Oil & Fuel TC-25D Barely Keep it Running

[W8BYA]

The TC25D does not have a fuel delivery pump before the injector pump. The system is gravity fed I think. The fuel tank sits above the fuel filter, which sits above the injector pump. The 3 output lines from the injector pump do go up above the pump to the actual injectors. I will be taking the rubber line off the injector pump that comes from the fuel filter/inspection bowl to ensure fuel is able to gush out of it. If there is plenty of fuel flow into the pump I guess I might be hosed then and might need to have the tractor serviced. I really, really hate the thought of that as I heard even a rebuilt injector pump can be over $1300.

 

[DieselMonk]

My NH1030 has a fuel delivery pump. Anyway, I re read the whole thread and I am not convinced that the injector pump isn't air locked inside. To let the air out of the injector pump, you have to open the bleeder screw on the pump itself, not cracking the output lines. The bleeder screw should be around the 3 output lines. Try that.

 

[W8BYA]

Thank you for looking things over with a fresh set of eye's. I have tried to drain using that exact pump drain plug but did it at the injectors as well since I removed the lines off of the pump itself and think I had air every where. Hopefully in a few days after the holiday I can get back out there and mess with it. First I need to make sure I got tons of fuel going to the pump as suggested above.

Now a real dumb question.....if the engine is not able to run will it be enough to crack the main pump bleed plug with just the starter cranking over the engine or does the engine need to be running on it's own? Also, how long does one need to crack that bolt open? When I have done so in the past I never saw signs of air or bubbles and just let fuel gush out for 10 sec or so then sealed it back up.

 

[Jerry/MT]

Thank you for looking things over with a fresh set of eye's. I have tried to drain using that exact pump drain plug but did it at the injectors as well since I removed the lines off of the pump itself and think I had air every where. Hopefully in a few days after the holiday I can get back out there and mess with it. First I need to make sure I got tons of fuel going to the pump as suggested above.

Now a real dumb question.....if the engine is not able to run will it be enough to crack the main pump bleed plug with just the starter cranking over the engine or does the engine need to be running on it's own? Also, how long does one need to crack that bolt open? When I have done so in the past I never saw signs of air or bubbles and just let fuel gush out for 10 sec or so then sealed it back up.

You should be able to bleed the pump with gravity flow not while ruunning or cranking. Have you read the owners manual to make sure you are doing the fuel system bleeding properly?

 

[ruffdog]

I have read the mentioned post but suspect that the fuel selenoid may not be the issue since it will try to fire up and at times at least run very rough. How long should each of the fuel lines be cracked open to properly purge any air in the system? I have cracked mine open for around 15 seconds before moving onto the next one.

If your fuel shut-off solenoid was going bad and was not energizing fully, wouldn't it be restricting the pump flow? I have not had to replace mine YET but many have and there is plenty of reading on the subject.

 

[diesel3]

either trash in injector pump or injector pump is going . should have fuel on all three lines

 

[W8BYA]

Well, I thought I would go outside and take advantage of the nice warm 25 degrees and try a few of the great suggestions and observations by others here. While smelling turkey in the background I first inspected the black rubber lines from the tank down into the fuel filter bowl and from the bowl to the pump and they all look in great shape. I next opened up the bleed bolt on the injector pump and noticed what I thought was a healthy amount of fuel coming out. I let it pour out for about 30 seconds. Hard to say what the flow rate was but I would guess it would fill a shot glass in 2 seconds. The way the hose clamps are set it is not real easy to remove the lines off the filter bowl etc to ensure they are 100% clear. I still may have to force myself to do this. In any event, I then closed the bleed bolt and tried to start the engine. The cold temp did not help. With each preheat and turning of the ignition switch I could tell she was firing up but would not run on it's own. I tried about 15 times when something in the main electrical system let loose, now the entire electrical system is dead. I checked the main 30A fuse and it was ok by eye but need to ohm it out to make sure. Gonna leave it alone until after the holiday and maybe some warmer weather. Also need to look at manual to see where the selenoid is located as I could not identify one easilly by sight as I looked over the pump.

 

[Jerry/MT]

If your fuel shut-off solenoid was going bad and was not energizing fully, wouldn't it be restricting the pump flow? I have not had to replace mine YET but many have and there is plenty of reading on the subject.

Generally speaking, solenoid valves either work or they don't. They don't generally fail partially closed. Having said that, I've learned a long time ago that you can never say the something will never fail in a certain way. Never is a long time!

 

[DieselMonk]

When you started the engine, did you do that with half throttle? Try to put a healthy shot of Power Service (white bottle, double the amount that sez on the bottle) into the fuel and start it. Don't do full throttle!!! Not good on a cold engine.
As for the electrical problem: some tractors have a fuse link. Maybe that is gone... it would render the whole tractor without power. Measure the power on the fuel shutoff solenoid and see if there is a problem.

 

[ruffdog]

Others have had problems with the relay that controls the solenoid. Google " boomer fuel solenoid " and a pdf file should be there. It is a copy of a manual for a TC40 for testing the solenoid. By the way, it is the round tube shaped thing coming out of the back of the fuel pump. It should have 1 wire attached to it.