Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions

   / Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions
  • Thread Starter
#131  
Jim, thanks for the link to JC-jetro's thread. After reading that, I figured I might as well pop my lift cylinder out. I can't believe how easy it was. Less than 5 minutes.

Here's the tractor after removing it

f1700cyl-1.jpg


Closeup showing the rod the piston pushes against to raise the lift arms

f1700cyl-2.jpg


Sure enough, my piston seal is completely shot!

f1700cyl-3.jpg


Hopefully the local New Holland dealer stocks this item.

I too struck out online trying to locate some similar metal mesh. I'll probably hit the stores tomorrow to see what's available. I went to tsc yesterday, and the only thing they had was this really heavy gauge diamond pattern that has holes large enough to stick your fingers through.
 
   / Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions #132  
Peter:

Did you ever start to think that this tractor has a lot more than 390 hours on it? I went back and looked this pic:

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/ford1700-3.jpg

Seems to me that the tach/hourmeter gauge is a lot newer than everything that surrounds it. Also, it is hard for me to believe that a seal like that would have failed in so few hours.
-Stu
 
   / Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions
  • Thread Starter
#133  
It could be Stu, but the hydraulic oil and filter were in really good condition, unlike some of the other 1700 hydraulic filters I have seen here.

I think it is age more than anything that made that seal go. After all, this is a 30+ year old tractor.

As for all the rust it had when I first got it, my new theory is that is was used primarily at a chicken farm, scraping out the chicken doo. That stuff is very acidic and will make just about anything rust. That could explain both the rust and the low hours if that was all it was ever used for.
 
   / Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions #134  
I don't know what kind of grill material you are looking for, but did you go to McMaster-Carr Search under "perforated metal".
 
   / Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions
  • Thread Starter
#137  
Thanks for the link to McMaster-Carr. Looks like they have exactly what I need! The current pattern is diamond openings (as opposed to staggered holes). I suppose that has better air flow that the sheets with round holes in them, although I doubt is matters much.

Dealer did not stock the seal, but it will be in on Thursday. Total cost was $21, including shipping. Not bad.
 
   / Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions #138  
Peter:

I decided to post this on this thread rather than the other because I suspect more people read this one that have tractors than the other. I saw this pic:

day98-6.jpg


And noticed that you are still using traditional straps rather than chain based ones.

Folks, can somebody weigh in here and tell me if a tractor that heavy is safe with traditional straps as opposed to the chain ones that I think are a whole lot better? Keep me honest here and educate me.
-Stu
 
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   / Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions #139  
And check out this product number on McMaster:

9255T95

It is 20 gauge with 1/4" holes allowing 58% open space. A 36x40 sheet will cost you about $50 and 20 gauge should be cuttable with hand shears. Replace the top and bottom with the same thing and paint them to prevent rust. For a couple hours labor and about $60 in materials including paint, you should be all set.
-Stu
 
   / Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions
  • Thread Starter
#140  
Stu, if you add
at the end, it will make the image show up directly in the post. ;D

I believe straps are considered fine up until 10k. My tractor is around 8700 lbs before the loader and loaded tires. So once the tired are loaded, I should technically be using binders although each strap is rated at 6600 lbs I believe (will have to double check).

I'm a little nervous about rolling to Richmond with this rig and no CDL yet, but hopefully I'll be ok.
 
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