Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions

   / Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions #1  

pclausen

Veteran Member
Joined
May 9, 2008
Messages
1,472
Location
Nelson County, VA
Tractor
JD 5085M, Ford 1700, JD GT235
I went picked up a 1700 this morning for $2800, which I think was good deal. The tractor does not look the greatest cosmetically, but mechanically I believe it is solid.

Here is it on my trailer after getting it home

ford1700-1.jpg


I believe it is a 1981 model

ford1700-2.jpg


It idles nice and steady at just over 700 rpm. Only has 390 hours on it.

ford1700-3.jpg


Right side of engine. I'm thinking it would be a good idea to replace all the fuel and coolant hoses. What do you guys think?

ford1700-4.jpg


Closeup of fuel filter and injection pump. Looks good I think. I read here about replacing the oil in the injection pump?

ford1700-5.jpg


Left side of engine. Looks like the starter solenoid is new. Looks like I need to replace the "fuel gauge" hose (red arrow). What type of clear tubing will hold up?

ford1700-6.jpg


High pressure hydraulic line. If I want to add a rear remote, this is where I would tap into the hydraulics, right?

ford1700-7.jpg


Low pressure return side. Am I correct in assuming there is a filter behind the cover?

ford1700-8.jpg


Undercarriage. Looks look from what I can tell.

ford1700-9.jpg


Another angle

ford1700-10.jpg


Radiator screen is shot. Hopefully a replacement is readily available at a reasonable price.

ford1700-11.jpg


Brand new front rims and tires.

ford1700-12.jpg


The rear rims have me a little concerned. It looks like they have been painted in the past. Should I have the tires off the rims and sandblast and repaint them?

ford1700-13.jpg


All in all, I think this was an excellent deal for $2800!

I plan to carry out the following preventive maintenance tasks:

Change engine oil and filter
Clean and re-oil air filter
Change transmission/hydraulic fluid (and hydraulic filter if there is one)
Change front axle oil
Lube all grease points

Anything else I should do? I checked the coolant, and it looks brand new. Fuel filter also looks good, but they are cheap, so maybe I should replace is anyway?

As time allows, I plan to remove the fenders and sand blast and repaint them. Same with all the blue parts. I see some pretty deep rust in places.
 
   / Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions #2  
I went picked up a 1700 this morning for $2800, which I think was good deal. The tractor does not look the greatest cosmetically, but mechanically I believe it is solid.

Here is it on my trailer after getting it home

ford1700-1.jpg


I believe it is a 1981 model

ford1700-2.jpg


It idles nice and steady at just over 700 rpm. Only has 390 hours on it.

ford1700-3.jpg


Right side of engine. I'm thinking it would be a good idea to replace all the fuel and coolant hoses. What do you guys think?

ford1700-4.jpg


Closeup of fuel filter and injection pump. Looks good I think. I read here about replacing the oil in the injection pump?

ford1700-5.jpg


Left side of engine. Looks like the starter solenoid is new. Looks like I need to replace the "fuel gauge" hose (red arrow). What type of clear tubing will hold up?

ford1700-6.jpg


High pressure hydraulic line. If I want to add a rear remote, this is where I would tap into the hydraulics, right?

ford1700-7.jpg


Low pressure return side. Am I correct in assuming there is a filter behind the cover?

ford1700-8.jpg


Undercarriage. Looks look from what I can tell.

ford1700-9.jpg


Another angle

ford1700-10.jpg


Radiator screen is shot. Hopefully a replacement is readily available at a reasonable price.

ford1700-11.jpg


Brand new front rims and tires.

ford1700-12.jpg


The rear rims have me a little concerned. It looks like they have been painted in the past. Should I have the tires off the rims and sandblast and repaint them?

ford1700-13.jpg


All in all, I think this was an excellent deal for $2800!

I plan to carry out the following preventive maintenance tasks:

Change engine oil and filter
Clean and re-oil air filter
Change transmission/hydraulic fluid (and hydraulic filter if there is one)
Change front axle oil
Lube all grease points

Anything else I should do? I checked the coolant, and it looks brand new. Fuel filter also looks good, but they are cheap, so maybe I should replace is anyway?

