Grease

[jacain]

Picked up an extra gun and grease yesterday and wasn't sure what everyone uses as a do all grease product on their tractors and implements. I've heard good stuff about the Mystik high temp based on some preliminary research. I bought the high temp and multipurpose stuff just in case. Just looking for a little advice here. Thanks!

 

[Gary Fowler]

I have used both red and green container and cant really say which is better. I cant comment about the performance of any grease compared to another but I do know that by putting any grease on your equipment is better than no grease. I think the Mystik grease must stay in place well judging from how hard it is to get it off your hands.

 

[oosik]

I don't know anything about the brand Mystik but the NLGI #2 should be good for your greasing needs. NLGI #1 or #2 with lithium is recommended for my tractor.

#1 will be a softer grease(like tomato sauce) and #2 will be a bit "harder" grease(like peanut butter). With lithium makes the grease black and also means it will get all over everything.

And as Gary says - it sticks and is difficult to get off your hands, elbows, shirts, pants etc, etc.

 

[sea2summit]

Is there a better or worse geese for dusty places?

 

[brasco426]

I use the red #2 from TSC works good and seems to stay in place and not run.

 

[5030]

The one type of grease I do not use, is a clay based grease (which is usually the cheap stuff). Clay based greases tend to harden in alemite fittings and make regreasing a PITA. Grease is cheap, might as well use the best your wallet can afford. I buy all my grease in 150 pound pails and load my hand guns from that (via an air greaser like a Lincoln). Much less expensive, no messy cartridges either and no greasy hands, shirts or elbows....lol

 

[Looking4new]

I am using Shell Gadus-S2 winter grease year round. It costs me $49.oo CDN for a case of 10 tubes. Well worth the money as far as I am concerned and way cheaper than replacing parts.

I just got the Jeep back from the garage where they were supposed to grease it as well as change the oil. I had pointed out the 4 grease fittings on each of the front axle U joints that needed to be greased as well as the axle tubes. They didn't grease them, so I just did it myself this morning and found a tie rod end that wasn't done as well as the two upper ball joints. It sure is hard to get good help these days.

 

[jacain]

The one type of grease I do not use, is a clay based grease (which is usually the cheap stuff). Clay based greases tend to harden in alemite fittings and make regreasing a PITA. Grease is cheap, might as well use the best your wallet can afford. I buy all my grease in 150 pound pails and load my hand guns from that (via an air greaser like a Lincoln). Much less expensive, no messy cartridges either and no greasy hands, shirts or elbows....lol

Thanks for the info. Of the two I showed, I assume the high temp isn't clay based and the other is, correct?

 

[jacain]

I am using Shell Gadus-S2 winter grease year round. It costs me $49.oo CDN for a case of 10 tubes. Well worth the money as far as I am concerned and way cheaper than replacing parts.

I actually have some of this at work I think. I'll have to look at the specs compared to the Mystik high temp.

 

[5030]

Thanks for the info. Of the two I showed, I assume the high temp isn't clay based and the other is, correct?

Usually, clay based grease will be the least expensive and it will be dark in color, usually. No all dark greases are clay based however. Best rule of thumb is price. Cheap=clay base.

I use Mobil synthetic myself (in 150 pound open head drums). It's orange and like most high end grease, it's hard to get off your hands. The harder it is to get off your hands, the better it stays in your greaseable joints.

I do know the cheapo TSC grease is clay based.