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  1. #21
    Veteran Member Hooked_on_HP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    2,043
    Location
    Coal City IL
    Tractor
    Ford 1900 FWD Kubota F2100E

    Default Re: 1700 Resurrection

    As JC stated, start with the high dollar repairs first. You will be suprized how many parts you can find at places other than N/H. You can go on N/H site and get the part # and then Google it. Good luck and keep us posted.
    Bill

  2. #22
    New Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    18
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Tractor
    1979 Ford 1700

    Default Re: 1700 Resurrection

    I've compared the pricing on items I've already gotten and by the time freight is included the dealer is cheaper, and only a day or two wait. I'm really impressed with this parts dept, hands down one of the best I've ever worked with over years of cars, 4 wheelers and jet skis. Huge plus is the machine shop is half a mile down the road. Since the tractor is hardly close to civilization, I'm trying to get all my ducks in a row to knock it all out at once. Once I get home this evening I've got a question about alternator wiring, don't have my notes with me. No knocking me when I get around to pics, I'll basically be doing all this in the dirt

  3. #23
    Elite Member JC-jetro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    3,144
    Location
    Kansas
    Tractor
    Ford 1700, Kubota MX-4700

    Default Re: 1700 Resurrection

    Quote Originally Posted by RedDirtDaddy View Post
    , I'll basically be doing all this in the dirt
    RedDirtDaddy,

    Having a flat surface (concrete) to split tractor is very important as front and rear will bind somewhere if grade is not level, need to be able to slide the front forward in direct line is also very important. Being able to join both ends after clutch replacement is very important considering proper alignment of the splined input shaft. You also need clean work surface to overhaul the pump. it seems very difficult to keep the contamination in check working on dirt. Do you have a roof above where you are doing the work? Good luck, It is certainly a doable project but a barn, with cement floor and engine hoist , overhead gantry would certainly make it easier.

    I always got a invisible guy that throws a monkey wrench in everything I do, I hope you "don't" get him to visit you.

    Jc,
    Last edited by JC-jetro; 12-09-2012 at 09:32 PM. Reason: missing word
    Ford 1700, 2wd.
    Kubota MX-4700DT, Gear transmission with LA 884 loader, Q/A and HD bucket.
    60" Woods Rotary Cutter, home made (3-pt boom and a Row Hipper) ,King Kutter( 5 ft Tiller,Middle Buster,Single Row Cultivator,Carry-all, 5 ft blade, 6 ft Landscaping Rake ,30" Dirt Scoop and a 4'x4' Drag Harrow)

  4. #24
    New Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    18
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Tractor
    1979 Ford 1700

    Default Re: 1700 Resurrection

    Quote Originally Posted by JC-jetro View Post
    RedDirtDaddy,

    Having a flat surface (concrete) to split tractor is very important as front and rear will bind somewhere if grade is not level, need to be able to slide the front forward in direct line is also very important. Being able to join both ends after clutch replacement is very important considering proper alignment of the splined input shaft. You also need clean work surface to overhaul the pump. it seems very difficult to keep the contamination in check working on dirt. Do you have a roof above where you are doing the work? Good luck, It is certainly a doable project but a barn, with cement floor and engine hoist , overhead gantry would certainly make it easier.

    I always got a invisible guy that throws a monkey wrench in everything I do, I hope you get him to visit you.

    Jc,
    Understand completely, but have done WAY more than anyone's fair share of wrenching in the dirt. Where there's a will, there's a way!

  5. #25
    Gold Member jones6780's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    295
    Location
    Lizella, Ga.
    Tractor
    1700 4wheel drive, Yazoo/Kees Max2 Zero Turn

    Default Re: 1700 Resurrection

    I did my split in the dirt, it was about level. One thing to look out for is to put a wedge on both sides of the front axle pivot to prevent the engine from rolling over to the side.

    Russell

  6. #26
    New Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    18
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Tractor
    1979 Ford 1700

    Default Re: 1700 Resurrection

    Will do! Any other tips?

    Quote Originally Posted by jones6780 View Post
    I did my split in the dirt, it was about level. One thing to look out for is to put a wedge on both sides of the front axle pivot to prevent the engine from rolling over to the side.

    Russell

  7. #27
    New Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    18
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Tractor
    1979 Ford 1700

    Default Re: 1700 Resurrection

    Ok, so the alternator currently on the tractor has terminals labeled from left to right; E, S, L, B. S and B are the connector, with black wire going from S to L, and S having a red wire also going to B. B also has a yellow wire going to the starter solenoid, and a light green wire going to the voltage regulator. Terminal E has nothing connected and a dark green wire, that goes back to the voltage regulator, just dangling.

    I do know the alternator is not currently charging, and the battery light is on. I don't want to make an assumption, but would the dark green wire just connect to terminal E?

  8. #28
    Elite Member JC-jetro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    3,144
    Location
    Kansas
    Tractor
    Ford 1700, Kubota MX-4700

    Default Re: 1700 Resurrection

    Quote Originally Posted by RedDirtDaddy View Post
    Ok, so the alternator currently on the tractor has terminals labeled from left to right; E, S, L, B. S and B are the connector, with black wire going from S to L, and S having a red wire also going to B. B also has a yellow wire going to the starter solenoid, and a light green wire going to the voltage regulator. Terminal E has nothing connected and a dark green wire, that goes back to the voltage regulator, just dangling.

    I do know the alternator is not currently charging, and the battery light is on. I don't want to make an assumption, but would the dark green wire just connect to terminal E?
    Here you go. This is the way mine is.

    JC,



    Ford 1700, 2wd.
    Kubota MX-4700DT, Gear transmission with LA 884 loader, Q/A and HD bucket.
    60" Woods Rotary Cutter, home made (3-pt boom and a Row Hipper) ,King Kutter( 5 ft Tiller,Middle Buster,Single Row Cultivator,Carry-all, 5 ft blade, 6 ft Landscaping Rake ,30" Dirt Scoop and a 4'x4' Drag Harrow)

  9. #29
    New Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    18
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Tractor
    1979 Ford 1700

    Default Re: 1700 Resurrection

    Yeah, mine isn't anything like that. Any idea of the outputs of each of those terminals?

  10. #30
    Elite Member JC-jetro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    3,144
    Location
    Kansas
    Tractor
    Ford 1700, Kubota MX-4700

    Default Re: 1700 Resurrection

    Quote Originally Posted by RedDirtDaddy View Post
    Yeah, mine isn't anything like that. Any idea of the outputs of each of those terminals?
    My cheesy IT FO-44 reports all 1700s have Hitachi alt rather than Nippon Denso, so I don't know why yours is not the same. I know terminal A with thick yellow cable is the output F is for Field terminal. F(W/B), N(Y) and E(B) go to regulator. Look at the attached pages that might shed some light for you. Have not had any issues with my alt to dig in to it further.

    JC,
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Ford 1700, 2wd.
    Kubota MX-4700DT, Gear transmission with LA 884 loader, Q/A and HD bucket.
    60" Woods Rotary Cutter, home made (3-pt boom and a Row Hipper) ,King Kutter( 5 ft Tiller,Middle Buster,Single Row Cultivator,Carry-all, 5 ft blade, 6 ft Landscaping Rake ,30" Dirt Scoop and a 4'x4' Drag Harrow)

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