As time allows, I plan to remove the fenders and sand blast and repaint them. Same with all the blue parts. I see some pretty deep rust in places.


What are you going to do with it??
 
   / Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions #3  
It all looks good and promising. Allthe preventative and maintenance items you enumerated I have done with much information provided on many threads and comments. I also have replacement SKU# for automotive radiator hoses that is almost identical. I have changed all vent hoses, fuel hoses , injector overflow to the tanks. I'd look at h the rims a bit closely. It might not be a bad idea later on to take the tire off and inspect the rim and give it good cleaning and grinding and have some rustproof coating to save what is remaining plus a paint job. All and all if mechanically sound you got a very good deal. I have a few thread started on this. Use my handle and search and you most fo what you asked above.

JC,
 
   / Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions #4  
For $2800 heck of deal..if anything godd puller around homestead.
 
   / Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions #5  
The rust on the rear wheel indicates that the tire has had calcuim in it. When they leak, calcuim it eats the paint away. I bet it is still in them. If they do they will have to be pumped before tire repair or tire removal.
 
   / Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions
  • Thread Starter
#6  
What are you going to do with it??
Do finish landscaping/yard work (8' rake, 8' finish mover)
Post hole digging
Run a PTO generator
Run a log splitter
Work in the woods in tight places where my JD won't fit or get all scratched up
And many other things I have yet to discover! ;)
 
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   / Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Thanks JC, I'll do a search on our threads and start putting a shopping list together!
 
   / Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions
  • Thread Starter
#8  
The rust on the rear wheel indicates that the tire has had calcuim in it. When they leak, calcuim it eats the paint away. I bet it is still in them. If they do they will have to be pumped before tire repair or tire removal.
Can I not just drain it and let it evaporate?

I want this tractor to be as light as possible, so I'm going to run nothing but air in it once I get the rims fixed. If I run into something that this little tractor can't handle, I'll pull out the big gun.
 
   / Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions #9  
Can I not just drain it and let it evaporate?

I want this tractor to be as light as possible, so I'm going to run nothing but air in it once I get the rims fixed. If I run into something that this little tractor can't handle, I'll pull out the big gun.

First thing to do is determine if there is calcium or another liquid in them.
Stop with the valve stem near the ground and push in the core stem. You will know immediately.
A tractor that old will have a tube in it particularly if it has been filled with liquid.

Calcium gets a bad rap in today's world but it is heavier per gallon than the windshield washer fluid they use now.
I have had calcium in a Ford tractor I purchased new since 1989 and it does what is intended.
If one of your tires has been punctured in the past there might be some fluid that got between the tube and the
inside of the rim depending on whether the puncture was below the liquid line or above as the air leaked out probably over time when the tractor was parked. Calcium filled tires are often only half full of liquid versus the windshield washer fluid fill which is usually 3/4 liquid.
More likely if there was calcium in the tube it leaked out from a cut stem of the tube or a bad valve core.

I have put thousands of hours on my old Ford and have replaced the rear tires from wear. The insides of the rims were
fine and not rusted. I have had a little paint peeling and rust on the outside of the rims but it was not from the calcium in the tubes.
The only way you will know for sure is to remove the tires and tubes. Always a chance of pinching the tubes doing that or in re-installing the tubes and tires.
Since you don't want the weight, if it exists, you will have to be the judge as to whether it is worth taking the tires and tubes from the rims.
Ron
 
   / Pics of my new (to me) 1700 and some questions
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Thanks Ron. Your advice is always very insightful. So if I was to just drain the liquid (assuming there is any), and not do anything else at this point, would that pose a problem?

I'm also curious about these sway links:

ford1700-20.jpg


I always hated those on my dad's 1910, and I just love this style on my Deere:

ford1700-21.jpg


Would it be possible to adopt the solid style shown above to the 1700?
 
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