solenoid or starter?

[wayne1083]

For several years when starting my TC33D I turn the key and get a click...nothing else. I will turn the key a few more times and then it starts fine. Occasionally I will blow the 30fuse near the starter. It still starts with a few attempts turning the key but that problem has become worse over the years. Is it the solenoid or the starter? It looks like the starter will be easy to pull.


Thanks.

 

[Soundguy]

i'd check all the safety switches inline.. might have one or more giving you a poor circuit.

 

[CobyRupert]

Doesn't seem like you'd blow a fuse if the solenoid wasn't (working &) sending a whole lot of current to the starter.

 

[Soundguy]

bad connections are notorious fuse eaters...

 

[crash325]

Easy way to check is to run a jumper wire from the batt and touch it to the solenoid terminal that goes to the key switch.
Safety switches are a pain, seem to always be going out. Quite a few people have had trouble with the key switch.

I've put a flip switch on the fuel injector and am getting ready to put a push button switch on the starter circuit.

 

[jinman]

Wayne, that's a common problem on the Class II and Class III Boomers. There's a fix for the problem that includes some rewiring and an added relay to get full voltage to the solenoid and get it a better 'kick.' My tractor does it about two or three times a year and I just give the starter a good rap and it seems to be enough to make it work. The problem is partially the solenoid and partially the start relay circuit.

Read the sticky post at the top of this forum about a TC33D that won't start for the fix.

 

[buckthorn]

I also have a TC33D with the infamous "click and won't start" problem. It was intermittent, and the thing was driving me nuts. The dealer checked out the machine and couldn't reproduce the problem (I think they should have made more of an effort, and at least check all of the relevant connections -- that's not too much to ask, is it?). And then of course as soon as I got it back, it started acting up again. I decided to check the fuses, and when I got to the main fuse, I saw that there was no way for me to access it. It's blocked off from below, and too far down to access it from above. The most I could do was barely touch it and give it a good jiggle. And wouldn't you know it, the tractor's been starting without a problem ever since! But I would really like to check that main fuse more carefully -- must be a loose or bad connection someplace -- but how the heck are you supposed to access it? Does anyone have any suggestions?

 

[Train]

I have the same problem on my 1900, which is having other starting problems right now but that's another story. Sometimes I would just engage the safety switch while holding the key in start, and after several tries it would go. If it wouldn't go, I'd grab hold of the fan belt and pull it till it was past what seemed like a compression stroke. Then I'd try the key again, and it would work every time.

 

[Soundguy]

i remember at one time there was a relay add on circuit so that the power thru the NSS switch only had to activate a relay and not a starter solenoid. the relay in turn then activated the solenoid. i wonder if that same issue is what is happening here. insuficient solenoid current due to switch contacts in t he various NSS and safety switches?

 

[PILOON]

A caution here guys.
Many newer design starters are using permanent magnets as the field. Rapping with a hammer can loosen or fracture the magnet with very negative results.

Also most starter problems tend to be connection related. Terminals and grounds being the most common cause. Just because you get good readings with a volt/ohm meter is not a guarantee. While with a meter it looks good, under high amps you often get no current flow. At times you will even be able to hear a sizzling sound from a weak connection or ground.