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  1. #11
    New Member 53Gunner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    5
    Location
    Wicker Mountain, Mississippi
    Tractor
    1998 NH TC29

    Default Re: my newly purchased TC30 wants to die, hard to start.

    Quote Originally Posted by beebe44 View Post
    You wouldn't buy a tc30 HST with 381 hours for $4700 site unseen? .
    No, but I don't buy for investment purposes.

    My switch does not go counterclockwise so that seems unusual to me.
    -imag0771-jpg-imag0772-jpg

  2. #12
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    102
    Location
    Dripping Springs, Texas
    Tractor
    New Holland TC30

    Default Re: my newly purchased TC30 wants to die, hard to start.

    If you turn the ignition switch counterclockwise on mine the glow plug light turns on for 5 seconds or so. You'll have to follow the voltage from the ignitions switch.

  3. #13
    Super Member tcreeley's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    6,336
    Location
    New England Yankee living in Central Maine
    Tractor
    NH TC30

    Default Re: my newly purchased TC30 wants to die, hard to start.

    My 2003 TC30 switch turns back toward me (counterclockwise) and I hold it. The red lights light up and when they blink 2x, I release and start the tractor. -about a count of 12-20 depending on the temp. I even use the glow plug switch in the summer (count of 5).
    Doesn't start easily if I don't warm the glow plugs after the engine is cooled.

    My key switch needs to be tightened up- swivels easily - then I hold the housing as I turn the key.
    Change the filters and fluids. Run it some, then change again (hydraulic too and front axle). Keep it greased. Great tractor- rugged.
    2003 NH TC30, 5' International Agritech Bushog, Hiller/Bedder, + miscellaneous and sundry items of use.

  4. #14
    New Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    17
    Location
    Idaho
    Tractor
    Deere, Case, Kioti

    Default Re: my newly purchased TC30 wants to die, hard to start.

    So I thought I had it fixed but I was wrong. It started up just fine after replacing the fuel filter but I think it was just a fluke. The engine was still warm from running it before. The old filter didn't appear to be dirty so I don't think that really did anything. I've had some time to work on it the last couple days. I replaced the fuel lines from the tank to the filter and from the filter to the injection pump just to rule out any potential clog, collapsing line, or air leak. I have really good fuel flow through the filter to the injection pump. So I'm about 95 percent sure the problem is either in the injection pump or the injectors or the lines between them. When I crank the engine I get NO smoke at all out of the exhaust so I believe that tells me no fuel is getting through the injectors. So I pulled the injectors out thinking maybe they were clogged (don't know if that is a common problem as I've never worked on a diesel engine before). I took each injector apart and cleaned it. They didn't appear to be worn out or dirty really at all and I was surprised how simple they are each one consists of about 6 parts. There was just a little carbon build up on the tips of the injectors. Put them back together and back in. Made no difference. About a minute or two of cranking cold (still no smoke at all from exhaust until it starts) and it starts just barely and has very little power. Before I attached the metal lines from the injection pump to the injectors I cranked it to check how much fuel was spurting out of the lines. Each line squirts a small amount of diesel in sequence. I tried this at full throttle and minimum throttle thinking there might be more squirting out at full throttle and appears to be no difference. So I'm thinking maybe there is not enough pressure to push them through the injectors? When I get it running the throttle control works as it should Is there some way I could check the pressure? I'm worried I may have a bad injection pump ($1200). Or maybe the injectors are bad? I tried using starting fluid and just a tiny squirt at the air filter housing will start the tractor immediately both times I tried it cold. I never let the tractor warm up during all this just tried to keep it cold. When I let the tractor warm up for about 15 minutes (seems like a long time to get it warmed up) it seems to have almost adequate power and I could even run it in high gear without it bogging down too much but only when it was FULLY warmed up. Last thing I checked was while I had it running at minimum throttle I tried loosening each of the three fuel lines one at a time. I did this to see if it was running on all three cylinders. Each time I loosened a line it started running like crap so I know it is running on all three cylinders. When it is running at medium or high throttle or minimum throttle fully warm it purrs nicely and the engine sounds good, but just not adequate power. I probably should have tried before but I'm going to drain all the fuel and make sure it has good diesel. Now that I think of it that really might be the problem and I feel like a dummy now for not doing that before. Also I checked out the glow plugs and one of them was bad. I ohmed them and one was bad but to be sure I pulled out all three, completed the circuit to ground and checked to see if they get red hot and two of the three did But I don't think the glow plugs really have anything to do with my fuel problem. So....after my long story.......any thoughts? I'm gonna go change out the fuel now.

  5. #15
    Super Member tcreeley's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    6,336
    Location
    New England Yankee living in Central Maine
    Tractor
    NH TC30

    Default Re: my newly purchased TC30 wants to die, hard to start.

