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  1. #11
    Elite Member dodge man's Avatar
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    West central Illinois
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    Kubota BX2350

    Default Re: Ford 1710 broke water pump stud

    I have had easy outs work, but I always feel like they are about to break when the bolt finally comes out. A last resort is a Helicoil kit. This drills out the hole larger than factory, then stainless steel thread inserts are installed and you are back to the factory bolt size.
    Dave,
    BX2350

  2. #12
    Elite Member The kid's Avatar
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    Tennessee Vols Country
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    My tractor is an old M... F... and red too.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JC-jetro View Post
    I have done well with extractors but certainly a lot more precision work is involved to avoid damaging the threads you're trying to save. At times drilling the whole thing out and re tapping bigger hole might become necessary.

    JC,
    The size of the bolt in question it shouldn't be a problem centering the drill. If he's lucky there will be some bolt above the surface applied heat along with some vise grips should remove it without drilling. That water pump housing is not going to be cheap even at salvage prices.

    While working on mine I had to use an extractor on two different sized bolts. A soaking of PB Blaster and later put a torch to it should twist right out. Water pump bolts are notorious for rusting up.

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  3. #13
    Gold Member the old grind's Avatar
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    Jul 2012
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    435
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    Mid-Michigan
    Tractor
    NH T-1520 HST, JD 5210 2WD, Terramite T5C, Ford 1520 (sold), JD 1520 (sold)

    Default Re: Ford 1710 broke water pump stud

    Not necessarily instruction without a pic, just some things to think about if you haven't BTDT as many of us have:

    If you can get the pump off ok leave as much of each stud there to grab onto after heating or for welding on a nut. Extractors are the next step if you get down to flush. I've had better luck with square-ish straight fluted ones than the spiral Easy-Outs. They seem to grip better vs carving a tapered hole, esp if they cant off-center when reefed on. Chances are such studs/bolts will be 8.9 grade and can be dealt with as one would a US Grade 5.

    After soaking in Kroil, Gibbs, etc and/or heating be sure to rap the stud a few times as if driving a nail to shake things up. When doing that, or if you're heating a protruding remainder, grind minimal flats or at least get it to a bit of an oval shape before you vice-grip it or the jaws may just whittle the nub smaller. Twist gently in & out if possible to loosen things up, too. When the guys say 'lotsa' heat you'd do well to let surrounding metal warm up quite a bit, too ... er short of melting anything like dripping wax. If under-done you'd only heat the protruding end and not the thread deeper inside where it does the most good.

    If you end up drilling 'cuz there's nothing sticking out, go fairly big whatever you plan to do from there. I'd use a 4mm drill for a 6mm bolt, 6mm drill for an 8mm bolt, etc. Square the end up and center punch to get going in good position & start with a 'stub-length' or center drill vs std or 'jobber' length. Use pressure to slow the drill down & wet it with ATF or similar. Watch you chips to see that you are cutting ok.

    Put up that pic for us to get the best help. IMO you dare not think of this as an easy fix that might be difficult, but rather as a tough one that might go easily. Hopefully the radiator, etc won't be in the way. If so, I'd be willing to pull it to really get at the problem....

  4. #14
    New Member
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    Feb 2013
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    East, Tx
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    Ford 1710

    Default Re: Ford 1710 broke water pump stud

    Thanks everybody, the bolts I have broken go through the front timing cover into the block. I need to remove the timing cover to access the broken bolts, I have a shop repair manual ordered, Im having trouble removing the timing cover, thanks

  5. #15
    Epic Contributor Soundguy's Avatar
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    Central florida
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    ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC

    Default Re: Ford 1710 broke water pump stud

    why remove the cover. you can still drill the bolts with the cover in place.

    use a center punch to mark a center spot to start drilling.

    if they are at a weird angle.. use a metal bur or a snadstone / die grinder and hold it at a spot to make a dimple to strat drilling at.

    then do as others sugested. get a good set of lefties.

    I have also used carbide bits.

