Block and HST Hyd oil preheaters, found and invented, $48

[TMB1320]

Block and HST Hyd oil preheaters, found and invented, $48
The NAPA Pn# 605-3032 is the 40mm 400 watt, low profile
that fits the Shibaura 1.3 Litre 3 cylinder diesel. * $33

Installed sweet. *Got new prestone 60/40 dehumidifier water.*
Bonus. *What to do for the hydraulic oil? *This one I'm making up as I go along and could use some help. * For starters, is the tank return *line at the diverter manifold block available for a source oil when the tractor is not running. *This is easy to check but I thought I'd ask on here as see
If anyone knows if it is open to atmosphere somewhere, as in returning to tank above surface of nominal oil level? *

The $15 drillpump draws oil from the return line, and sends it though a loose wrap coil (copper tube make for good heat exchanger). The coil is in *an empty paint can perhaps. *A small kitchen coffee urn would work maybe. *Submerge the coil in glycol/water and bring it up to say 20°C, or as hot as*the components can stand. From the heat source can the now reinforced vinal tube goes on to*wrap around the outlet pipe from the HST charge pump(looks about 9/16" diameter od) and about 18" long. * From there the route continues on to wrap the HST Hyd filter. * A soup can the right size ought to *encase the wrap and filter, if done right should slip off filter for maintenance by removing *a 4" hose clamp. *The tube then terminates in*the reservoir tank filler hole rubber cap. *

I'm also entertaining using 7 feet of house eave heater to wrap the pipe and filter instead of the tube. It would definitely be easy to do the pipe wrap in close confines*of the charge pump outlet. * Would be a giggle*if the drill current draw would be the *correct ballast voltage of that length of eave heater wire. **
A longer length might even handle all the heating including the heat exchange can. * *Stuck in the woods? *No problem. The tube wrap*
paint can model gets heated on open fire while you stay warm turning the "hand crank"*on the pump.

Does anyone know if the tank return is a good oil source?
Hate to have to tee into one of *the Hyd pump(s)feeder line.

[Dr Dave]

Magnetic heater, or find a heater that will screw into hydralic drain plug hole?

Dave

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Neither the mag heater nor the drain hole heater does nothing to prevent the dreaded excessive pressure
blowing out the filter o-ring. The special filter is designed to bypass the filter media when it occurs. So now unfiltered oil is supplied to the HST. This would be most days from December to February. I would still want to preheat the filter and the feed to it. Magnetic and pad heaters likely work for a tank reservoir but having a tough time getting my head around the mass of metal that must heat before the oil
sees any benefit. A drain hole heater sounds like an adequate solution, however, I've been reading on here (TBN) since mid August, and that's the first time I've heard of such a heater. Without knowing
internal works of the diff, I would be hesitate inserting anything into the works, unless it was a "made for"
unit.

[jinman]

Neither the mag heater nor the drain hole heater does nothing to prevent the dreaded excessive pressure
blowing out the filter o-ring.

The $15 drillpump draws oil from the return line, and sends it though a loose wrap coil (copper tube make for good heat exchanger). The coil is in *an empty paint can perhaps. *A small kitchen coffee urn would work maybe. *Submerge the coil in glycol/water and bring it up to say 20ï½°C, or as hot as*the components can stand. From the heat source can the now reinforced vinal tube goes on to*wrap around the outlet pipe from the HST charge pump(looks about 9/16" diameter od) and about 18" long. * From there the route continues on to wrap the HST Hyd filter. * A soup can the right size ought to *encase the wrap and filter, if done right should slip off filter for maintenance by removing *a 4" hose clamp. *The tube then terminates in*the reservoir tank filler hole rubber cap. *

In my opinion, blowing out the filter o-ring is going to be the least of your worries if you build the rig you described. The heater below should work perfectly to keep the engine and transmission oil warm (get one for each). Just get the ruggedized HST filter if blow-out ever becomes a problem.

From Northern Tool at $55.

[aczlan]

If you want to preheat the filter, try a heating mat such as Kat's 24150 150 Watt 4"x 5" Universal Hot Pad Heater : Amazon.com : Automotive on the filter. That should keep it toasty warm without risking dumping your hydraulic fluid all over the ground and a hose breaks.
If you also get a pair of magnetic heaters such as Jinman posted (or one like Kat's 1153 Handi-Heat 200 Watt Magnetic Heater : Amazon.com : Automotive) you could have your oil, hydraulic fluid and hydraulic filter all preheated.

Aaron Z

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Thanks for the input. I still don't see how half an hour of a mag heat is going to do anything for the
18" or so of frozen oil in the feed line to the HST filter. I'll give you the accumulated heat in the filter maybe enough warmth to raise the slug of frozen oil enough to get it over the hump til the warmed oil arrives. It's the "maybe" uncertainty that has me questioning the whole stick on heater approach.
Someone posted a link to a company specializing in commercial/industrial type preheaters. Hotspot?
They didn't list cost but it sure looked out of my league. I'm surprised no one has done a backyard version. I'm I alone? Jinman sees problems with this setup. Care to elaborate. TY

[aczlan]

Thanks for the input. I still don't see how half an hour of a mag heat is going to do anything for the 18" or so of frozen oil in the feed line to the HST filter.

Frozen? You are in the 1000 islands region right? Across Lake Ontario from me? If so, your oil wont get cold enough to freeze solid. Chilled/sluggish? Yes. Frozen solid/slushy? No.
Throwing a 200-300 watt magnetic heater on a timer so that it runs for 2-4 hours before you need the tractor and putting up a windblock to keep the worst of the wind off the tractor (or perhaps a blanket then a tarp) should get the lower transmission warm to the touch with much less risk of breaking something or having a oil spill like could happen with the external coil.

Aaron Z

[jinman]

TY, NH sells an oil with even better winter specs than Multi-G 134D. It's called F200. The problem with some filters is thick, sluggish oil that raises the pressure inside the filter and can blow the seal. I can count on one hand the number of people I know who have reported that problem on TBN. Have you actually experienced the problem? I'm in the sunny south, so I don't see really cold weather.

The problem I have with your method is that you are mixing a drill pump with a coil inside a paint can and a coffee pot heater. None of those items are UL approved for flammable oil and there is definitely the possibility of runaway heating or leaks. Even if it works perfectly, it'll be a hassle and a big mess. I just think a couple of 400 watt heaters and a blanket or windbreak as Aaron suggested will be more convenient and pose less hazards. Heck, the F200 oil might do the job all by itself.

[barbqranch]

And run the extension cord for the heater through your steering wheel so you don't drive off with it plugged in!

[aczlan]

And run the extension cord for the heater through your steering wheel so you don't drive off with it plugged in!

Excellent point. I do that with the charging cords for my inlaws golf cart or with the charger when charging a battery. Less problems that way.

Aaron Z