Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions

[pclausen]

To fix the oil pressure light not working, I moved the wire connected to the bottom fuse up to the 2nd fuse as indicated by the green curved arrow. That made the oil pressure light work as it provided a 12V source to complete the circuit, and once the oil pressure switch got pressure, it became open to ground.

Note in the picture above that there was no 12V source connected to that bottom fuse (yellow arrow), so the oil pressure light would have never worked. What I don't understand is why moving it up to the 2nd fuse from the top would have make the no charging warning light stay on after starting the engine?

Looking at the wiring diagram just makes things even more confusing since it does not at all match what I have.

According to that diagram, all 4 fuses are getting 12V from a common source, there is no temp gauge, but only a temp dummy light, and the oil pressure and no charge lights are not wired to the fuses at all.

Me very confused...

I guess I'll start troubleshooting by moving the wire back down from the #2 fuse to the #4 fuse, just to make sure that makes the no charging warning light go out once the engine starts (and of course make the oil pressure warning light now work again as well). Assuming that goes as expected, I plan to feed the 12V from fuse #3 down to fuse #4, as that should then provide 12V to both the hot side of both warning bulbs in the tach housing.

I guess running a current through fuse #2 causes the no charging warning somehow....

 

[JC-jetro]

Thanks guys. I got is started. I went back and searched for how to bleed a 1700 injector pump, and I was doing it wrong. Instead of loosening the banjo bolt, there is actually a bleed screw on the pump itself. I was doing the red arrows in the pic below from left to right.

,


I should not have bothered with the banjo bolt, but instead just bleed the yellow bolt. Once I did that, it started right up. I was going to change the oil in the injection pump, but mine appears to only have fill and check holes (green arrows). Any idea how to drain the oil out without a drain plug? Suck it out of the check hole?

top green arrow is the fill point. it does also have a breather hole. open the top open the drain, drain completely. close the bottom, open the moiddle overflow , fill from the top,m stop filling as soon as oil comes of the over flow.

JC

 

[pacerron]

Noticed in your picture that the fuses are of different amp values looking at the size of the links in the glass.

Why would you want idiot lights to be fused?
Bad enough that the filament in the bulbs burn out leaving you clueless of trouble.
I haven't studied your wiring diagram... it's too small. I'll have to save it as pdf.
Ron

 

[JC-jetro]

Noticed in your picture that the fuses are of different amp values looking at the size of the links in the glass.

Why would you want idiot lights to be fused?
Bad enough that the filament in the bulbs burn out leaving you clueless of trouble.
I haven't studied your wiring diagram... it's too small. I'll have to save it as pdf.
Ron

I can send you the pdf wiring tomorrow. The fuse is to protect the circuit, you don't want a wire burn inside the harness, fuse is good. The thing is with idiot light you get confirmation of circuit being intact and then the light should go out hence confirmation of the sending device, both are important to know. When I turn glow plug on, I expect to see alt and oil pressure on and as soon as engine starts I expect them to promptly go out every time. anything different is time for doing some diagnostics.

JC,

 

[pclausen]

I got the issue resolved. The problem was, drum-roll.... a low charge on the battery after all the cranking to prime the injector pump.

I fired it up this afternoon and let it sit at high idle to let the engine get warm to do an oil change. By the time I went back to shut it down, the light was out! I shut it down, and sure enough, both red light came in. Started it back up, and the lights went back out again. So all is well!

 

[JC-jetro]

I got the issue resolved. The problem was, drum-roll.... a low charge on the battery after all the cranking to prime the injector pump.

I fired it up this afternoon and let it sit at high idle to let the engine get warm to do an oil change. By the time I went back to shut it down, the light was out! I shut it down, and sure enough, both red light came in. Started it back up, and the lights went back out again. So all is well!

Well, I reckon you got done gaining on it.:thumbsup:

 

[FairfaxStu]

Well, I reckon you got done gaining on it.:thumbsup:

I just noticed that you have your 1700 in your profile picture. Is that a rollbar or a canopy above it?
-Stu

 

[JC-jetro]

I just noticed that you have your 1700 in your profile picture. Is that a rollbar or a canopy above it?
-Stu

Both. It is my home made ROPS/Canopy. Click on the link below if your interested on how I have done it. It does not have OSHA listing but it's good enough for me. I am able to take off the canopy and uprighst in 1 hr or so.

JC,


http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ng/211308-my-f-1700-home-made.html?highlight=

 

[pclausen]

Yeah, I read that thread of yours JC a few days ago. Good job! Getting a welder is something I have been contemplating for a long time. That is one of the few tools I don't not have in my workshop.

 

[pacerron]

Pete,
I'm glad you got your 1700 running good and the light was just indicating a low battery.
Here are a couple items that may help the thousands of others that have Ford tractors made between 1965 and 1990 that
develop starving fuel problems.
A couple of the pics show the shutoff valve and the filter on the tank side.Notice they are both the same part number so the handle and screen variation will depend on where your local dealer has ordered the part from and how long ago.
Ford loves to change tractor model numbers. Your 1700 was previously the 1600, I believe.
It would be possible to remove the filter or even blow a hole in it with compressed air if it becomes clogged but you can see from the pictures of the old valve body I dug out of the junk box for my Ford that the 2 small holes for fuel passage would be much more likely to become clogged with dirt or slime with the filter removed or punctured.
The other illustrations are just of wiring for the fault light for an alternator or generator. Most alternators anymore have the voltage regulator circuit in them but the wiring diagram you posted may have been for one with an external regulator.
Is your regulator external?
Ron