Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions

[pclausen]

Yes, there are 2 sets of holes for the upper link. I'm already using the top ones, which puts the least amount of stress on that bracket and it is also the one that keeps the top link the most parallel with the lower arms. I do have other holes along the lower arms that I can attach the lift rods to, so I might look into that. I think part of the problem may be that I'm using these non-oem sway control links, and I think the hole I'm using for them is the one the lift rods should be in.

But I don't think any of that is the cause of the bouncing effect. What is happening is that when an implement is raised, it drops maybe 1" or so, and is then raised back up automatically. The cycle is may once every second or so (so very fast). I thought is might be something with the draft control not being adjusted right, as that is the only thing related to the hitch that I could think of that would "signal" the hydraulics and raise the rear implement. So with the tractor just sitting stationary, you can see the front axle bouncing up and down as the rear implement is raised every second or so. When I shut off the tractor, the implement drops to the ground in about 10 seconds. So I think there is an internal blow by leak somewhere, and when the draft control senses that the implement drops, it sends a signal to raise it back up. Not a big deal, but it is probably adding undue stress to the hydraulic system.

 

[pacerron]

Yes, there are 2 sets of holes for the upper link. I'm already using the top ones, which puts the least amount of stress on that bracket and it is also the one that keeps the top link the most parallel with the lower arms. I do have other holes along the lower arms that I can attach the lift rods to, so I might look into that. I think part of the problem may be that I'm using these non-oem sway control links, and I think the hole I'm using for them is the one the lift rods should be in.

But I don't think any of that is the cause of the bouncing effect. What is happening is that when an implement is raised, it drops maybe 1" or so, and is then raised back up automatically. The cycle is may once every second or so (so very fast). I thought is might be something with the draft control not being adjusted right, as that is the only thing related to the hitch that I could think of that would "signal" the hydraulics and raise the rear implement. So with the tractor just sitting stationary, you can see the front axle bouncing up and down as the rear implement is raised every second or so. When I shut off the tractor, the implement drops to the ground in about 10 seconds. So I think there is an internal blow by leak somewhere, and when the draft control senses that the implement drops, it sends a signal to raise it back up. Not a big deal, but it is probably adding undue stress to the hydraulic system.

Peter,
That does sound like a hydraulic problem. You didn't explain that part in your previous query. Most older tractors will drop an implement overnight if you leave them up, but that's a no-no in the first place. Is there a funny looking half moon shaped thing that you can turn about 1/4 turn L-R from neutral to adjust the pick up and drop speed of the implements?
Sometimes those things get fussy and leak by. Do you have any remotes on that bucking horse?
You said, I think, that you have pulled the draft control all the way up so it is not a part of the equation. You are totally controlling the height and lift of the implement with the lift handle....
You might try putting the lift handle all the way down, or part way down, and using the draft control only to see what happens. Most of them will lift the implement off the ground by themselves if the linkage is properly set up.
As I said, I don't know anything about that model ford, so am just offering things to try.
My CNH has an extra 2 button gizmo on the fender that will lift or drop the implement to the heights preset on a cam arrangement on the back. It is very handy for some implements, like grader blades and rakes, since I don't have to mess with the lift handles at all, but I have to play with the adjustment and figure it out every time I set up a different implement.
It is very consistent in going to the preset height and depth though, which is the important thing.
Even though the category size of the links may be the same, the size of the tires and the distance from the ground of the links where they attach to the tractor along with the height of the pins on the implement all are part of the equation. Some implements have extra holes for the pins at different heights to help level everything up. Does the assembly on your rake where the pins are rotate to allow for different pin heights?
Ron

 

[mostly_gas]

The bouncing can be caused by the lift cylinder seal being worn out. My 1700 seal failed and the lift arms started dropping after engine shutoff. As it got worse lift arms drop faster, it started bouncing. However the heavier the implement the worse the bounce.

 

[pacerron]

The bouncing can be caused by the lift cylinder seal being worn out. My 1700 seal failed and the lift arms started dropping after engine shutoff. As it got worse lift arms drop faster, it started bouncing. However the heavier the implement the worse the bounce.

My dad always said, " your gonna pay for a new car, whether you drive one or not":confused3:

 

[pclausen]

Yeah, probably my lift cylinder seal going... How big a pain is it to replace?

I got the hood all done. Here's the underside which I wasn't too concerned about getting a smooth finish on, I just wanted to get all the exposed metal covered

Got the grille surround and upper mesh painted. I was going to replace the grille surround, but once I realized they wanted $400 for that piece of plastic, I decided just to keep this one. The lower mesh was rusted out. Trying to locate someone that has similar metal mesh I can cut out to fit. Dealer want $150 for that piece, witch as almost as crazy as the metal piece.

Anyway, got the hood back on the tractor and applied the stickers, which I now realize are aftermarket, not the OEM deal. Oh well, looks pretty good anyway I think. I had to trim them a little for a proper fit. I also turned the exhaust 90 degrees. Not sure if I like it this way better or not. I'll probably go ahead and order a new single piece unit.

Front shot. The hood is still a little crooked, but much better than before.

So those rusted weights looked out of place now with the hood all painted, so it was time to sandblast those

After 1st coat of paint

The tractor looks much nicer from the driver's seat now. I guess it is time to work on the dash and steering wheel next

 

[FairfaxStu]

Yeah, probably my lift cylinder seal going... How big a pain is it to replace?

I thought in general disassembly and reassembly required some special tools.

 

[wyeguy]

Great looking tractor. Congratulations on your hard work paying off with success!

 

[pacerron]

Google "Metal Mesh" or "metal mesh home depot" 24" x 24" $15.00 Many auto stores might have it as well.
Ron

 

[jinman]

Pete, you need to read through this thread by JC-jetro. It's very detailed with photos. He overhauled his whole hydraulic system and overhaul of the lift cylinder is documented very well in his thread.

 

[FairfaxStu]

Google "Metal Mesh" or "metal mesh home depot" 24" x 24" $15.00 Many auto stores might have it as well.
Ron

Peter, I did some googling and came with with a lot of dead ends. Back in the day I worked for them, Superior Sound over the mountain had it in 4'x8' sheets. We used it to make speaker grilles for custom installs that we did. Dunno how that business is doing these days but it may be worth a call to ask if they would cut you out a piece in your dimensions. Cutting a piece of stuff that thick requires a metal sheer tool - it looks like a drill but it has a sheer on the business end that works kinda like a pair of scissors.
-Stu