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  1. #1
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    cub 2160

    Default Ford 1910 Clutch Pedal Problem

    I have a mid 80s 1910 4wd with 1180 hours. It runs like a champ and is impressive for the size and weight. After a couple of months of moving soil, I hooked up my finish mower and discovered that the secondary clutch would not engage the pto. Your posts on this topic have been useful, thank you. What I discovered is that the secondary clutch linkage is not engaging. The primary clutch is working fine, but the link that pushes the second clutch open (rear axle) doesn't move with the foot pedal. I can't figure out what attaches the second lnkage to the first linkage and my manual doesn't address. Can someone share if the second clutch moves through a key of some sort or otherwise connects to the first clutch pedal roller with a weld or pin? At first glance it was a relief that just the linkage was not working, but after a cuople of hours of inspection.....i can't figure out how the two work together off the clutch pedal. Any help is appreciated.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Hooked_on_HP's Avatar
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    Coal City IL
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    Ford 1900 FWD Kubota F2100E

    Default Re: Ford 1910 Clutch Pedal Problem

    If I understand what you are saying, you move the lever for the pto and it engauges but the pto shaft doesn't turn. I think if the linkage was disconected the pto clutch would not disengauge. The opposite of the problem you have. Have you ever used the pto. You can go on Messick's | Dealer for New Holland, Case IH, kubota, Cub Cadet and More | Online Parts, Sales & Service. site and look at the parts break down of the clutch. I am thinking you either have a problem with the linkage that engauges the pto or the over run clutch.
    Bill

  3. #3
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    cub 2160

    Default Re: Ford 1910 Clutch Pedal Problem

    Bill, thanks for your post..I'm not describing correctly. When you depress the clutch pedal, the rod pulls forward to activate the engine to transmission clutch. There is a second rod assembly which should also engage to activate the pto clutch. that second rod (attaches to the same pivot tube as does the engine/transmission clutch assembly is not turning or moving in unison with the first. I thought there might be a key pin through it but there appears to be no holes for a key pin to insert through. I looked up the diagram you referenced (thank you) but can't locate a pivot key or screw that would cause the pto activation rod to move in unison. Make sense? Thanks again, Chuck

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Hooked_on_HP's Avatar
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    Ford 1900 FWD Kubota F2100E

    Default Re: Ford 1910 Clutch Pedal Problem

    So are you saying that when you try to engauge the pto it grinds.
    Bill

  5. #5
    Bronze Member
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    Case

    Default Re: Ford 1910 Clutch Pedal Problem

    Your tractor is equipped with a double clutch in the bell housing. If you depress the clutch half way you will disengage the transmission, if you depress the clutch all the way down you will disengage the pto.

    The double clutch works with a single link from the clutch pedal.

    To engage the PTO you must depress the clutch all the way down, engage the pto lever and then slowly let the clutch back out.

    The link that extends to the rear axle is your left brake.

    Mike
    Last edited by Spicer; 10-01-2012 at 07:41 PM.

  6. #6
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    cub 2160

    Default Re: Ford 1910 Clutch Pedal Problem

    Mike/Bill, thank you for your response. Yes, it grinds when I try and engage the PTO while running, no matter how far I depress the clutch, reduce engine speed, or try combinations of neutral/2wd4wd lever placements, etc. i've never owned a double clutch units but assumed (from these great posts) either the clutch was worn out or the disc was stuck (tractor sat for probably a year before I purchased). Since there is only one clutch activator off the pedal, then it's either an adjustment issue or the clutch is shot (seems fine otherwise). Now I'm just darn thankful to know what the second linkage is for, thank you.

    If it's out of adjustment, which way takes the play out, moving the nut to the end of the bolt, or higher on the threads? Thank you again for all the help.
    Last edited by claimsman; 10-01-2012 at 09:53 PM.

  7. #7
    Bronze Member
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    Case

    Default Re: Ford 1910 Clutch Pedal Problem

    If you search for clutch adjustment in this forum you will find the procedures necessary. It is not simply a linkage adjustment; it is also a clutch adjustment.

    It may be money well spent to have a professional look at it.


    Mike
    Last edited by Spicer; 10-01-2012 at 10:25 PM.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Ford 1910 Clutch Pedal Problem

    Mike, i appreciate the advise...hate to admit defeat when I can't figure things out.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Hooked_on_HP's Avatar
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    Default Re: Ford 1910 Clutch Pedal Problem

    If it grinds then the clutch disc is stuck or out of adjustment. I would by pass the pto safety switch and attach a bush hog or tiller or somthing the will put a heavy load on the pto. Start the tractor with the pto engauged and bring it up the 540 rpm's and push the clutch pedal all the way down and put a load on what ever implement you have attached. this will usually unstick it.How much free play do you have on your clutch pedal. You should have about 1"
    Bill

  10. #10
    Bronze Member
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    Satoh 650G

    Default Re: Ford 1910 Clutch Pedal Problem

    Just a quick follow up from 2012..........
    so my clutch pedal disengages the tranny with about a 6 inch push, and disengages the PTO with a 24 inch push.......not sure if this is normal, or if I could shorten the distance,......say 6 inches and 12 inches......is that a clutch adjustment?

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