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  1. #1
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    New Holland TC35D

    Default TC-35D Temperature Guage

    My TC-35D is not registering any temperature on the panel guage. I went ahead and replacd both the thermostadt and temperature sending unit. Is there a way to test the guage itself, to see if it's working?

  2. #2
    Elite Member JC-jetro's Avatar
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    Default Re: TC-35D Temperature Guage

    Try to short out the sending unit cable to ground, while the key is in "on" position and then observe the gauge.Report back with your finding.

    JC,
    Ford 1700, 2wd.
    Kubota MX-4700DT, Gear transmission with LA 884 loader, Q/A and HD bucket.
    60" Woods Rotary Cutter, home made (3-pt boom and a Row Hipper) ,King Kutter( 5 ft Tiller,Middle Buster,Single Row Cultivator,Carry-all, 5 ft blade, 6 ft Landscaping Rake ,30" Dirt Scoop and a 4'x4' Drag Harrow)

  3. #3
    Epic Contributor jinman's Avatar
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    Default Re: TC-35D Temperature Guage

    +1, What JC said. . . Remove the wire from the sending unit and ground it. That's the easiest point. While grounded, your gage should go to the maximum reading. Any less means you need a new gage. The instrument panel comes apart and the gage is replaceable. Go to this thread to see photos and description.
    Jim


  4. #4
    Gold Member pedalstomper78's Avatar
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    Default Re: TC-35D Temperature Guage

    jinman......same thing on the fuel gauge?
    The forums are a great place to find information....but also a great place to find speculation. Only you can determine the real problems with your tractor. We're here to help you find the correct way to do it.

  5. #5
    Epic Contributor jinman's Avatar
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    Default Re: TC-35D Temperature Guage

    Quote Originally Posted by pedalstomper78 View Post
    jinman......same thing on the fuel gauge?
    Yep, and the tach also is replaceable. The hour meter, though, is soldered in and not a replaceable part.
    Jim


  6. #6
    Elite Member JC-jetro's Avatar
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    Default Re: TC-35D Temperature Guage

    Excellent read Jim could not have expected any less


    Quote Originally Posted by jinman View Post
    Go to this thread to see photos and description.
    Ford 1700, 2wd.
    Kubota MX-4700DT, Gear transmission with LA 884 loader, Q/A and HD bucket.
    60" Woods Rotary Cutter, home made (3-pt boom and a Row Hipper) ,King Kutter( 5 ft Tiller,Middle Buster,Single Row Cultivator,Carry-all, 5 ft blade, 6 ft Landscaping Rake ,30" Dirt Scoop and a 4'x4' Drag Harrow)

  7. #7
    New Member
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    Default Re: TC-35D Temperature Guage

    Thanks for the instructions. This may be a drawn out conversation because it's a long way from the internet to the tractor. OK, I grounded out the wire, but did not detach from the sending unit. (just jumped to the ground) So, do I need to redo the test? Anyway, no response from the guage. So, If the test is reliable as I perfomed it, I assume either the guage is bad, or there is a break in the wire.

  8. #8
    Elite Member JC-jetro's Avatar
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    Default Re: TC-35D Temperature Guage

    The purpose of grounding the wire is not to test the sender unit. It is intended to test the temp gauge, so your test is accurate and shows your temp gauge is not responding that could be gauge itself or wiring to it. I follow the sender wire toward the cluster and try to short it out to chassis closer to cluster. You mighty be able to find an open. if you can not find an open all the way to the cluster then you need to do what Jim has done to isolate the source which most likely going to be your temp gauge. I'm sure Jim will be back with guidance soon.

    JC,

    Any reason for not taking the wire off the sending unit and have it grounded? just curious.


    Quote Originally Posted by felixedo View Post
    Thanks for the instructions. This may be a drawn out conversation because it's a long way from the internet to the tractor. OK, I grounded out the wire, but did not detach from the sending unit. (just jumped to the ground) So, do I need to redo the test? Anyway, no response from the guage. So, If the test is reliable as I perfomed it, I assume either the guage is bad, or there is a break in the wire.
    Ford 1700, 2wd.
    Kubota MX-4700DT, Gear transmission with LA 884 loader, Q/A and HD bucket.
    60" Woods Rotary Cutter, home made (3-pt boom and a Row Hipper) ,King Kutter( 5 ft Tiller,Middle Buster,Single Row Cultivator,Carry-all, 5 ft blade, 6 ft Landscaping Rake ,30" Dirt Scoop and a 4'x4' Drag Harrow)

  9. #9
    Epic Contributor jinman's Avatar
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    Default Re: TC-35D Temperature Guage

    Quote Originally Posted by JC-jetro View Post
    Any reason for not taking the wire off the sending unit and have it grounded? just curious.
    JC, I think the reason is that the wire coming to the sending unit is a female spade connector. The sender has a male tang. It's fairly easy to slide the female spade off just a bit so you can get an alligator clip on the male tang and then attach it to ground.

    The schematic shows the wire running straight to the instrument panel without going through any connectors. It enters the instrument panel at pin #15 of the connector. It's a brown wire, but there are many brown wires going into that connector. If the connection looks clean, I don't think I'd spend a lot of time investigating a broken wire. The problems with the temperature gage are so common that I think felixedo has sufficiently isolated the problem already. My best bet is it's a stuck or malfunctioning gage.
    Jim


  10. #10
    Elite Member JC-jetro's Avatar
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    Default Re: TC-35D Temperature Guage

    Quote Originally Posted by jinman View Post
    JC, I think the reason is that the wire coming to the sending unit is a female spade connector. The sender has a male tang. It's fairly easy to slide the female spade off just a bit so you can get an alligator clip on the male tang and then attach it to ground.
    Jim,

    What you said is exactly how I saw it on several tractors including my Ford and kubota. Pulling the female spade connector off and putting it back in would just takes a few seconds and was curious why the OP elected not to pull the connector off, use a paper clip and short it out. I have made short pieces of wire that I crimped male tang on them just for test like such. At any rate I also think he has the answer already. As you said if the wire directly lands on PIN#15 then I would not spent toot much time on it , see it hard for it to break in the middle. So I take it this circuit is not protected by any fuse as it only senses resistance change. He might be able to find some obstruction for the needle. Your pics could not me more clear to take the cluster off and get her done.

    JC,
    Ford 1700, 2wd.
    Kubota MX-4700DT, Gear transmission with LA 884 loader, Q/A and HD bucket.
    60" Woods Rotary Cutter, home made (3-pt boom and a Row Hipper) ,King Kutter( 5 ft Tiller,Middle Buster,Single Row Cultivator,Carry-all, 5 ft blade, 6 ft Landscaping Rake ,30" Dirt Scoop and a 4'x4' Drag Harrow)

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