NH Class II Warranty Issues (Fast Help Needed)

[Spencer]

Guys, I am bringing my TC33D in this week for some minor (hopefully) issues. My 2 year warranty runs out soon so I want to get everything taken care of. I have tried to keep a list of issues over the last two years but just in case I forgot something I thought I would ask you guys what your experiences have been.

Here are the issues that I have had
My rear PTO is hard to engage and disengage . My dealer told me that you some times have to play with the clutch a few times before you can get the PTO to engage but I still don't think mine is right. When I visited another TBN member, Danny in Southern Indiana (Mosey), his lever was smooth as silk going in and out. Me having a hard time engaging the PTO is a nuisance, but me not being able to easily disengage the PTO is a safety issue.

My 3-point lever is too stiff. It is hard to make minor adjustments to the 3-point hitch because the lever takes so much force to move it that when if finally moves it moves too much. It's just hard to control.

The 540 RPM light does not work. This is just another nuisance issue. The light has never worked and I am assuming it is just a simple light bulb that needs to be replaced.

The dash gets condensation behind it. Another nuisance issue. I don't know if it is doing any harm or not but I would rather that it didn't happen. I have read here where others have had the same problem.

My battery leaked. This caused some corrosion on the top of the battery as well as the tray that holds the battery. Also some of the corrosion seemed to get onto the radiator and that worries me. The hood latch also seems to have some corrosion on it that might have been caused by the same problem

My parking brake warning light stays on. This started a few months ago. I think it is just a minor adjustment but I would rather they took care of it. I don't want to adjust it myself and find out that the brakes are partially sticking or something.

A slight but noticeable shimmy when I am driving. This is the item that worries me the most. My dealer told me to check all the lug nuts on the wheels to make sure they are all tight. I know I checked them right around the time I first noticed the slight shimmy but I will re-check them before I send it in for service. I don't have any paved surfaces on my property other than a 20 foot apron in front of the attached garage. I am always driving the tractor on dirt. like through my woods or down our dirt driveway. So the shimmy is hard to notice and it could have been going on for longer than I know. It does it whether the front wheels are engaged or not. The only time I ever dis-engage the front wheels is when I drive it down the road to the gas station and I have only done that twice. So the tractor stays with the front wheels engaged for 99% of the time but that shouldn't have caused any problems because I am always on soft surfaces like dirt, sand, and some gravel. After I first noticed the shimmy I disengaged the front wheels and drove it across the street to the parking lot of the school. The shimmy was noticeable on the pavement just as it was on my dirt driveway. I don't notice it when I am doing tractor work, it's only noticeable when I am driving in a straight line and on a relatively flat/smooth surface. I don't have filled tires but I do have rear wheel weights. I guess I should take those off too to see if that helps or not.

This last issue is kind of strange. I have a Bush Hog rotary cutter (SQ600). I have had the rotary cutter for almost the same amount of time as I have had the tractor. The last time that I used the cutter the momentum from the cutter seemed to propel my tractor forward after I removed my foot from the hydro pedal. I had to press down hard on the brake pedal to stop the tractor from moving forward. I have heard you guys talk about over-running clutches so I asked my dealer if I needed one of those. He said that those were only neccassary on geared tractors and that hydros shouldn't need it. I just don't understand why it never did it before and then it started doing it. It certainly startled me the first time it did it. I haven't had the rotary cutter back on since then but it did do it multiple times that day.

Well thats about it, nothing major as you can see. I hope that the shimmy problem is something simple like my wheel weights or something. I have seen mention of other problems like the tilt/telescoping steering but I don't think I have ever tried to adjust that so I don't know if I am affected by it or not. I would appreciate you guys posting about your experiences with any of these issues and other issues that you may of had that I should check out. I am also curious how you guys got treated with the battery issue. I have never had my 7308 loader off the tractor so I think I am going to have them take that off while its there and make sure it goes back on right. I appreciate any comments or advice you guys have.

Thanks, Spence

 

[Typhoon]

Ok, I have a TC29D. Here are a few notes about my tractor.
1. My t.p. hitch lever is the same way. You almost have to "Tap" it to get it to move, then it jerks. Very hard to control.
2. My PTO engage lever is the same as yours. Takes two hands sometimes to force it to move.
3. My dash also gets condensation behind it. Mostly in the winter.
4. My battery leaked as well. I am ordering an optima soon.
Hope some of this helps.

 

[MikePA]

My TC25D turned 2 in October.

My rear PTO is hard to engage and disengage. No problems here. I'd have the dealer adjust it.

My 3-point lever is too stiff. This is adjustable. There was a thread about it. I adjusted mine because of the same problem you're seeing. Follow the lever to its pivot point. It's held in place by a nut with a cotter pin through the nut. Pull the pin, loosen the nut a little, replace the cotter pin. Made all the difference.

The 540 RPM light does not work. Don't have this problem.

The dash gets condensation behind it. So does mine, in the winter. So far, it's always gone away after sitting in the garage overnight.

My battery leaked. Do you mean 'cottage cheese' around the positive terminal? If so, mine did as well. Replaced with battery from TSC after cleaning and repainting the battery tray. I'd get the dealer to replace the battery and inspect the area.

My parking brake warning light stays on. Have not had this problem.

A slight but noticeable shimmy when I am driving. No shimmy here.

The last time that I used the cutter the momentum from the cutter seemed to propel my tractor forward after I removed my foot from the hydro pedal. I had to press down hard on the brake pedal to stop the tractor from moving forward. Have not had this problem with my Woods BB60.

 

[thcri]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Guys, I am bringing my TC33D in this week for some minor (hopefully) issues. My 2 year warranty runs out soon so I want to get everything taken care of. I have tried to keep a list of issues over the last two years but just in case I forgot something I thought I would ask you guys what your experiences have been.