    Quote Originally Posted by beebe44 View Post
    So I thought I had it fixed but I was wrong. It started up just fine after replacing the fuel filter but I think it was just a fluke. The engine was still warm from running it before. The old filter didn't appear to be dirty so I don't think that really did anything. I've had some time to work on it the last couple days. I replaced the fuel lines from the tank to the filter and from the filter to the injection pump just to rule out any potential clog, collapsing line, or air leak. I have really good fuel flow through the filter to the injection pump. So I'm about 95 percent sure the problem is either in the injection pump or the injectors or the lines between them. When I crank the engine I get NO smoke at all out of the exhaust so I believe that tells me no fuel is getting through the injectors. So I pulled the injectors out thinking maybe they were clogged (don't know if that is a common problem as I've never worked on a diesel engine before). I took each injector apart and cleaned it. They didn't appear to be worn out or dirty really at all and I was surprised how simple they are each one consists of about 6 parts. There was just a little carbon build up on the tips of the injectors. Put them back together and back in. Made no difference. About a minute or two of cranking cold (still no smoke at all from exhaust until it starts) and it starts just barely and has very little power. Before I attached the metal lines from the injection pump to the injectors I cranked it to check how much fuel was spurting out of the lines. Each line squirts a small amount of diesel in sequence. I tried this at full throttle and minimum throttle thinking there might be more squirting out at full throttle and appears to be no difference. So I'm thinking maybe there is not enough pressure to push them through the injectors? When I get it running the throttle control works as it should Is there some way I could check the pressure? I'm worried I may have a bad injection pump ($1200). Or maybe the injectors are bad? I tried using starting fluid and just a tiny squirt at the air filter housing will start the tractor immediately both times I tried it cold. I never let the tractor warm up during all this just tried to keep it cold. When I let the tractor warm up for about 15 minutes (seems like a long time to get it warmed up) it seems to have almost adequate power and I could even run it in high gear without it bogging down too much but only when it was FULLY warmed up. Last thing I checked was while I had it running at minimum throttle I tried loosening each of the three fuel lines one at a time. I did this to see if it was running on all three cylinders. Each time I loosened a line it started running like crap so I know it is running on all three cylinders. When it is running at medium or high throttle or minimum throttle fully warm it purrs nicely and the engine sounds good, but just not adequate power. I probably should have tried before but I'm going to drain all the fuel and make sure it has good diesel. Now that I think of it that really might be the problem and I feel like a dummy now for not doing that before. Also I checked out the glow plugs and one of them was bad. I ohmed them and one was bad but to be sure I pulled out all three, completed the circuit to ground and checked to see if they get red hot and two of the three did But I don't think the glow plugs really have anything to do with my fuel problem. So....after my long story.......any thoughts? I'm gonna go change out the fuel now.
    When I changed my fuel filter on my 2003 NH TC30 I thought I had killed it. It was getting fuel, but it wouldn't start until I bled the injector lines of air. The first time I did it like I was bleeding brakes- little open and quick close. That didn't cut it. I had to really open the line so it shot out before I closed it tight to get all of the air out. I did that with each one- then it ran perfectly. The manual has a procedure to use to bleed the injectors. NH site- you can buy a manual and download. Other places will send it within the week. Good to get.
    Others on site can provide more info- 1st time I ever did it.

    Good luck.

    -different NH tractor, this might help:
    http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/n...er-change.html
    2003 NH TC30, 5' International Agritech Bushog, Hiller/Bedder, + miscellaneous and sundry items of use.

  6. #16
    New Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    17
    Location
    Idaho
    Tractor
    Deere, Case, Kioti

    Default Re: my newly purchased TC30 wants to die, hard to start.

    Well I drained out the fuel and put in fresh diesel and made no difference. I can get the tractor started with just a little squirt of starting fluid every time, but I have to crank it for minutes at a time to get it started otherwise and it still has the power issue until fully warmed up. I even ran it for about two hours. I was thinking before there might just be a little air in the pump but I don't think so anymore after running it as long as I did. When it is fully warmed up it almost seems to have as much power as it should. I'm going to try to dig into the fuel injection pump. I'm thinking maybe there is some gunk in there or I can see what is wrong. I also might do a compression test just for curiosity if I can find someone to lend me their compression gauge but I don't think that is the problem. Maybe I'll post a video so you guys can see what you think. After looking the tractor over real good (I took off all the fenders to clean and touch up paint) I just don't understand the good reviews. Our kioti tractor (way more bang for your buck) and the john deere i have operated are both built so much better than this. Also found a very small leak in the radiator. Any tips on what to use for that?

  7. #17
    Veteran Member AchingBack's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    2,271
    Location
    Southern Oregon
    Tractor
    Mahindra 2615HST

    Default Re: my newly purchased TC30 wants to die, hard to start.

    I did not read whether or not you have checked or changed your air filter. As for the radiator leak, ground black pepper always works for me.
    I thank God for these gifts: 2005 Mahindra 2615 HST w/loader, (485 hours), and 3710 backhoe. Markham tooth bar, Bush Hog SQ60 rotary cutter, Bush Hog 3507 angle blade, Bush Hog LLR84 landscape rake w/gauge wheels, Rankin loader mounted forks, Paumco Quick Spade, Agri-Ease 3 point log splitter.

  8. #18
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    752
    Location
    Pomfret,Connecticut
    Tractor
    yanmar 336d w ldr,C,Cub,many attachments

    Default Re: my newly purchased TC30 wants to die, hard to start.

    go easy on the starting fluid,try to find out what it needs, i dont think it needs starting fluid, with those low hours it should run great, you will find the issue,keep us posted. Thats a good series tractor

  9. #19
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    163
    Location
    Quincy IL
    Tractor
    New Holland TC 30

    Default Re: my newly purchased TC30 wants to die, hard to start.

    My 2006 TC30 starts with the key turned counter clock wise, the glow plug light will stay lit for 10 seconds or so then when it goes out turn key clockwise an it starts on first or second crank. without useing glow plug it will take 10 cranks or so.

  10. #20
    Veteran Member Hooked_on_HP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    2,043
    Location
    Coal City IL
    Tractor
    Ford 1900 FWD Kubota F2100E

    Default Re: my newly purchased TC30 wants to die, hard to start.

    If you use starting fluid do not heat the glow plugs. It can cause realy bad problems. Have you checked your valve lash. HF sells a diesel compression tester for arround 25 bucks that will screw in to the glow plug hole.
    Bill

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