    I don't love extrators.. but have a lil more respect for them after the last few years. I pulled a wreck home and literally drilled and extraceted, welde dout and re tapped a couple hundred holes by the time the project was done.

    every major piece on that tractor had broken fasteners.. or they were stripepd or cross threaded.

    lefty.. or carbide.. stay out of parrent.. drill out to max then use the ez out.. IE.. use the largest possible.

    chase the threads and go.

    if no ez out drill till you are just at parent.. then us ea pick to peel the threads out.

  6. #16
    Gold Member jones6780's Avatar
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    Lizella, Ga.
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    1700 4wheel drive

    Default Re: Ford 1710 broke water pump stud

    The diagram of the timing cover shows the cover is at least 2" thick and the water pump attaches with studs that go through to the block. If it were me I would remove the timing cover to access the broken stud in the block.

    Russell

  7. #17
    Elite Member JC-jetro's Avatar
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    Jul 2006
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    Kansas
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    Ford 1700, Kubota MX-4700

    Default Re: Ford 1710 broke water pump stud

    I like it. Again, a picture will be telling. Taking cover off would not be a deal breaker and damaged stud can be grabbed by a nice beefy vise-grip to turn. That would eliminate dorking up the block also.

    JC,


    Quote Originally Posted by jones6780 View Post
    The diagram of the timing cover shows the cover is at least 2" thick and the water pump attaches with studs that go through to the block. If it were me I would remove the timing cover to access the broken stud in the block.

    Russell
    Ford 1700, 2wd.
    Kubota MX-4700DT, Gear transmission with LA 884 loader, Q/A and HD bucket.
    60" Woods Rotary Cutter, home made (3-pt boom and a Row Hipper) ,King Kutter( 5 ft Tiller,Middle Buster,Single Row Cultivator,Carry-all, 5 ft blade, 6 ft Landscaping Rake ,30" Dirt Scoop and a 4'x4' Drag Harrow)

  8. #18
    Veteran Member chopped's Avatar
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    New England yankeee

    Default Re: Ford 1710 broke water pump stud

    I agree and it a fair amount of the stud was through the casing then chances are that it will turn from the socket easier.
    It sort of 'twisted' off
    Quote Originally Posted by JC-jetro View Post
    I like it. Again, a picture will be telling. Taking cover off would not be a deal breaker and damaged stud can be grabbed by a nice beefy vise-grip to turn. That would eliminate dorking up the block also.

    JC,
    Last edited by chopped; 02-08-2013 at 03:15 PM. Reason: doofisism

  9. #19
    New Member
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    Feb 2013
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    Location
    East, Tx
    Tractor
    Ford 1710

    Default Re: Ford 1710 broke water pump stud

    I've gotten all the bolts out of the timing cover, harmonic balancer is removed, the cover just seems to be sticking on something on the side that the hydrolic pump is on. I can see the broken studs so hopefully tomorrow or the next day I will get the front cover off and get some heat on those broken bolts. Thanks agin everybody

  10. #20
    Elite Member JC-jetro's Avatar
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    Kansas
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    Ford 1700, Kubota MX-4700

    Default Re: Ford 1710 broke water pump stud

    On mine (1700) , hyd pump need to come off with the two banjo connection before timing cover can be taken off. Looked at NH website and it looks about the same on 1710.

    JC,


    Quote Originally Posted by Smittysfordtractor View Post
    I've gotten all the bolts out of the timing cover, harmonic balancer is removed, the cover just seems to be sticking on something on the side that the hydrolic pump is on. I can see the broken studs so hopefully tomorrow or the next day I will get the front cover off and get some heat on those broken bolts. Thanks agin everybody
    Ford 1700, 2wd.
    Kubota MX-4700DT, Gear transmission with LA 884 loader, Q/A and HD bucket.
    60" Woods Rotary Cutter, home made (3-pt boom and a Row Hipper) ,King Kutter( 5 ft Tiller,Middle Buster,Single Row Cultivator,Carry-all, 5 ft blade, 6 ft Landscaping Rake ,30" Dirt Scoop and a 4'x4' Drag Harrow)

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