1510 complete service and inspection

[Asymair95]

Just acquired a 1510 with loader and 4wd to compliment my 1210 that I restored last year. This tractor has always been stored inside, so it is in good shape cosmetically. The mechanicals seem fine so far, but i want to do a complete service and inspection on it before heavy use. It did come with a service manual and owners manual, 4' bush hog, and 5' finish mower. Here's a pic.



I'm sure I will have many questions, and appreciate the advice from the pros here.

I'm gathering all the fluids and filters I will need. I understand the hydraulics, rear trans/diff, and front diff use the New Holland 134 fluid.

The front final drives use 80wt gear oil? I've seen a few different weights thrown around and was wondering what weight would be best for our North East Winters.

Also, does anyone have any info on this Allied 180 loader? Can't find anything anywhere, and I need some kick stands for it as mine are missing.

Thanks for the help fellas.

 

[Asymair95]

OK, I just checked the owners manual and it says use M2C-105-A in the front differential and final drives. Capacity is 4.2 qts.

When I cross reference this online it comes up as sae 90wt oil. Does this sound correct?

I was confused in thinking the final drives and front diff used different oils, but this appears to not be the case.

 

[skills4lou]

Best of luck with this one, from the pics she looks like a beaut!

 

[Asymair95]

So here is what I found in the owners manual and service manual concerning front differential lube.





The fist pic is in the owners manual. Second is the service manual. Am I reading this wrong or are these two different recommendations?

I'm going to go with the 134 type as I've seen it recommended on here by the resident experts.

 

[skills4lou]

This wouldn't be the first time a manual had a misprint. I would see what drains out and match it. As for the m2c lube, it's been obsolete for a while. A quality GL5 hear lube will be fine.

 

[Asymair95]

Thank you Lou.

 

[Asymair95]

Finally getting some traction on the 1510.

Got the parking stands made out of pressure treated 2x8 with some 3/8" ply nailed to it with some metal strapping around the bolt hole. Should be plenty strong enough.



I'm also using jack stands to augment the wood. Will support the front mount bracket with those.



Got the brush guard and hood off, she's an oily mess. Will be heading to the wash rack for a thorough cleaning.



I pulled the air cleaner and it was filthy! I didn't get a chance to check it when I bought the tractor because the loader was kind of in the way with the hood on. I don't think the guy ever checked or changed it in the two years he owned it. The dust cup was all the way full of crap and the filter was plugged up. This may be the source of my engine rpm issue. More on that later.

 

[Asymair95]

I can't get the loader arm retention bolts out so I can remove the loader. Is there a certain position the loader should be in before removing the bolts? Do the bolts even come out? I can get them to turn about a 1/4 turn and then they stop. I have the loader down with weight resting on the parking stands, and they won't budge with a 1/2" impact on them.

 

[bspeedy]

Can't help you with your loader removal issue. I just wanted to say that it is great that guys like you take on projects like this. So many of these old machines are neglected and go to waste. Buying a used piece of machinery and making it as good as new is fun and way more rewarding than picking out a new one and writing a check.

Actually, I can't confirm that last sentence. Someday maybe I'll be able to write a check for a new one...

 

[Asymair95]

I'm thinking now things may be rusted up tight in there. I took a dental pick and pulled out a bunch of junk from between the loader saddle and loader upright. There is about a 1/4" - 1/8" gap between there and years of dirt, sticks and water have taken their toll on the locking lug and bolt.



Question is now what to do? Wondering if sawing the bolt head off will allow the loader to slip out of the saddle, then I could heat the lucking lug up and get the bolt out. I'm open to any suggestions at this point, this thing is trying my Patience.