Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions

[pclausen]

Ron, good advice in the fuel shut off valve. I have on my to-do list to drain and clean out the fuel tank. When I do, I'll be sure to pull the shutoff valve and check the screen. I was pleasantly surprised by how smoothly it operates.

I believe I have the original alternator, so I bet my regulator is external as well, hiding up somewhere under the instrument panel.

Also, I noticed last night that I have gasket material falling out of the front axle housings. Has anyone have any experience with replacing those?

I'm talking about item 10 in the above diagram.

Thanks

 

[pclausen]

Came across this:

Ford 1700 1900 Tractor ROPS Rollbar | eBay

Comes with brackets ready to mount from what I can tell.

 

[pacerron]

Came across this:

Ford 1700 1900 Tractor ROPS Rollbar | eBay

Comes with brackets ready to mount from what I can tell.

Pete,
Looks too much like a homemade to me.
The design of a rollbar is critical for the tractor in height, width, and mounting location. I don't know anything about a f-1700 but it has to be pretty small and probably narrow in rear wheel width.
You notice on most of the small tractors that the rollbar is wider at the top. This and the calculated height are important to give an operators body and head that is being slung sideways in a rollover protection from being slammed into the ground.
The mounting is also very important and should be IMO as well as in most OEM designs bolted over the top of the rear axles to give added support in case a bolt shears.
The idea of having a top bar wider than the verticals, as in the one advertised is faulty security IMO. If the tractor rolled over on concrete it might help a little but on dirt it would just bury in and add no extra width.

While on safety, is there a place to add weight to the front of the f-1700? You may need it when you put that big rotospader on the back and try to raise it to travel height with the 3 pt.
Ron

 

[JC-jetro]

The roll bar on Ebay linked is the OEM one.

JC,

 

[pclausen]

Here's the OEM roll bar on dad's tractor:

It looks similar to the eBay one, but there are differences for sure, but maybe that's because dad purchased his 1910 in Europe and imported it to the US?

Btw, you guys don't know, but dad was killed when his 1910 rolled over on him. He had taken the top part of his roll bar off as it would not clear his shed, and he had grown tired of dropping it every time he parked it. FairfaxStu is a long time friend of mine, and he was visiting the day I got the call from mom and saw the scene. Not a pretty sight and something that I'll never forget. So I do appreciate Stu getting on my *** about getting a roll bar for this 1700...

 

[JC-jetro]

Here's the OEM roll bar on dad's tractor:


It looks similar to the eBay one, but there are differences for sure, but maybe that's because dad purchased his 1910 in Europe and imported it to the US?

Btw, you guys don't know, but dad was killed when his 1910 rolled over on him.

Oh, my. I'm sorry about your loss Pete. May his soul rests in eternal peace


JC,

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Came across this:

Ford 1700 1900 Tractor ROPS Rollbar | eBay

Comes with brackets ready to mount from what I can tell.

That is the same one that is on my 1900. I do think the price is high especially after shipping.

#10 is what I call a felt wiper. It wipes the dirt off as you turn the wheels left or right.If I remember correctly there are 6 bolts that hold the 2 retaining plates on. It is an easy fix.
Bill

 

[mostly_gas]

Also, I noticed last night that I have gasket material falling out of the front axle housings. Has anyone have any experience with replacing those?
Thanks

pclausen, I have had grease build and look like what you describe. Took me a while to clean off the old grease.

 

[pacerron]

Came across this:

Ford 1700 1900 Tractor ROPS Rollbar | eBay

Comes with brackets ready to mount from what I can tell.

Perhaps you could ask the seller to send you the certification numbers off the ROPS prior to buying it.
If you read this article in its entirety there is very good information about the development of ROPS and the fact that
it was not provided as standard on American sold tractors till 1985. That means in all probability that any ROPS on a 1700 farm
tractor was a retrofit.
In any case, the article explains a number of fallacies as to the responsibility of the certification as well as what it means.
I really hadn't paid any attention to this subject prior to your discussion. I just checked my tractors. The old ford which was manufactured in Canada has the plate with the numbers and the new Case New Holland made in Italy has the plate as well.

ROPS - Important Information

 

[rayikeo2]

Ron, good advice in the fuel shut off valve. I have on my to-do list to drain and clean out the fuel tank. When I do, I'll be sure to pull the shutoff valve and check the screen. I was pleasantly surprised by how smoothly it operates.

I believe I have the original alternator, so I bet my regulator is external as well, hiding up somewhere under the instrument panel.

Also, I noticed last night that I have gasket material falling out of the front axle housings. Has anyone have any experience with replacing those?

I'm talking about item 10 in the above diagram.

Thanks

The gasket material normally shows about 1/2" or less all around on those front axles. Put about 10 or 20 shots of grese in the top zerk of both wheels. Grease smear is normal when you turn the wheels. After several turns back and forth of the tires. If the smear doesn't appear, put more grease in the top zerts until the ball joint looks like it is being lubricated. Your gaskets may be normal. The ball will always look greasy in appearance when properly lubed. I have 1000 hours on mine anf those joints have always been greasy looking. The exposed gasket keeps the joint scraped clean of dirt and keeps it lubed.