1993 Ford 1920 Engine Failure

[Mr Majestic]

Hello everyone!

My 1993 Ford 1920 SSS 4WD needs an engine rebuild. Mice ate through the oil pressure sensor wire and I wasn't alerted the engine was low on oil. While snowblowing earlier this month, the engine started chirping/squeeking/knocking and blowing oil/smoke out the valve cover vent tube. After limping back to my garage, I determined the oil level was not registering on the dip stick. It took multiple quarts of oil to get the oil level back to full on the dipstick. Though the engine turns over, it smokes badly and doesn't want to start.

The engine only has 300 hours on it and has always been kept inside an old garage (where the mice live).

I'm totally sick about the stupid situation I'm in

I've taken half the tractor apart but cannot exactly figure out how to get the engine (Shibaura N844) out of the frame. Do in need to separate the front of the tractor from the back half at the engine/clutch mating surface? The Ford service manual I bought doesn't exactly show how to remove the engine.

Once the engine is removed from the tractor, I'm not sure how much of it I should take apart to look for damage. I'm very mechanically inclined but haven't repaired a diesel engine before. Obviously, the engine ran low on oil and I suspect it has spun a lower end bearing. Does anyone have an opinion regarding what other parts may have been damaged and should be checked...while I have it apart?

Any and all advice is appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
MM in Michigan

 

[90cummins]

That stinks!!!
Once removed the entire engine needs to be torn down and inspected.
Crank damage and piston/cylinder damage is most likely.
Genuine parts will be expensive but worth it based on your description of the condition.
Not intending to insult or appoint blame to anyone but the oil level should be checked every time you use it.
Even if the oil pressure light worked damage may have been done by the time you noticed it.
Time has a way of slipping by and we lose track of details such as maintenance.
Sorry for your woes!

90cummins

 

[pmsmechanic]

I once had a look at a 466 IHC engine out of a truck that the oil plug had fallen out of. They noticed it before it got to the point of your engine. I was amazed at the lack of damage inside the engine. The crank was ok. Not great but ok. One piston had pretty rough scratches in the lower cylinder area but all in all considering that the oil plug had fallen out going down the road while the truck was working there wasn't a lot of fatal damage. They got another seven years out of that motor. It helped that it was only used seasonally but I think it is still impressive.

As to your situation. I really don't think your going to be this lucky. If you can pull the oil pan off without removing the engine I would do that. Next take off a rod bearing cap furthest away from the oil pump as that bearing will have run out of oil first. If you can hook a scratch in the crankshaft with your fingernail then the crank needs to be rebuilt. While you are in there look for scratches in the lower cylinder walls. Again do the fingernail test. If the cylinders are scored too then you need to reassess the whole situation. The fact that the engine doesn't want to start is not a good indicator on the cylinder walls.

About now would be the time to phone a engine rebuilder or a dealer and ask for a quote on a rebuilt engine. Start looking for a used engine from a wrecker or it might even be cheaper to look for a different tractor

If you can still try to start the engine I would while cranking give it a one second shot of ether in the air cleaner. The trick is to give enough ether to start the engine but not enough to make it rattle when it starts. You might need to give several shots of ether in quick succession in order for the engine to start. If the engine has glow plugs do NOT wait for the glow plug light to go out as there will be engine damage if the glow plugs ignite the ether before it gets into the combustion chamber. The best would be to disconnect them if there is a chance they might go on. If the engine starts with ether then let it warm up if it doesn't have any death rattles. If it starts after being shut off warm then there is a bit of hope. However if a subsequent start cold still requires ether then the engine is not developing enough compression to start.

Now keep in mind that this is what I would do. I'm a pretty experienced mechanic and I'm not scared to do the things I've mentioned. If your reluctant to try ether for example than get some one who is more experienced to help you.

As far as pulling the engine out goes. If your using an I&T service manual they assume that you know things and don't tell you any more than necessary. They are good manuals just don't expect to told every step of the procedure. They assume that you can figure that out for your self. If you want detailed step by step procedures then look for a factory service manual or a pdf of one online.

I don't mind helping people out over the phone. I do it all the time. If you want to go that way then pm me with your number and I'll either call back or give you my number.

 

[90cummins]

Starting the engine again is pointless and risks further damage, it will not heal itself!!
Continue the teardown and repair any damage, do not skimp on this.
The 20 series tractors are some of the best Ford ever made, very reliable and user friendly. I know I have a 1720 which has been fantastic with 2500 hours.
Use original parts or proven after market parts to ensure it remains trouble free for thousands of hours.
The cost may discourage you but this is definitely worth repairing.
90cummins

 

[pmsmechanic]

Starting the engine again is pointless and risks further damage, it will not heal itself!!
90cummins

My thoughts on this was that it will show if the engine does or does not need pistons because there is a slim chance for that. To run it a bit under no load, if there are no death rattles will add very little additional damage to the crank or pistons. I do have a bit of experience in these kind of situations.

 

[RickB]

My thoughts on this was that it will show if the engine does or does not need pistons because there is a slim chance for that. To run it a bit under no load, if there are no death rattles will add very little additional damage to the crank or pistons. I do have a bit of experience in these kind of situations.

Any additional damage is too much. There is no good reason to start that engine before tearing it down. That's what my experience has taught me. It's already breathing heavily from the vent tube. That means rings at a minimum, and the knocking means pistons or bearings at a minimum. One more run could be the end of the crank or the block. I repeat, there is no good reason to start it.

 

[pmsmechanic]

Any additional damage is too much. There is no good reason to start that engine before tearing it down. That's what my experience has taught me. It's already breathing heavily from the vent tube. That means rings at a minimum, and the knocking means pistons or bearings at a minimum. One more run could be the end of the crank or the block. I repeat, there is no good reason to start it.

I disagree

 

[RickB]

I disagree

That's fine, it makes the world go round. We can let the OP pick his own path.

 

[Egon]

Surely hope the OP does not start it.

Almost brand new engine does not need a rod thru the block. Note I'm not a mechanic.

 

[pmsmechanic]

So Mr Majestic where are you at with this? I'm kind of curious.