Upgrading ignition switch on New Holland TC33D

[Lab Guy]

The starter switch seems to be a popular topic on these boards and mine is not working either.

I was wondering if anyone had any experience with either replacing the OEM ignition switch with a third party that was more solid, or perhaps modified it with a push button starter. The OEM switches are incredibly overpriced junk. I had mine replaced and at one point ended up putting an SS hose clamp around it so it would not vibrate apart. Pretty sorry for almost $70.

Here is a wiring diagram for the switch. I'm having a starting problem as well. I removed the starter/solenoid and took it to a battery shop; it checked out. Fuses are good. Battery is good. Relays are fairly new. I believe the other safety switches to be good.





I would guess that a push button is a good option. You turn the switch to ACC, let the glow plugs warm up, and then have the push button trigger the starter.

Any thoughts out there?

 

[crash325]

Seems to be a NH problem. Mine died some time ago. I have rigged up some jumpers to start the tractor. Not a great solution bu it works.
Plan to see if I can get a simple 3 position switch. Off/run// Start. & auto return to run.

???

 

[Lab Guy]

I did mess around with a $12 one from O Reilly's, but did not feel like I could get it to work. The ACC was to the left of the key turn; it did have ignition on the right. I liked the switch since it was a metal case and felt sturdy. I don't how New Holland can charge that stupid amount of money for their cheap garabage.

 

[crash325]

I did a crude drawing then remembered my scanner does not work.
Is your tractor a diesel?? Maybe I can take a picture of my crummy drawing later.

 

[Lab Guy]

Yes, it is a diesel.

The wiring diagram is pretty similar for the models.

 

[thclimer]

The starter switch seems to be a popular topic on these boards and mine is not working either.

I was wondering if anyone had any experience with either replacing the OEM ignition switch with a third party that was more solid, or perhaps modified it with a push button starter. The OEM switches are incredibly overpriced junk. I had mine replaced and at one point ended up putting an SS hose clamp around it so it would not vibrate apart. Pretty sorry for almost $70.

Here is a wiring diagram for the switch. I'm having a starting problem as well. I removed the starter/solenoid and took it to a battery shop; it checked out. Fuses are good. Battery is good. Relays are fairly new. I believe the other safety switches to be good.


View attachment 509388


I would guess that a push button is a good option. You turn the switch to ACC, let the glow plugs warm up, and then have the push button trigger the starter.

Any thoughts out there?

Follow this link and your problems will be solved:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...tion-switch-replacement.html?highlight=switch

 

[PILOON]

What has worked for me (and others) is to squirt some WD40 into the key slot and work the key for a while.
Those switches use a lubricant to make smooth operation and to lubricate but one problem is that the lube dries up and cakes preventing decent contact.
WD40 dissolves the dry caked lube and returns the switch back to normal.

I dissected a few switches and discovered that cause.
Face it, those switches are exposed to the elements and heat (sun) certainly does not help keep the lube soft.
The contact wiper is spring loaded and dry hardened lube prevents the wiper from making good contact which shows up more so on the high current circuits (glow plugs) but OK for lights etc.
Also cold winter air likes to stiffen that lube as well making some switches seasonally more temperamental.

You have nothing to lose but a few squirts of WD40.

 

[rayikeo2]

I bought a switch that worked for my 1700 on ebay. It was about the same price as I remember. Changing to a push button is probably a waste of time and money because the switch has to run the dash, preheater starter and the heater while the starter is turning. I opened up my old switch and there are four different contact points that have to make a good contact to preform all the functions of the switch. I recommend a same type of switch replacement. It could be an after market one though instead of a New Holland brand. I posted a picture of the inside of my switch in the 1700 forum a couple years ago.

 

[crash325]

Good morning,
I picked a switch yesterday. If you are still interested I will take a picture of it.
I just hope it fits where the OEM switch is.
Please let me know.
crash325

 

[rayikeo2]

My tractor is a 1700 from around 1981. The ignition switch went bad and I replaced it with one bought on ebay. I took a hacksaw to the old switch and cut it in half to see why it quit working. This is a picture of both sides of the switch after cutting it apart. (correct picture will post later)

Numbers from wiring diagram above: #30 hot wire from battery is always "hot". #15 "ACC" is hot in all positions except "off". #17 starter and #50 glo-plugs are hot in start position. #19 goes to preheat only.