Major Mouse Wiring Harness DamageTC35D

[felixedo]

I have a NH TC35D with under 300 hours. Over the years it has not been uncommon to get on the tractor and find that a mouse has lunched on a wire or two. I would trace it down and splice in a piece. This time it's different. There was a major party on my wiring harness and it is SHREDDED. I can't believe the amount of damage. A replacement harness is around $800 and that is just for 1. And just splicing in a section of red wire isn't going to do the trick this time, either. I have gone so far as to order a kit of colored wire to color match the damaged wire. New Holland does a decent job of labeling the wires, so I should be able to identify both ends of the same wire at some point.

The biggest issue is that a number of wires are chewed right down to the termination point. The relay or gang connector is there with a small nub of wire exposed. On most I can identify the color of the wire, but that is all. I am no expert at reading wiring schematics. Most of these parts no longer have the P/N visible on them, but they may have 2 or 3 of the wires identifiable. How do I identify the parts that these are, and how do I connect to them once I do? Is it possible to remove a single wire from a gang type connector and replace it?

Thanks

 

[JimRB]

They make extractor tools. Sometimes they work. Does the repair manual you have for your tractor have a wiring diagram with color codes? Sometimes they will have connections marked to the realy terminal numbers.

Do search for molex wire removal tool and you may see some videos or web pages that explain the process.

 

[Gator6x4]

Several years ago a large black snake took up residency around my garage workshop. I started to eradicate him/her but decided against it. I occassionaly see a snake skin but no mice or chewed wires on equipment.

The snake is happy, I guess. My only concern is someday I will be digging around looking for something and come up with a hand full of snake. That I am sure will lead to a trip to the house to change clothes. :laughing:

 

[truckdiagnostics]

I have built many wiring harness. You can pull the harness off and like stated above, remove the pins from the connector re-crimp and make a new harness. If you have only one manufacturer of pin/sockets/connector it would be cost effective. Chances are that will not be the case. The correct crimp toll is expensive. Then there is a learning curve to using it. Post some pics of the connectors, on some of them it will have manufacturer name. Then I can give you some better advice. FYI $800 is not bad depending on the harness.

 

[BertZegers]

I have put a "main" switch on most of my machines. Mouse can cause a short in the wiring causing fire, among other electrical fails.
If there is a harness fire you will not be able to supress it, unless you can disconnect the battery.
The power in the battery keeps igniting the harness, till disconnected. I always put the disconnect in the ground wire as close to the battery as practical, and turn it off when the machine is not in use!
Opening the hood, if you park the machine, also keeps the critters out, they don't like to be in the open.
Bert.

 

[felixedo]

First of all, thanks for the quick responses. JimRB - I do have the manual that includes the wiring diagram, but I don't seen where any terminal numbers are marked. I can't even identify most of the components I am connecting to. Some will be trial and error. I will search on that Molex tool and see if that helps.

Stay tuned for the pics, Truckdiagnostics. it will be next weekend before I get back to the property.

I'm not that far in yet, but at some point I may think a fire would have been the better solution.
I will keep you posted, and continue to be open to ideas.

 

[wyeguy]

For some time (decades) some manufacturers have used vegetable oil in the production of insulation for wiring. I'm sure it's cheaper or more eco friendly or something...
Anyway, this insulation must be like candy for rodents, squirrels, and rabbits. My mechanic sees this all the time, and I've had trouble with rabbits under an old pickup I had. Some cable TV companies are using wire that has insulation infused with hot peppers to keep the squirrels from chewing up their cable.
If I had continuing trouble of this type, I'd look into making a light spicy spray, or something like it, to control the pests.

 

[felixedo]

I have posted photos of the component that has me the most stumped. Note that there are 3 wires chewed too close to identify. From the other wires that I can see the markings, I think that this has something to do with the High/Low speed selection, but I cannot find any component in the schematic that shows all of the wires that I can see going to the same device.

It is a 2 part piece with the plug in side having 3 wires jumped to other ports. I show it both connected and disconnected.
What is it and how can I identify the damaged wires?

Any help is appreciated.

 

[truckdiagnostics]

I have posted photos of the component that has me the most stumped. Note that there are 3 wires chewed too close to identify. From the other wires that I can see the markings, I think that this has something to do with the High/Low speed selection, but I cannot find any component in the schematic that shows all of the wires that I can see going to the same device.

It is a 2 part piece with the plug in side having 3 wires jumped to other ports. I show it both connected and disconnected.
What is it and how can I identify the damaged wires?

Any help is appreciated.

At first glance it looks like a deustch connector. Here is there web site which will help you match up and figure how it comes apart.
https://laddinc.com/ It may say amp also they copied/reverse engineered deustch,s stuff, however duestch pins and sockets should work. If it is in fact a duestch/amp life is good. I need better pics of the plug and socket end. looking directly at the wires and where it plugs in on both sides. there should also be some markings on it.
Now there are different ways at going at this, first off do we really need to know what those wires do if you repair them? Also those plugs for the most case are just for assembly, so you could just butt splice/replace the plug all together.
These are the brand butt splics I use
Perma-Seal? Terminals - Molex
They shrink at a lower temp and seal around the wire and are a perfectly acceptable repair. I use a heat gun, don't use a lighter Soldering wire where you are is not the way to go, they will work harden and break. Next when you replace your wire you must use a good automotive rated wire, sae j1128 specs. Looking at your wire that looks like 14 or 18 awg. If it was mine even though I have the plug and connectors, if it was not going to something I was going to be replacing soon. I would butt splice everything around it in a heartbeat.

 

[JimRB]

There is a fairly good chance there is insulation clamped by each terminal. If you get the terminal released, you will see how the crimp is usually two crimps. One on the wire and one on the wire and insulation. Prize open the insulation and wire and you may deduce the wire color. Take pictures as you go.