Here are the issues that I have had
My rear PTO is hard to engage and disengage . My dealer told me that you some times have to play with the clutch a few times before you can get the PTO to engage but I still don't think mine is right. When I visited another TBN member, Danny in Southern Indiana (Mosey), his lever was smooth as silk going in and out. Me having a hard time engaging the PTO is a nuisance, but me not being able to easily disengage the PTO is a safety issue.

I don't have this problem on mine. Have clutch it some sometimes but that is it.

My 3-point lever is too stiff. It is hard to make minor adjustments to the 3-point hitch because the lever takes so much force to move it that when if finally moves it moves too much. It's just hard to control.

There is an adjustment you can make to fix that. Follow the linkage down to where it actually goes into the tractor. You can take a cotter key out and back outer bolt out and put cotter key back in.

The 540 RPM light does not work. This is just another nuisance issue. The light has never worked and I am assuming it is just a simple light bulb that needs to be replaced.

Mine works fine.
The dash gets condensation behind it. Another nuisance issue. I don't know if it is doing any harm or not but I would rather that it didn't happen. I have read here where others have had the same problem.

I have this problem somewhat, but have not worried too much about it. I may ask the dealer to give me one and I will replace under warranty yet.

My battery leaked. This caused some corrosion on the top of the battery as well as the tray that holds the battery. Also some of the corrosion seemed to get onto the radiator and that worries me. The hood latch also seems to have some corrosion on it that might have been caused by the same problem

I had this problem. My dealer just gave me a gel battery?? Under warranty if less than two years old, mine is.

My parking brake warning light stays on. This started a few months ago. I think it is just a minor adjustment but I would rather they took care of it. I don't want to adjust it myself and find out that the brakes are partially sticking or something.

Mine does not do this.

A slight but noticeable shimmy when I am driving. This is the item that worries me the most. My dealer told me to check all the lug nuts on the wheels to make sure they are all tight. I know I checked them right around the time I first noticed the slight shimmy but I will re-check them before I send it in for service. I don't have any paved surfaces on my property other than a 20 foot apron in front of the attached garage. I am always driving the tractor on dirt. like through my woods or down our dirt driveway. So the shimmy is hard to notice and it could have been going on for longer than I know. It does it whether the front wheels are engaged or not. The only time I ever dis-engage the front wheels is when I drive it down the road to the gas station and I have only done that twice. So the tractor stays with the front wheels engaged for 99% of the time but that shouldn't have caused any problems because I am always on soft surfaces like dirt, sand, and some gravel. After I first noticed the shimmy I disengaged the front wheels and drove it across the street to the parking lot of the school. The shimmy was noticeable on the pavement just as it was on my dirt driveway. I don't notice it when I am doing tractor work, it's only noticeable when I am driving in a straight line and on a relatively flat/smooth surface. I don't have filled tires but I do have rear wheel weights. I guess I should take those off too to see if that helps or not.

Mine does not do this.


This last issue is kind of strange. I have a Bush Hog rotary cutter (SQ600). I have had the rotary cutter for almost the same amount of time as I have had the tractor. The last time that I used the cutter the momentum from the cutter seemed to propel my tractor forward after I removed my foot from the hydro pedal. I had to press down hard on the brake pedal to stop the tractor from moving forward. I have heard you guys talk about over-running clutches so I asked my dealer if I needed one of those. He said that those were only neccassary on geared tractors and that hydros shouldn't need it. I just don't understand why it never did it before and then it started doing it. It certainly startled me the first time it did it. I haven't had the rotary cutter back on since then but it did do it multiple times that day.

If you have Hydro you should not have a problem with this.


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[Boomerboy]

Ok, Ok . . . . . . . I have a TC29D also, and all the same issues as Typhoon. But I love her so. Help me if I'm Tractor-whipped!

 

[Spencer]

Just a quick update. I just got off the phone with the service manager to check on my TC33D. He said that it should be finished up today. My biggest concern is the slight shimmy/vibration that I described in my first post. He said that he had to replace my hydraulic pump and that took care of 80% of my hydraulic problems. Of course I wondered what the other 20% of my problems were and he said they were just adjustments that needed to be made. He couldn't talk long but he said he would call me back later today or tomorrow. I'm certainly glad that he replaced the pump under warranty but I am wondering why it needed replacement in only two years. I was talking to my brother-in-law last night and he thought that I had "gauled" (not sure on the spelling) my hydraulic disks. He asked me if I always filled the hydraulic filters up with fluid before installing them. I told him that I followed the instructions in my owners manual precisely and they do not mention filling up the filters with fluid before installing them. He said that if you don't fill them up you could get an air lock in your hydraulic system and that will gaul the disks. Anybody have any opinions on this?

 

[MikePA]

<font color="blue"> I told him that I followed the instructions in my owners manual precisely and they do not mention filling up the filters with fluid before installing them. </font>
I don't know about galling the discs, but I always fill up a filter before installing it. If I can't fill it up, because of its orientation, I put as much oil in the filter as I can without it spilling out.

 

[PineRidge]

Mike is this something that you decided to do yourself or did you specifically read somewhere in the manual to fill the filters with fresh oil prior to installing them?

 

[MikePA]

<font color="blue"> Mike is this something that you decided to do yourself or did you specifically read somewhere in the manual to fill the filters with fresh oil prior to installing them? </font>
I didn't read it in the manual. Maybe it's there, but I don't recall seeing it.

This is the way I've changed oil filters for as long as I can recall. I must have picked it up from a magazine or a TV show. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

It's particularly easy to do with the hydraulic filters since they are vertical. Plus the big one I bet can hold a quart. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[PineRidge]

Actually between the 2 hydraulic filters I think it was closer to a gallon on my TC-40D.