My new to me Ford 1600

   / My new to me Ford 1600
  • Thread Starter
#31  
Tires are 4 ply AG. Very happy with the price
Bucket pics are below. Looking at the bucket from the drivers seat, the right side front really sags. Somebody welded on a piece of angle iron already. Not sure how to straighten it out.
 

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   / My new to me Ford 1600
  • Thread Starter
#32  
Second question......after sweating my *** off for too long, i gave up on getting the dang headlight lens back on after i put in the new bulb. Anyone figure this one out? These three clips somehow fit into three tabs on the silver reflector and hold the rim, gasket, and glass lens on. I even watched as i took it off to see how it worked, but for the life of me i cannot get the thing back on!
 

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   / My new to me Ford 1600 #33  
Second question......after sweating my *** off for too long, i gave up on getting the dang headlight lens back on after i put in the new bulb. Anyone figure this one out? These three clips somehow fit into three tabs on the silver reflector and hold the rim, gasket, and glass lens on. I even watched as i took it off to see how it worked, but for the life of me i cannot get the thing back on!

I have done exact same thing with my 1700 when I bought it. One of the lenses was busted. the clips have spring action that causes it to stay on place. The two ends of the clip jam against the edge of trim ring and the curvy part in the middle grans the edge of the lens toward the ring. Once you got all in they stay put. Have you changed both lights? , can you look the other one to see how it is done? there is only one way this thing goes in. Again the ends jam against the lip of the ring, start with the cuvy part on the edge of the lens.

JC,
 
   / My new to me Ford 1600 #34  
Tires are 4 ply AG. Very happy with the price
Bucket pics are below. Looking at the bucket from the drivers seat, the right side front really sags. Somebody welded on a piece of angle iron already. Not sure how to straighten it out.

I think what I would do there, is to lower the bucket on something solid (such as a thick tree trunk, may be 24" long and a 1.5 foot dia. I'd curl the bucket to get it flat against the wood block. The purpose of this to direct a blow to the metal and directly below to wood block. I's my sledge hammer and go to work. You do not want the force of impact to transfer to loader arm, mount and cylinder. You can heat up and then beat the bucket to shape. the problem with that is that you soften the metal which is undesirable. If i managed to beat it to shape , then I heat up again and put some cold water on it to quench and harden it some. I'd only do this if for sure I want to add (weld) stiffener angle to the bucket.

I think you'll be fine even if you don't do anything. it should still work, although you want the but tom bucket edge flat.

JC,
 
   / My new to me Ford 1600
  • Thread Starter
#35  
Bought a back blade, box blade, and an old bush hog and finally got out to use them today. The bush hog is made by Independent Manufacturing and is ancient. Gear box seen good and works well but the darn back wheel will flips sideways no mater what i do and just drags and tears up the turf. I for the life of me cannot figure out why it wont automatically turn to roll with the direction of the tractor. The bearing is ugly, but i have seen worse that will still roll right. Thoughts???????
 

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