Oil & Fuel New owner of 1952 Ford 8N and 1968 Ford 2000 (gasser) needs some service suggestions

[tmac196]

I inherited a 1952 Ford 8N and a 1968 Ford 2000 gasoline tractor when we acquired a horse farm recently. The 2000 is in need of TLC, while the 8N, used to pull the critical manure spreader was reasonably well maintained by it's previous owner.

I am reasonably capable around machinery, but new to tractors. I have subsequently obtained and thoroughly read owners manuals for both tractors and the shop manual for the 2000.

It's time to change the fluids and filters.

Could you give me your recommendation for which UTF and which motor oil you recommend for these tractors? We live in southern Michigan with rather temperate winters, but the tractors will need to operate at times in temperatures near zero degrees Farenheit.

Secondly, at some point in the past, someone added a screw on oil filter adapter to the 2000. This leaks oil (I believe between the block and the adapter) and the filter has been on so long that there are no longer any identifiable markings for it's brand, model number, etc. I took some pictures for you if it will help. In this instance, how can I identify which replacement oil filter to use?

Thank you in advance for your help.

tmac

 

[Laneman]

As for oil filter my 3000 uses a Fram PH8A. Yours may be the same, but I don't recommend Fram filters, just use the number as a cross reference to a different brand.
Many users on the forum use Tractor Supply Traveller's brand UTF for the rear axle/hydraulic system and are happy. Just don't get the cheaper Xtreme UTF that they sell in the yellow buckets. The transmission is a separate sump from the rear axle and calls for 90 weight mineral oil, also sold at Tractor Supply. It will say Ford Tractor Transmission oil on the label. Engine oil depends on the weather. 5W20 for 10-40 deg, 10W-30 for 32-90 deg.

 

[tmac196]

Laneman,

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll stop at the local TSC for a look see.

Does everyone here need to change the oil two times a year, then? For the number of hours put on this machine that seems a bit expensive and time consuming. Is there no safety in a 5W-30 like I run year round in my automobile? Perhaps not. This is why I like this forum so well.

 

[SDT]

I change the engine oil AND filter in all of my vintage Fords once each year in the fall after end of use.

I use 15 W 40 diesel spec oil in all tractors, gasoline or diesel.

The spin on adapter for your 3 cylinder 2000 is designed to use the same spin on filter as do the later tractors originally equipped with spin on filters.

When you change the engine oil in your 8N the first time it is advisable to remove the oil filter canister and thoroughly clean the sediment from the bottom. Likely this has not been done since rebuild if at all. Use two proper wrenches when removing the oil lines from the canister.

I use CNH 134D oil (or quality equivalent) in the transmission/differential/hydraulic sump of all my vintage Ford tractors. CNH now recommends this in 8N tractors in place of the originally specified GL-1 90W. It provides MUCH better performance in cold weather.

See following recommended sites:

Ford Tractors Discussion Board
Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Board

SDT

 

[tmac196]

SDT,

One more question comes to mind as I read your post: What qualities of the diesel spec make this oil more attractive to you for all of your tractors? How is it different than the "Non-diesel" spec?

Thanks for the tips and the help.

tmac

 

[Soundguy]

i like C rated oils that also carry an S rating, for my Gasser tractors.

higher quality oil. more ZDDP.

many older tractors have flat tappet lifters..e tc..

 

[tmac196]

Update 2/22/13:

I successfully changed the oil in the 8N today. The biggest challenge was getting the crankcase drain plug off the oil pan. I had nothing except a crescent wrench and a cheater pipe and had to rely on a neighbor and his pipe wrench and cheater pipe. The old oil was foamy and filthy.

Next, I removed the oil filter canister with two "proper wrenches", thanks, SDT:


Here is the sludge at the bottom of the canister before cleaning:



After cleaning:



Here is the foamy oil under the oil breather cap:



Why is there a metal baffle in the oil fill tube? It makes it difficult to fill the crankcase quickly. I've never seen anything like this. It occludes 70% of the oriface. Took forever to fill:



Finished oil filter canister reattached:



Now for some questions:

1.Why was the old oil so foamy?

2. Where can I obtain a new screen for the oil breather cap? The old one is filled with oily grime and it is of little obvious benefit as a screen.

3. Why is the a metal baffle occluding the oil fill tube into the crankcase? What a PIA to fill the case.

4. Does the sediment bowl in an 8N normally contain a fuel filter? Here is my sediment bowl. looks like it needs some service, too:



Here is another picture which has nothing to do with vintage tractors, but made me laugh out loud:

 

[Soundguy]

there is a filter above the tap in the tank.. size / shape of a finger.. in the top of the bowl is about a 1.5" flat filter even with thop of glass at the oring/gasket level. in the elbow going into the carb is a small rolled screen.

the baffle is there to prevent oil sloshing splashing or blowing out the breather.. blowby.. hard work.. etc.

you can clean the screen in solvent.. or buy a new one at tractor supply.. etc.. or cut up a 1" thick green scrubby pad used for cleaning grills and trap it in there. repop can and screen ain't expensive... unless totally gone.. solvent cleaning helps them usually.

foamy frothy oil usually indicates water and or overfill ( water displaces oil too )

 

[tmac196]

Update:

I changed the oil, filter, trans and hydraulic fluid in the 2000 this weekend. Two questions have arisen:

This is an image of the trans and diffy fluid which came out of the tractor. looks like a beige puke. The UTF (134D Ford spec) that I replaced it with was a clear amber. Does old fluid always look this way? I am the new owner so I have no idea about when it was changed in the past.



Secondly, I was not able to replace the leaky spin on oil filter adapter because I had nothing big enough to get around the large nut holding it in place which is recessed at the same level as the raised phlange that the oil filter sits on. My 1 1/8 inch socket is my largest and wouldn't get close to fitting over it. The raised nipple the filter screws onto makes it impossible to measure accurately with a tape and, finally, I lack a caliper to measure it. Anyone know the size of this nut?

 

[Soundguy]

te emulsion is from water.. I'd reccomend flushing the sump looking at the stuff that came out.

as for the oil filter adapter... my screen is way to small to see any detail on the pic.. but them stem adapters are rarely torqued down super duper tight. I imagine you could spin it off with a chissle applied to a flat near a corenr of the nut quite easilly..