Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions

[JC-jetro]

Got the air filter all cleaned out and put back together. Tractor won't start....


What the heck could have gone wrong?

I don't think anything have gone terribly wrong. it is just pretty finicky. You can compress a slug of air back and forth and yet no fuel movement. One suggestion, although I have not has to do it. I assume the fuel valve is open. I crack open the vent just a hair and then would put a towel right over the tank inlet and seal it as best you can . I would use an air nozzle and keep squirting a bit of air on top of fuel in the tank. That might expel some air up to the bleed screw. I'll watch to see if fuel and air bobbles come our, once I get steady fuel and no bobble then I'd close the vent. After that I go to work on inlet to the injector. I meant to tell you but forgot to run the tractor at least 5 minutes to get the engine warm before attempting to bleed. I ran out of diesel once the engine was good and hot and just adding the fuel to the tank without loosening the injector was good enough to slowly start and responsive to accelerator pedal. Do use the glow plug to help a cold engine to start.

JC,

 

[pacerron]

Got the air filter all cleaned out and put back together. Tractor won't start....

I bleeded some more, 2 screws on top of the fuel filter and banjo bolt where the supply line enters the injection pump. Did it 3 times and cranked it over about 15 times after each bleeding session. Nothing. I then loosened the nuts on the high pressure lines coming out of the injection pump towards the injectors. I get no fuel at all here when cranking the engine like I was expecting.

What the heck could have gone wrong?

I got back on here to mention that Ford likes to hide a little fuel filter up in the tank above the shutoff valve. Drove me nuts for a few days years ago when my tractor would run but no power and it would slow down and speed up. I finally called the dealer and talked to a guy that had been there for years and he wised me up.
Can JC-jetro tell you if there is a filter like that in the 1700?
Also, since you are having problems, maybe shutting the valve off and then back on got the path clogged if there was a bunch of crap in there.
Just a thought.
Ron

 

[JC-jetro]

I got back on here to mention that Ford likes to hide a little fuel filter up in the tank above the shutoff valve. Drove me nuts for a few days years ago when my tractor would run but no power and it would slow down and speed up. I finally called the dealer and talked to a guy that had been there for years and he wised me up.
Can JC-jetro tell you if there is a filter like that in the 1700?
Also, since you are having problems, maybe shutting the valve off and then back on got the path clogged if there was a bunch of crap in there.
Just a thought.
Ron

Ron,

there is no filter there. The inlet pipe is about 1/4"proud of the fuel tank floor and it is not flush. I suppose they have done it would not get some crud deposited in the bottom of the tank. On one occasion a piece of rubber came of the tank cap and it just perfectly lodged in the hole. As a result I had no fuel flow. My suggestion to pete is to close the inlet to the injector pump, take the fuel line off the valve and put a cup under. Then he can open the valve to see if he get s a steady stream. If not, then he can blow some air from the bottom to open up the inlet. He did take the tank off so there is potential of getting fuel sloshed around enough to the get the outlet pipe plugged.

JC,

 

[pacerron]

Ron,

there is no filter there. The inlet pipe is about 1/4"proud of the fuel tank floor and it is not flush. I suppose they have done it would not get some crud deposited in the bottom of the tank. On one occasion a piece of rubber came of the tank cap and it just perfectly lodged in the hole. As a result I had no fuel flow. My suggestion to pete is to close the inlet to the injector pump, take the fuel line off the valve and put a cup under. Then he can open the valve to see if he get s a steady stream. If not, then he can blow some air from the bottom to open up the inlet. He did take the tank off so there is potential of getting fuel sloshed around enough to the get the outlet pipe plugged.

JC,

Your way sounds logical. Could be moss, leaves, all kinds of stuff in there. Seed off of cutting and baling hay loves to accumulate around my old Ford tank cap.
The filter I was talking about sits in the top of the shutoff valve, in the tank, is about the same diameter as the line and only about an inch long. It looks and feels solid but is porous. You can't see it w/o taking the valve out.
Sort of like what they use in some large chainsaw tanks. I don't think my newer tractor has one as it has an inline throwaway filter before the main filters. I can see black plastic drill shavings floating in the clear case from my 2 fuel tanks on that tractor but the pleated filter in there stops them from going further.
Modern technology??? The top tank behind the driver seat has a sight tube to see how much fuel is in it and the fuel gauge on the dash doesn't budge from full until the bottom tank under the floor deck starts getting low.
Ron

 

[pacerron]

As far as bleeding on the old Ford I loosened the fuel pipe on the top of the engine at each injector, 1 x 1 and turned the engine till a little fuel came out then tightened the fitting. That's fun with a front end loader on and a battery as big as the engine in a tray above the engine.
After the 3rd injector bleed it started right up.

 

[pclausen]

Thanks guys. I got is started. I went back and searched for how to bleed a 1700 injector pump, and I was doing it wrong. Instead of loosening the banjo bolt, there is actually a bleed screw on the pump itself. I was doing the red arrows in the pic below from left to right.

I should not have bothered with the banjo bolt, but instead just bleed the yellow bolt. Once I did that, it started right up. I was going to change the oil in the injection pump, but mine appears to only have fill and check holes (green arrows). Any idea how to drain the oil out without a drain plug? Suck it out of the check hole?

 

[pclausen]

Anyway, I drove it around for a bit once I got it started and it sounds so much nicer with a muffler.

I did notice the temp gauge did not rise, but I tracked that down to a poor connection at the temp sending unit as seen below. Hopefully I can pick up a couple of new ones of those at the auto part store.

The other thing I noticed was that now that the oil pressure light works like it should, the battery light stays on the whole time. I'll need to study the wiring diagram to figure out what that would be the case now. The only 2 fuses that are connected right now are for the 2 red lights in the tach.

Anyway, after driving it around for a bit, I drained the transmission oil. It looks like it might have been the original! At least it appears to have picked up some moisture over the years.

I then pulled the screen out, which looked nowhere near as bad as JC's clogged one. You are looking at the underside, which is where the dirt collected.

After a bath in diesel and toothbrush cleaning, followed by a air gun blowing, it looked pretty decent.

I put everything back together and filled it back up to half way up the dipstick. Once I get it nice at hot, I'll check the reading again.

Well, that's it for this weekend. All in all, this old F1700 is coming along nicely!

 

[jinman]

Pete, with some of the rust I've seen on your tractor, I'm wondering if it was ever in a flood or used around salt water. I don't think your oil has salt water in it. That just looks like normal water contamination. Put some in clear mason jar and see if the water separates to get an idea of the percentage of water in the oil.

 

[FairfaxStu]

May I suggest one of these: Roll Over Protection Frames
-Stu

 

[pclausen]

Pete, with some of the rust I've seen on your tractor, I'm wondering if it was ever in a flood or used around salt water. I don't think your oil has salt water in it. That just looks like normal water contamination. Put some in clear mason jar and see if the water separates to get an idea of the percentage of water in the oil.

The tractor has and old dealer sticker on it, from a dealer 2 cities over that is no longer around, so I down think it has been near salt water. I suppose it could have been in a flood. I suspect is has been living outside though for pretty much all of its life up until now.

I read through the whole "Ford 1500/1700 injector pump" thread and now understand I have a plug less injector pump. I'll give some though to drilling or just leave it alone. Heck, this pump only has just over 380 hours on it so far.

Stu, I am already looking at ROPS for it. Thanks for the link! That looks like a decent one.