New Guy with a Ford 1700

[msg1956]

Hello Everyone

I am another new guy, with all kinds of questions. I have posted a short intro in the introduction forum for those who are interested.

I own a 1983 Ford 1700 tractor for the past 25 years or so. I use it mainly for work around our backyard farm, and plowing snow in my very difficult driveway. Anyway, I finally managed to blow the clutch yesterday. I am truly surprised it lasted this long. While I try not to abuse the tractor, my driveway is a real bear to plow, and I have used the tractor for so many projects that probably would have been better handled by a bigger machine. I have no idea how good a machine the New Hollands are, but this Ford tractor has been amazing!

Unfortunately, I don't have a garage, and will do most of the repair work on my own. I have the factory manuals, and am waiting for the weather to improve to start this project. Hopefully, we have seen our last large snowstorm of the season!

The tractor still moves, my problem is getting it into/out of gear. I don't know what is broken (the loader assembly blocks the inspection hole), but no matter what I have to break the machine in half to fix it. My plan is to get the tractor onto one of the few level spots in my driveway, on a sheet of plywood or two to provide a smooth, roll-able surface. Remove the loader assembly, block up the rear half, disconnect all appropriate plumbing/wiring, split the machine, and roll the front end forward with a pallet jack. I know I need to chock the front axle to keep the front end from tipping, but was wondering if anyone had any other tips that the manual doesn't cover? I never have any luck with forum search engines, always getting hundreds of results, so any links that would address my problem would also be appreciated.

I am also wondering on what repair parts to purchase. Ebay is full of clutch kits that are advertised for the 1700, all of which are around $200+-. One thing I don't want is to put in a cheap setup, only to have to do all this again in a year! But, I also don't want to pay some outrageous OEM type price. Suggestions?

Once I get the clutch finished, I have two more issues. First, the tractor is getting hard to start. It never liked to fire up in cold weather, but it is now taking a lot of starter cranking to get it to start. My usual procedure is to turn the engine over until I get some smoke from the muffler, then use the glow plugs to warm it up cylinders. When if finally starts, I get quite a bit of black smoke. I was wondering if this meant the injectors need cleaning?

Then, I need to do brakes.

Wow, that is quite a first post! Thanks for your indulgence!:wave:

 

[deerseeker001]

Welcome from Wisconsin

 

[drakefamily2]

On starting, I use the glow plugs till they turn red and then crank, starts quickly.

 

[Creamer]

Welcome! Can't help you with the splitting as I have never done one. On starting the glow plug theory is to heat up the cylinder and then put in the fuel. Having fuel in the cylinder is not good for the system and will add soot although sometimes you do need to re-heat if it did not start the first time.

 

[billybobjimmyjoejack]

It sounds as though you have a good plan to split your tractor, it is not to complicated just lots of things that need to be disconnected.
I have done mine twice and it was much easier the second time.
I would suggest that you take some pictures as you do the disassembly as a reference if needed on the reassembly.

 

[square1]

Black smoke = incomplete combustion. That may be frpm the crank first, glow plugs second, crank again starting procedure. As others have stated: Glow plugs, then crank to start

How many hours are on the tractor? Have you ever adjusted the valves (recommended 1,000 hour maintenance)? In addition to high RPM cranking and fuel, diesels need high compression to start well.

 

[msg1956]

Thanks for the replies.

Well, I have been waiting for the weather to warm up some to start this. Since there is 6" of fresh snow out there this morning, and the temps are staying in the 20s - low 30s for the next week or two, I guess I will just keep waiting!

The good news is, I have a 580K Case to plow with now that the Ford is down. The bad news is, my driveway is all sloping, and the worn tires and wide bucket of the Case make it a PITA to use for plowing.

Back to the Ford: I had tried using the glow plugs first to warm the cylinders, and it just didn't seem to help all that much. The method I described, seemed to get the engine firing much quicker than using the glow plugs first. Also, I have been doing it for many seasons, and never had the black smoke before. I guess the tractor and I are just getting old!

No, I have not adjusted the valves. Probably something I need to do at the time of this overhaul.

Something else I have noticed. The hydraulic oil is pretty milky. I really cant find any place that would allow water in, so I was thinking it was just condensation. Because it ties into the loader circuit, about the only way I can think of totally replace the oil, is to do multiple oil changes, work the loader, and change the oil again until it is clean. Any other suggestions?

Thanks!

 

[ovrszd]

I put a clutch in my 3910 this past Winter. Splitting the tractor isn't that hard if you have the equipment/tools to do it. I built a wheeled stand for the front half so it could be rolled apart from the back, which was sitting on a fixed stand that I also built. Really helps if you have a concrete floor to work on.

After getting a lot of advice, I bought a new clutch rather than a cheaper rebuilt clutch. A&I Parts was the manufacturer of the clutch. They are in Iowa. I paid just under $400 for new clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bearing. Plan on resurfacing the flywheel at the same time. Also replace the engine crankshaft seal and the front seal in the transmission. Then you won't have to go back in for another 25 years.

As for the milky oil. If the tractor is in an uncontrolled environment all the time it is constantly condensing moisture in the gear boxes as it heats and cools. You need to change the transmission oil and the hydraulic oil periodically. Put in good quality oil, not the cheapest oil you can find. If you go "big/expensive" and switch to a synthetic oil you might notice an improvement in transmission shifting and better hydraulic response.

Post your progress in a new thread and everyone will help with any questions you might have as you go along. Here's a link to a thread I posted couple months ago. Might be some helpful info in there for you.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ting/331004-ford-3910-clutch-replacement.html

 

[msg1956]

Ovrszd

Thank you for your reply. The link to your thread is going to be incredibly helpful, as the two tractors are so similar in construction. I have it bookmarked for study!:thumbsup:

I will make sure I replace EVERY seal in the bell housing while I am at it. The idea mentioned in your thread about the freeze-out plugs is also a sound piece of advise. I had a 83 Dodge pick-up that rusted thru a freeze-out plug in this exact location. What a mess!

Unfortunately, there is no chance of me doing this job either inside, or on a concrete floor. About the best I can do is a sheet or two of 3/4" plywood as a platform, and maybe an awning! My plan is to block up the rear end, and build a frame on a heavy duty pallet, bolt it to the front end, and use a pallet jack to roll it apart/together. I actually come from a pretty good background for this project. My father and I had an excavation business, and we did almost all of our own tractor maintenance. I have done some motor changes, track changes, and loads of hydraulics and wiring. My present job is with a company that manufacturers large electric industrial de-watering pumps, and use tools every day. A fellow mechanic from work has offered his help, and he will be especially handy when it is time to pull the tractor back together!

I figured the water in the oil was from condensation. It has gotten so bad it actually prevented the hydraulic system from working when the temperatures were down in the single digits. I am hoping two total oil changes will get the water out.

One thing I am really concerned with is the source for the clutch assembly. Like I said, Ebay is loaded with $200 new kits, and I get the feeling if I go to a local supply store, they will just give me something of a similar origin. Calling the New Holland dealer may just get me an overpriced aftermarket kit as well. It is sometimes hard to find OEM parts for a 1983, Japanese made tractor.

While I am at it, I am going to change the anti-freeze, oil in the front axle, fix the oil seal leak on the drive shaft, and do the brakes. Fun, Fun, Fun!:confused2:

 

[ovrszd]

I look forward to reading of your repair adventures. Keep your optimistic attitude and it will go well. I was Blessed and spoiled to have a warm concrete floored shop to do my work in. I've done a lot of work outside over the years. And much of it on dirt or plywood as well. Dedicates you to the work for sure.