Adding rear remotes to my 1920

   / Adding rear remotes to my 1920 #1  

ErikVann

Silver Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2011
Messages
128
Location
Bernardston, MA
Tractor
Massey ferguson 1742
Hello, For some time now I have been lamenting the fact my 1920 does not have rear hydraulics. I would very much like to add them. Nh wants over $1k for a 2 spool kit. I have seen aftermarket kits like the following from yesterdays tractor. This is a 3 spool kit with top and tilt cylinders. seems to be considerable value there! would a kit like this mount in the same way the NH kit mounts on the three poiint hitch valve? or would I have to tap in to ports from the diverter block or loader valve? if so which ports would I need to tap? here is a link to the valve kit from yesterdays tractor.
thanks for the help
Erik
Ford 1920 Hydraulic cylinder Kit (HCKF293)l
 
   / Adding rear remotes to my 1920 #2  
If you have a loader valve with a PB port, and can find the adapter, you can add a set of remotes for much less.

Or find the path of the fluid and interrupt the flow. The remote valve will install in series with the flow path.
 
   / Adding rear remotes to my 1920
  • Thread Starter
#3  
I would have to find an adapter specific to the 7108 loader on the tractor? And then run soft hose to the back?
 
   / Adding rear remotes to my 1920 #4  
I would have to find an adapter specific to the 7108 loader on the tractor? And then run soft hose to the back?

I know this is a 4 year old thread.
Does anyone have have an answer to this dilemma?
I have the same question.
 
   / Adding rear remotes to my 1920 #5  
If I'm not mistaken, the hydraulic system in a 1920 is similar to my 1620. The easiest way to add a remote valve with no fancy adapter kit is to just splice into the return line from the FEL valve. Run the return line from FEL into inlet of new valve, and outlet of new valve goes to where FEL return line used to go directly to. Take a look at my thread for pictures.
 
   / Adding rear remotes to my 1920 #6  
If I'm not mistaken, the hydraulic system in a 1920 is similar to my 1620. The easiest way to add a remote valve with no fancy adapter kit is to just splice into the return line from the FEL valve. Run the return line from FEL into inlet of new valve, and outlet of new valve goes to where FEL return line used to go directly to. Take a look at my thread for pictures.
If this is a typical open center system...The "return" line will not provide pressurized flow...I think what you mean is the power beyond line to the inlet port on the new valve...??
 
   / Adding rear remotes to my 1920 #7  
If this is a typical open center system...The "return" line will not provide pressurized flow...I think what you mean is the power beyond line to the inlet port on the new valve...??
No, in an open center system, no hydraulic pressure is built until a spool is moved and the fluid path is changed and it has something to push against. Otherwise it goes from the pump into the valve, then right back out to the tank. So if you take the return line from an open center valve and feed another open center valve in series, then return to tank, the second valve will work just like the first. It is exactly the same as having a single 5 spool stacked valve vs a 2 spool valve and then a 3 spool plumbed in series. All the spools inside a valve are plumbed in series anyway, so it makes no difference how many additional spool valves you plumb in series as long as they're all open center.

What a power beyond sleeve does is change the fluid flow path. When you install the sleeve, the power beyond port now becomes the "return" line of the first valve. The original return to tank line is now only used when a spool in that valve is dumping fluid (such as the other side of a cylinder you're extending).

Power beyond is extremely misunderstood in open center systems. The main (and only real) benefit of adding a remote valve using a power beyond connection is simply that it saves you having to mess with your original return line. That's it, nothing more, nothing less. Just install a sleeve, run a line to your new remote valve, run line from that valve to tank. Done. The loader valve on my 1620 didn't have power beyond so my only option was to reroute the return to feed my remote, and then run the return from the remote to the original return point.
 
   / Adding rear remotes to my 1920 #8  
No, in an open center system, no hydraulic pressure is built until a spool is moved and the fluid path is changed and it has something to push against. Otherwise it goes from the pump into the valve, then right back out to the tank. So if you take the return line from an open center valve and feed another open center valve in series, then return to tank, the second valve will work just like the first. It is exactly the same as having a single 5 spool stacked valve vs a 2 spool valve and then a 3 spool plumbed in series. All the spools inside a valve are plumbed in series anyway, so it makes no difference how many additional spool valves you plumb in series as long as they're all open center.

What a power beyond sleeve does is change the fluid flow path. When you install the sleeve, the power beyond port now becomes the "return" line of the first valve. The original return to tank line is now only used when a spool in that valve is dumping fluid (such as the other side of a cylinder you're extending).

Power beyond is extremely misunderstood in open center systems. The main (and only real) benefit of adding a remote valve using a power beyond connection is simply that it saves you having to mess with your original return line. That's it, nothing more, nothing less. Just install a sleeve, run a line to your new remote valve, run line from that valve to tank. Done. The loader valve on my 1620 didn't have power beyond so my only option was to reroute the return to feed my remote, and then run the return from the remote to the original return point.

I am mentally thick on this hydraulic stuff!
I just do NOT understand!
I recently had a tilt cylinder installed on my 1920.
The guy took off the return pipe from the loader valve to the hydraulic block at the bottom of the tractor.
Then.... he connected the return from the loader valve, to the new tilt valve, and then the outlet from that new valve, back to the return fitting on the tractor.
Thus he intercepted loader return fluid to operate the new tilt valve.
It works, but ......ONLY if the loader valve is being used simultaneously, and returning fluid to the tractor.
Isn't there a way to plumb this so that the loader valve does not need to be operated (moving fluid) while concurrently operating the new valve?
I find it a bit of a PITA to use the way it is.
 
   / Adding rear remotes to my 1920 #9  
He tapped into the wrong line, that's the only explanation for the behavior you are experiencing. I plumbed my 1620 exactly as I've described (and shown in my thread here in this section) and my remotes work perfectly without having to touch the loader valve.

What you need to do is some redneck hydraulic flow testing. Follow the pressure line coming off of the pump. It should run to a manifold of some sort. There should be two lines from the manifold to the FEL valve. Remove one of the two lines and crank, but don't start, the tractor. Fluid should pump out of either the manifold or the line. You want the fluid to flow out of the line if you want your remote valve to be downstream of the FEL valve. So when you've established which line is the return, now run that to your remote valve and run its return to where you just disconnected the line at the manifold.

Does that make sense?
 
   / Adding rear remotes to my 1920 #10  
He tapped into the wrong line, that's the only explanation for the behavior you are experiencing. I plumbed my 1620 exactly as I've described (and shown in my thread here in this section) and my remotes work perfectly without having to touch the loader valve.

What you need to do is some redneck hydraulic flow testing. Follow the pressure line coming off of the pump. It should run to a manifold of some sort. There should be two lines from the manifold to the FEL valve. Remove one of the two lines and crank, but don't start, the tractor. Fluid should pump out of either the manifold or the line. You want the fluid to flow out of the line if you want your remote valve to be downstream of the FEL valve. So when you've established which line is the return, now run that to your remote valve and run its return to where you just disconnected the line at the manifold.

Does that make sense?

I am not sure.
I think there are at least 3 lines from the manifold to the FEL valve.
I will check, when I get to the tractor tomorrow.
 
 
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