New to NH, Oil change advice

[Missed Again]

I have recently acquired a NH TC29DA and need to change the oil. In researching how on here one thread implied I needed to do it slowly. Does anybody recall that thread? For the life of me I can稚 see why, nor can I find reference to the thread. What would be the danger? You can only pour oil so fast. Is there anything else I should be aware of? I have changed oil, filters, etc. in cars for years but this is my first time for a tractor, are there any differences? I will purchase the oil, filters and such from my local NH dealer.
Thanks for your help.

 

[DwayneB]

I have recently acquired a NH TC29DA and need to change the oil. In researching how on here one thread implied I needed to do it slowly. Does anybody recall that thread? For the life of me I can稚 see why, nor can I find reference to the thread. What would be the danger? You can only pour oil so fast. Is there anything else I should be aware of? I have changed oil, filters, etc. in cars for years but this is my first time for a tractor, are there any differences? I will purchase the oil, filters and such from my local NH dealer.
Thanks for your help.

No difference. I use synthetic only now. Just a better more modern lube that I think will help engine life. But that is just my opinion.

 

[Halftrack]

The "slowly" part you are referring to applies to the smaller NH TC models. I believe there is warning in the operator's manual to slowly pour the replacement oil into the crankcase filler to allow it to flow into the crankcase. Apparently there is a restriction that requires the slow pour. It also requests you remove the dipstick to allow more ventilation to the crankcase and to pour less than 2 liters per minute. See attached thread.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/new-holland-owning-operating/219674-heads-up-tc26da-owners.html

and lookup nightmare on the tbn search box.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ating/188532-tc40da-oil-change-nightmare.html

 

[Budweiser John]

No different than any other engine,
pour away.
Pretty sure that tractor is 4WD and as such there are two drain ports on the oil pan one either side of the front power shaft.
You may have already figured that out.

B. John

 

[motownbrowne]

You're right about the slow pour thing. They might have updated it by the time the DA came around. I can't remember the details exactly either, but I remember that adding oil too fast was catastrophic for some engines. The fix (pouring slowly) seemed easy enough to remember that I guess I forgot the cause. I just fill my funnel and then wipe off a wrench or tidy something up then fill the funnel again, and repeat.

 

[DK35vince]

If I remember right it was only if you poured to fast using the valve cover hole for the oil fill on certain models.
If filled to fast oil would build up in the valve cover and could overflow into the crankcase vent tube and into the intake.

 

[MiserableOldFart]

The slow pour was for a wide range of CUTS and it DOES apply to the DA.

The DA models require the slow pour with the stick out. In addition, I make sure the engine is warm when I drain, and still when I pour, and though I doubt it really has much effect, I wait at least 10 minutes before starting the tractor after filling. It's not that often it has to be done, and being extra careful can't hurt.

 

[RickB]

No different than any other engine,
pour away.


B. John

Your post is inaccurate and potentially harmful to the engine of any TC/A owner that takes it to heart. Do the world a favor and delete it. Flooding the valve cover with engine oil can cause some of the oil to enter the intake manifold via the crankcase vent system. This can cause the engine to hydro lock and potentially bend a connecting rod. This can and has happened.