Another TC35D No Start...Fuel?

[RDrancher]

I posted yesterday in an ignition thread, but that didn't fix it so I'll do the complete rundown here.

1. Yesterday, engine quit running. Shift to neutral and it fires right back up, but dies within a few feet. This repeats a few more times. Initially it seemed like a fuel problem, so I changed the fuel filter (very gunked up.) I filled the bowl by turning on the petcock and then reinstalled the filter and bowl. There was good flow from the fuel line.

2. Ir started right back up (a little lumpy lope) then shuts off again. While trying to restart I notice that the ignition doesn't always click to engage the starter. Now I'm thinking...great...maybe it wasn't fuel after all. I also notice that there is a faint electrical smell.

3. Call the dealer and tech says it is most likely the ignition switch, so I went and picked one up.

4. This morning after installing the switch it fired right up for a couple of seconds, then died. Trying to restart and the same thing happens with the on / off again ignition symptom, once. Then the ignition works normal, but its now just cranking with no sign of firing.

5. Just to be sure, I checked all of the fuses and removed and recrimped my seat switch bypass.

6. After hooking up the battery to my truck, I cracked the bleed screw and cranked until no bubbles were showing. Still cranking with no start.

7. I cracked the lines at the injectors and have no fuel there whatsoever. I even removed them and have nothing coming out of the lines, period.

Where now?

The tractor is at a customers property, so I will take all of the suggestions I can get before I go back there tomorrow.

 

[jinman]

Check the fuel cutoff solenoid on the back of the injector pump. It's about 1" in diameter and about 2-1/2" long with a single spade connector on the rear. It's grounded through the body screwed into the injector pump. Just remove the spade and unscrew the solenoid. When it is out, hook the spade back and turn on the key to see if the plunger retracts. Make sure it is not getting hot. If the plunger does not retract with 12 vdc applied to the solenoid, it is open. If it doesn't retract when the key is turned on, something is wrong with the seat switch circuit or maybe a faulty operator safety module. Now that you've replaced the switch, it's likely not the source of your problem.

BTW: You can start the engine with the solenoid removed, but you'll have to screw it in to kill the engine. I just think this sounds like the solenoid going bad as this is what happened when mine went. The solenoid gets power through fuse #2, but if you've replaced the fuse with a self-resetting circuit breaker, it won't blow like a fuse to tell you something is wrong. It will open and then reset after a few seconds. Sound familiar? That's kinda the way you described how your tractor was acting.

 

[RDrancher]

Jim, that sounds VERY familiar. My tractor does have the circuit breaker (slot #2 from the left?)

And...is the operator safety module the black square box hanging from a few wires near the bottom of the steering column?

 

[DieselMonk]

I would suggest the same thing that Jinman already said.

 

[jinman]

And...is the operator safety module the black square box hanging from a few wires near the bottom of the steering column?

Yep, that's it. It is in the harness rather than being mounted on the relay assy. I doubt it is causing your problem, but you never know. All that module does is take an input from the seat switch and/or the parking brake. It's only output is to the fuel solenoid. If the seat switch is in doubt, put the range lever to neutral and pull up on the parking brake handle till the light illuminates on the dash. If the tractor still won't start when the engine turns over, then it's probably the fuel solenoid. They don't fail often, but I had one go bad and there have been a couple others reported in this forum.

 

[RDrancher]

I can't thank you enough Jim!

When I pulled off the spade connector I noticed right away that the plastic was melted and a bit of the wire bare. The solenoid is cracked at the spade connection too. The plunger did not retract with power. She fired right up, so I got it on the trailer and back home. McMasters has a new solenoid with my name on it for Monday morning pickup. I'll replace the connector while I'm at it.

One again...thank you! :thumbsup:

 

[jinman]

I love it when a plan comes together. :thumbsup:

 

[Sparky51]

Guys,

found this thread on TBN. I seem to have a bad operator safety module. Did all of the things recommended here. I can remove the safety module and jumper the two black (ground) leads and she fires right up. Nothing else works. Anyone here have a similar issue.

Thanks

Sparky Hardeman