic change I used one of those storage bins like Rubbermaid makes. It was big enough to hold it all but is still fit under the tractor.

 

[Mosey]

kensfarm - The old oil was a bit tinted, but not really very dirty. I didn't see any metal flakes or anything. I couldn't tell any difference in consistency. I almost felt like I didn't even need to change it!