Ford 1210 tear down and repair

Asymair95 · Sep 1, 2016

I recently acquired a 1210 with a Woods 59" finishing mower. This tractor has been stored in a lean to shed since 1998. It does run and drive, but needs new tires as they are all dry rotted, worn, and full of plugs.

So where do I go from here? I'd like to get it mechanically sound so I can brush hog with it once I sell the finishing mower. I'm afraid to tear it down too far because of the scarcity and price of parts.

I tried to post some pics, but it said I didn't have permission to perform that action. Maybe after a few posts.

I have ordered a service manual, So while I'm waiting for that to arrive I have a few questions.

- I know there are different types of diesel for on road and off road use. I should have no problem finding the off road stuff since I live in a farming community. What are the advantages of using off road vs on road fuel? Which one is better for the engine?

- Do I need to add any kind of additive to stabilize the fuel like you do with gasoline?

- I need new tires all the way around. There are 20x8-10 on the front and 8-16 on the rear. I would like to fit some ribbed style tires to the front like the Vredestein style, but haven't found any so far. Anybody seen anything like that in that size? Also, would like to fit a slightly larger tire to the rear for some more ground clearance. Not familiar with farm tractor sizes and measurements though. Anyone have any suggestions?

I'm sure I will have other questions as this restoration progresses. Thanks for the help guys.

Asymair95 · Sep 1, 2016

Here are some pics

Btown · Sep 1, 2016

I cannot tell if your tractor is 4wd. If it is you have to keep the same ratio front to rear tire size. If it's 2wd then you can do whatever you want. Those tires look well worn. Looks like a lot of road use or something.

Utopia Texas · Sep 2, 2016

The first thing you need to do is change out all fluids and filters on the unit including hydraulics, engine oil, radiator/cooling fluid and fuel filters and old diesel. Also grease all bearings and fill any grease fittings. At that point you can assess how well the tractor runs and what else may need to be done.
I personally would change out the hydraulic hose hanging down below the transmission with a 90 degree fitting so the hose does not hang down so low. It will eventually catch on something and damage will result.

Asymair95 · Sep 2, 2016

All good advice, thank you.

This is a 1983 2wd model.

I spoke with the Miller tire folks and they do have a slightly larger tire that might fit. I've decided to go back stock though to avoid any drama. The other tires are quite a bit more expensive too.

Still no service manual yet. So I have been arming myself with knowledge by reading as many posts on here as I can. Lots of good info. Have been soaking all the nuts and bolts with penetrating oil to help prevent any stuck hardware. Will do this several times over the next few days.

Game plan as of now:

- all fluids and filters will be changed, including the two hyd screen filters.
- new antifreeze and flush the system.
- new water pump, thermostat, and hoses. The pump has some play on the front bearing. Nothing is leaking yet, but just want to prevent any issues in the future.
- new fan belt
- new air filter
- new fuel filter housing and filter. The shutoff on the filter housing is frozen open, and you can't see anything through the clear plastic housing, so will be getting a whole new one.
- tires and valve stems
- valve adjustment
- clutch adjustment
- brake inspection and adjustment
- new battery
- lots of new fuel hoses
- general degreasing and power washing
- steering gear adjustment and new ball end boots
- repair and replace several bent and missing pieces parts
- straighten the hood and grill that appear to have been used as battering rams

Wanted to get opinions on corrosion control. I don't want to get crazy and do a total tear down and repaint. This tractor will be used. I do have several areas of moderate to severe rust though. Do I just treat those individual areas with a primer/paint, and give everything else a going over with compound and wax? I also don't want to destroy the value. I know everyone likes a nice original tractor, and it seems to help keep the value up.

What is a good match for the Ford blue and white? Not looking to get crazy, maybe just some rattle cans. I'm going to por15 the battery box as its in real bad shape.

Thanks again for the tips and advice, keep'em coming.

jimmysisson · Sep 2, 2016

Why don't you change fluids and run it for ten hours before you see what to do next? I for one would not power wash it, though others do with no problem.
Jim

Asymair95 · Sep 7, 2016

Have a question about the air filter. I ordered a new one and it doesn't match the old one. It fits in there fine, just looks like a different design.

Utopia Texas · Sep 7, 2016

The new filter in your picture is just like the one on my Ford 1215 and is held in the canister by way of a long threaded bolt with a wing nut end. As long as the new filter fits in snug where air cannot get past the seals and let dust into the engine you are good to go.

Asymair95 · Sep 7, 2016

The air filter housing was really rusty on the inside. I pulled it apart and shot some rust reformer on it and a fresh coat of paint. Hard to see in the pic, but the hose fitting is nearly rotted off.