Ford 555D won't crank when cold

[JPB887]

New to the site so I apologize if this topic has come up before.
I have a 1992 Ford 555D that will not crank when cold (less than 45-50 degrees). Instrument panel lights come on, lights/flashers work. Took battery out and had it tested and it's OK. When temp is OK it starts OK. When cold it either won't crank, or will start and die immediately once or twice and then won't crank at all. Once it warms up later the same day it will start just fine. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

 

[JC-jetro]

Welcome to TBN Blue,


Have you ever measured voltage to the starter solenoid when it decides not to turn on in cool temp, (45-50) is hardly cold. If it turn on and then die it might be fuel related. have you checked your glow plug and the relay that runs it? What type of diagnostic have you done so far?

JC,

 

[chieff]

Are you using the glow plugs? There should be a switch on the instrument panel for the glow plugs. The switch has to be held down and will return itself when not depressed. Depending on the temp you may need to hold it for 15 seconds or so. The engine should start good then. If not you may need to replace the glow plugs. I had a 655 and it was one of the best backhoes I have ever used.

 

[JPB887]

Are you using the glow plugs? There should be a switch on the instrument panel for the glow plugs. The switch has to be held down and will return itself when not depressed. Depending on the temp you may need to hold it for 15 seconds or so. The engine should start good then. If not you may need to replace the glow plugs. I had a 655 and it was one of the best backhoes I have ever used.

Thanks for the input.
Unfortunately the glow plug switch does not have any effect on outcome. Nothing seems to happen at the solenoid/starter point. Have not put a meter on it yet but I guess that is the next step.
I have also read some other threads that mention using a jumper battery to attach to the starter directly. Not sure if that would make sense to try in this situation or not.

 

[JPB887]

Thanks for the reply!
Have not put a meter on it yet but will plan on doing that next. Was hoping it would be something simple but might be out of luck. I had it serviced by the New Holland dealer 4 years ago when I bought it and they mentioned that they had replaced the neutral wire between the starter and ignition because at that point I was having trouble starting it regardless of the temp. Has worked fine since then until 2 months ago. Trying to avoid taking it back there due to the $$$.

 

[JC-jetro]

JPb887,

you do want to find the root cause of it and that only happens by eliminate the possibilities one by. You can run the starter just by itself remotely but need to consider that you are bypassing all safeties and that is not a safe thing to do. You might jump it to see if starter spins or as in emergency situation to get the rig up and running and to the barn. Why do you mean by Neutral wire? You have just hot and ground wire. you don't have a separate neutral wire as a return path. if you have rust build up where the ground wire is connected to chassis or to the starter then you might experience lower amp at the choke point causing hard start. When you push the glow plug switch then get a test light between glow plug bus bar and the ground to see if light comes on. That is the way to find if you have juice to glow plug on demand. Even if you get juice on the glow plug there is still an outside chance that heater element in glow plug has become defective, in that can you need to pull it out to see if it actually gets hot. Do you know if you have kill solenoid for the fuel system. They are normally closed and only open if a sensing circuit is satisfied. You need to break it down to smaller components and check them one by one. $$$$ can only be avoided by getting yourself more familiar with your rig and do it by yourself be it at a a slow pace.

JC,

 

[JPB887]

Thanks for the more detailed info. You are indeed correct about the neutral wire I mentioned--my mistake. I went back to look at the invoice from that service call and it said they replaced a wire from the ignition to the starter and a bad neutral safety switch (not sure if that was on the gearshift or the loader shifter since there is a button on both (but maybe they both feed into one switch??).
Today it was in the mid 30s and it started right up without any hitches at all. That's what makes this rather maddening since it's not consistent. I don't have a whole lot of mechanical background but am learning as I go and appreciate all of the feedback on the site. I have a local guy that has been doing grading and roadbuilding all his life and he is going to come up this week to take a look. I just hope it won't start when he is here so he can actually see the problem.

 

[JC-jetro]

That kind of eliminated having issue with fuel (pumping, injectors) which is a very positive avoiding high cost. I'm not particularly familiar with your rig but there are many similarities for Operator Presence Safeties amongst all makes and models. On most it is there is a switch (Neutral Safety) that is "normally open" and upon pressing the clutch pedal it completes the circuit and then you can crank. The purpose is t make sure tractor would not jump in gear when you try to start.This circuit might also be in series with another switch "normally open" that is called seat safety. The purpose of this things are to kill the tractor if you pass out and fallout of your seat or other unforeseen things happen. At any case they are not very difficult or expensive at all to diagnose and fix. Work Shop Manual or even a IT repair manual along with information on NH website should be more than ample to help you to diagnose. A set of cheap HF test light, a voltmeter and some alligator tipped jumper cable all under $20 will give you almost all you need plus some basic hand tools to tackle many problems.

JC,

Thanks for the more detailed info. You are indeed correct about the neutral wire I mentioned--my mistake. I went back to look at the invoice from that service call and it said they replaced a wire from the ignition to the starter and a bad neutral safety switch (not sure if that was on the gearshift or the loader shifter since there is a button on both (but maybe they both feed into one switch??).
Today it was in the mid 30s and it started right up without any hitches at all. That's what makes this rather maddening since it's not consistent. I don't have a whole lot of mechanical background but am learning as I go and appreciate all of the feedback on the site. I have a local guy that has been doing grading and roadbuilding all his life and he is going to come up this week to take a look. I just hope it won't start when he is here so he can actually see the problem.

 

[jimmysisson]

Sure sounds like the glow plus/cold start function ain't functioning. As has been suggested, check that with a light, to start with.
Jim