I'm stuck! I've disconnected the hoses from the frame and the one end of the cylinder from the wheel base. How in the heck do you detach the other end of the cylinder from the frame? There is a small bolt that runs through a little plate into the frame, but removing that didn't accomplish anything. The tractor is sitting on a hill, can't move it at all until I replace the cylinder. The wife is hollering to high heaven that she wants me to move dirt pronto so she can finish her landscaping. I'm contemplating asking her to hold the back wheel still while I release the brake, so before I get to that point, would somebody give me some advice on how to finish removing the cylinder? Thanks:laughing:
NH 1520 - removing the steering cylinder.
- Thread starter Mowdyman
- Start date
Halftrack
Platinum Member
That bolt holding the small plate is a retainer bolt for the plate. The plate has a rod on the other side of it which secures the end of the cylinder to the frame. Try to rotate the plate and work the rod out of the frame. Muscle, penetrating fluid and a pry bar may be necessary. The first thing to do is tap the plate to rotate it with a hammer and punch or chisel. Once you get it rotating, you should be able to work it out of the socket. Been there done that. Use Never seize on reassembly. Hope its cooler where you are at, its still 90 here in northern IN.
The end of the rod is visible through the other side of the plate. So if I rotate the plate around towards the back of the tractor, then I should be able to work the plate back and forth enough to work the rod out? But isn't the plate the only thing that connects the cylinder to the frame? The rod doesn't go up through the cylinder and into the frame, just into the cylinder. It was dark here in Mississippi by the time I got your reply so ill have to wait until tomorrow afternoon to look at it again. And I wish it would cool down to 90. Temp should reach 94 tomorrow with about 90% humidity.
Okay, I see exactly what you were talking about. I was able to start the plate rotating after a dozen busted knuckles and many, many words I don't say around the kids. The plate is rotated off the frame. and is sitting at a 90 degree angle to the cylinder. Do I continue to rotate the plate and the rod will work out or once it is away from the frame, I use the plate to work the rod out by forcing it down?
Halftrack
Platinum Member
You are correct with your last statement/question. The rod or as Messicks parts diagram for the front axle describes it as a "pin" goes through the eye at the end of the cylinder to secure it. Obviously this has rusted in place as my TC 33 did and took a lot of work to loosen and remove. Just to clear up the picture, how was the cylinder damage? Did the piston rod break or bend and that is the reason you are removing it?
Sorry, I have been busy at work and haven't responded till now. I managed to bend the piston rod on my TC 33 a coulpe of years ago and went through what you are going through now. Ended up replacing the cylinder with a new one $$$$. Messicks.com has the parts diagram for your 1520 (2 or 4wd) and will give you an idea of the replacement cost. They also show upgraded replacements which may be beefier. The other option is taking it to a hydraulic cylinder shop and having it overhauled. Again, sorry for the delay.
Sorry, I have been busy at work and haven't responded till now. I managed to bend the piston rod on my TC 33 a coulpe of years ago and went through what you are going through now. Ended up replacing the cylinder with a new one $$$$. Messicks.com has the parts diagram for your 1520 (2 or 4wd) and will give you an idea of the replacement cost. They also show upgraded replacements which may be beefier. The other option is taking it to a hydraulic cylinder shop and having it overhauled. Again, sorry for the delay.