RobertN
Super Member
Would be kinda fun to go play. Wonder how far a TC40 could make it with no attachments and the loader off... SuperSteer might help, but lack of flex and suspension might make things difficult.
TC35D 4WD Noise
- Thread starter RDrancher
- Start date
RobertN
Super Member
Sorry, can't help more; I saw mine apart while waiting for parts but did not see the work being done.
Once the final drives are off, it looks to be like any other diff. It should not bee too bad, since you have expierience with building an axle setup.
Once the final drives are off, it looks to be like any other diff. It should not bee too bad, since you have expierience with building an axle setup.
OP
RDrancher
Veteran Member
Wow did I luck out!
I weighed my time lost working versus getting the tractor repaired and decided to take it to the dealer to determine what had broken. Turns out that it WAS a spun front coupling that connects the driveshaft from the drop box to the front pinion. I just didn't investigate far enough. The bang I heard was most likely the pin breaking that holds it in place. Since I noticed that something was wrong right away, very little damage was done to the splines. The service manager said that the new coupling went on nice and tight. Total cost of the repair $183.99, and $105 of that was labor. And to think...I was going to start by dropping the final drives. Now THAT would have been a major mistake!
Edit: Just for future reference, it was #39.1 and the associated pin on the diagram.
I weighed my time lost working versus getting the tractor repaired and decided to take it to the dealer to determine what had broken. Turns out that it WAS a spun front coupling that connects the driveshaft from the drop box to the front pinion. I just didn't investigate far enough. The bang I heard was most likely the pin breaking that holds it in place. Since I noticed that something was wrong right away, very little damage was done to the splines. The service manager said that the new coupling went on nice and tight. Total cost of the repair $183.99, and $105 of that was labor. And to think...I was going to start by dropping the final drives. Now THAT would have been a major mistake!
Edit: Just for future reference, it was #39.1 and the associated pin on the diagram.
Last edited:
jinman
Rest in Peace
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- NHTC45D, NH LB75B, Ford Jubilee
Woohoo! This time you got the bear.:thumbsup:
Hooked_on_HP
Veteran Member
I realy hope this solves your problem. However I have a bad feeling that you have somthing else wrong and that it locked up and caused the coupler to break. I hope I am wrong.
Bill
Bill
OP
RDrancher
Veteran Member
Here's an update to this topic.
After a year of hard work on the coupler fix, it has happened again. Now that I know what the sound of a spinning coupler is, I ordered another coupler and and pin, so I could repair it myself.
I took it out of 4wd immediately after hearing the sound, so I was pretty surprised to see that the splines on the pinion are almost non-existent. The splines on the inside of the coupler were worn down, apparently to the point that they couldn't hold onto what was left of the pinion splines. The pin was still in place, but had split into two pieces lengthwise. After actually working on this myself, I can see that the pin is not a shear pin at all. The pin is driven in the space between the end of the pinion and driveline shafts to keep the coupler from sliding up on the driveline splines and disconnecting from the pinion splines.
We'll see how long the repair lasts this time around, but I'll obviously need a new pinion in the future. Since tractors are driven at such low speeds, I'm hoping that it's not a requirement to purchase the pinion gear along with a matching ring gear. We shall see.
After a year of hard work on the coupler fix, it has happened again. Now that I know what the sound of a spinning coupler is, I ordered another coupler and and pin, so I could repair it myself.
I took it out of 4wd immediately after hearing the sound, so I was pretty surprised to see that the splines on the pinion are almost non-existent. The splines on the inside of the coupler were worn down, apparently to the point that they couldn't hold onto what was left of the pinion splines. The pin was still in place, but had split into two pieces lengthwise. After actually working on this myself, I can see that the pin is not a shear pin at all. The pin is driven in the space between the end of the pinion and driveline shafts to keep the coupler from sliding up on the driveline splines and disconnecting from the pinion splines.
We'll see how long the repair lasts this time around, but I'll obviously need a new pinion in the future. Since tractors are driven at such low speeds, I'm hoping that it's not a requirement to purchase the pinion gear along with a matching ring gear. We shall see.