TC35D Can't engage PTO

[felixedo]

Greetings-
I have a TC35D with HST and about 215 hours (insert cracks about driving in parades, etc here ).
I can't engage the PTO. It was a little stiff in and out the last time I used it, just a couple of days ago, but now the lever won't budge. The linkage to the gear box appears to be free, but I haven't done any detail debugging, yet. I looked for a possible grease zerk that I may have been missing, but couldn't find anything.

Does anyone have experience with problems in this part of the machine? For what it's worth, I have the same problem with the 4WD, but since I don't ever really need to take it out of 4WD, I never bothered much with it. Both linkages are on the same side of the machine.

Thanks in advance .

[tcreeley]

I don't know about your set up, but on my 9X3 gear tractor (TC-30), my PTO lever hates to budge. I do a lot of shifting on the column, the 3- lo, med, hi ranges and make sure the clutch is flat down - then it slips in. Mine gets better with use. First time after the winter- it does not want to move.
Good luck with yours.

[felixedo]

I don't know about your set up, but on my 9X3 gear tractor (TC-30), my PTO lever hates to budge. I do a lot of shifting on the column, the 3- lo, med, hi ranges and make sure the clutch is flat down - then it slips in. Mine gets better with use. First time after the winter- it does not want to move.
Good luck with yours.

Thanks, Tcreeley- I saw several posts similar with gear driven tractors. Nothing on HST's. I don't know if the PTO engagement is different, but I have no clutch to adjust.

[jinman]

I think I may know at least part of your problem. All three levers on the left gray plastic side console have a common pivot point tied together with a shaft about 5" long (item 20 below). If you look down between your seat and the gray side panel all the way to the blue platform, you will see one end of the shaft sticking out and bolted to the platform. The other end has a similar bolt. What you need to do is remove the gray plastic side panel so you have open access and can remove that shaft, clean it, and lube it up good. To remove the panel, you need to remove 3 bolts from the bottom side of the fender (16mm, I think). When I removed mine, I had plenty of room for a ratchet and socket. After the bolts are removed, just pull the rubber ends off the levers so the slots will fit over the ends as the panel is removed.


In the illustration below, the PTO lever is item 8 that attaches to the lever (item 34) and finally to the actuator lever (item 9). The actuator lever has an ear that sticks out to operate the PTO engaged light on your dash and logic for operator safety. On the end of the shaft it fits over the input to the PTO hydraulic valve (red arrow). If you look at item 9, you'll see the roll pin, item 5. When you engage your PTO, all you are doing is allowing hydraulic pressure to actuate the the PTO clutch/brake assy.



In addition to binding of the shaft mentioned above, you could have binding internally in the PTO hydraulic valve. There are two manufacturers of that valve. One seems to be trouble-free and the other may bind up due to un-use and weather related corrosion. If you have to gain access to that valve, there is a square cutout in the platform below the seat. You have to remove the operator's seat and then you'll see the PTO valve on top of the transmission case. Don't just arbitrarily remove this valve. It has two tubes on the bottom that go into the transmission casing and clutch body. Removal should be your last resort and then done carefully. I think you should be able to work the shaft on that valve and get it loosened, if it is stuck, without removing the valve body.



What you are experiencing is common for tractors with extremely low hours over many years. Levers, pedals, and controls are meant to be exercised regularly. You should make a mental note to yourself to operate all these levers at least once per month. Good luck with your maintenance. If you are careful, you'll be back in business in no time.

[felixedo]

Jim- Thanks for the detailed explanation. If I have to get into the valve, am I looking at parts replacement or cleanup with a wire brush? I see from the diagrams I should at least expect to replace the O-rings. The best plan is probably to disconnect the linkage and see if the valves operate freely with a pair of pliers.
I don't live on the property and it's fairly remote. A three hour project can extend to a couple of weeks if I don't plan a head for parts and tools.

[jinman]

What has happened in the past with the valve is the actuator rod/spool will bind and not turn. The problem really has nothing to do with the tubes going into the transmission. There's a "C" lock ring on one end of the shaft opposite where the actuator lever attaches. At most, I'd think you might remove the lock ring and jog the shaft a bit to aid in loosening. I know one other person had a binding valve, but I never have and doubt you will either. I think you'll find that lever pivot rod to be the culprit. I would not even remove the seat nor worry about the hydraulic valve until I cleaned and lubed up that pivot. I think that's all you'll have to do. If you do that and it still won't move, post back and I'll load you some more detailed illustrations.

[felixedo]

Thanks for the tip. That fix ended up being so easy, I'm almost embarrassed to have needed help. Just had to access the shaft ends and hit them with some WD-40. Works better than ever!

[jimmysisson]

You may want to get a more long lasting lube in there; WD40 has little lubricating durability.
Jim

[Papasmirf]

FYI, in 1975, WD40 people came to a factory that I worked at to do some investigative work on a personnel problem we were having. During there three day visit we lead a lot about their product. WD40 is not and has never been designed as a lubricant. It's purpose is for cleaning and dissipation of moisture. For your usage you may use a silicon based lubricant or maybe white or lithium based grease. You can find both in spray or tube applications.