NH 1920 clutch problems...

[ryninger]

Hey All,
Newly registered member here. Have browsed here a lot, and gotten a lot of good information. So, thank you all for that! I've got a late 90's 1920 with 1460hrs on it. Bought it at auction a few years ago, and have not had any unusual issues with it. Worst has been new lines for the loader. Ran a brush hog with it last year with no problems. Got a "new" one last weekend and hooked it up for a simple function test. No joy...Clutch fully depressed PTO just wants to grind. Started troubleshooting, and my clutch linkage was bent with no free play. Unsure how long it had been this way. Straightened it out and got free play to right at 1". Went back to the cutter, and no improvement. Just wants to grind. With no load, it'll slip in without grinding but PTO spins...What's the likely hood a clutch adjustment will fix this, or am I SOL and either need to find someone to replace it or pony up and take it to a dealer? I'm not afraid of turning wrenches, but splitting the tractor and replacing is it outside my comfort zone...

Thanks,
R

 

[fried1765]

Hey All,
Newly registered member here. Have browsed here a lot, and gotten a lot of good information. So, thank you all for that! I've got a late 90's 1920 with 1460hrs on it. Bought it at auction a few years ago, and have not had any unusual issues with it. Worst has been new lines for the loader. Ran a brush hog with it last year with no problems. Got a "new" one last weekend and hooked it up for a simple function test. No joy...Clutch fully depressed PTO just wants to grind. Started troubleshooting, and my clutch linkage was bent with no free play. Unsure how long it had been this way. Straightened it out and got free play to right at 1". Went back to the cutter, and no improvement. Just wants to grind. With no load, it'll slip in without grinding but PTO spins...What's the likely hood a clutch adjustment will fix this, or am I SOL and either need to find someone to replace it or pony up and take it to a dealer? I'm not afraid of turning wrenches, but splitting the tractor and replacing is it outside my comfort zone...

Thanks,
R

I would venture a guess that you are facing a "split".
I had never split ANY tractor before, but with the help of a neighbor did it.
The job was a LOT more straightforward than I expected.
We actually did it twice (a 1989- Ford 1920).
The first time we put in an aftermarket (Chinese) clutch from Reliable After Market Parts (sister company is: Stevens Lake). DO NOT BUY ANYTHING FROM THESE PEOPLE!!!
That clutch failed after less than 3 hours.
The second replacement clutch kit came from AI Products,(also Chinese?) and is a good one.
If you get the 1920 Ford repair manual, have a friend who can help, and buy a good kit (I would actually suggest Messick's), you can do the job (use U-Tube videos) in a day, and learn a lot about your tractor.
If not: You can take it to a dealer, and spend $2000+.

 

[mddorange]

:welcome:
To the TBN forum R. We are glad that you joined.

Sorry to hear about your problems but you have come to the right place to get help.

 

[DwayneB]

I copied this from another thread on TBN so it may or may not be accurate.

Clutch pedal free travel should be 3/4" - 1 3/16". There's also a rubber cover on the side of the clutch housing. Inside there are three bolts with lock-nuts affixed to the PTO pressure plate. (can't miss 'em) Adjust so that those bolt heads are .035-.040" (~1mm) from contacting the near surface ('outer clutch cover'). This is to sync the PTO and transmission clutches (dual plate) and may not require readjusting pedal free travel, once checked.

 

[chander]

If your 1920 has a dual clutch, the PTO clutch may be rusted or stuck to the pressure plate. This is common if the tractor's PTO has not been used lately. One way to try to unstuck the clutch is to start the tractor with the PTO engaged with the brush hog attached. With the PTO running you can depress the clutch and this will break it free. You have to jump out the PTO safety switch to get the tractor started. This is a safety device, make sure you are comfortable with doing this, if not reach out to your local dealer for assistance.

 

[kirkawilson]

I would try the clutch adjustments mentioned above before committing to a split. There is more description on the adjustments in the FO-46 I&T repair manual. Also, the access port on your clutch housing is likely covered by your loader mounting hardware, so you might need to remove your loader to make any clutch adjustments.

 

[fried1765]

I would try the clutch adjustments mentioned above before committing to a split. There is more description on the adjustments in the FO-46 I&T repair manual. Also, the access port on your clutch housing is likely covered by your loader mounting hardware, so you might need to remove your loader to make any clutch adjustments.

You WILL need to remove the loader to access the clutch adjustment/inspection access hole.
It is behind the left side loader post.

 

[Btown]

Make sure you depressed the clutch all the way. If still grinding I would adjust the free play to 3/4 inch. Mine is sensitive to this to. One turn of adjustment and no more grinding.

 

[AlbionWood]

If your 1920 has a dual clutch, the PTO clutch may be rusted or stuck to the pressure plate. This is common if the tractor's PTO has not been used lately. One way to try to unstuck the clutch is to start the tractor with the PTO engaged with the brush hog attached. With the PTO running you can depress the clutch and this will break it free. You have to jump out the PTO safety switch to get the tractor started. This is a safety device, make sure you are comfortable with doing this, if not reach out to your local dealer for assistance.

Don't all the 1920s have a dual clutch? Definitely try this and the adjustments mentioned in this thread. When I first got my 1920, it had been stored for a long time without using the clutch pedal spacer (see p. 54 of the manual) and the clutch was stuck. A bit unnerving to have the tractor move as soon as you crank the engine... but by starting and stopping a couple times with the clutch pedal depressed, it came free. Then I just had to slip the clutch a few times and the problem pretty much went away.

 

[twdavis101]

OK Folks, My 1920 clutch is KILLING ME! I had the clutch replaced and didn't put 50 hours on it and it went out. I bought a reman from a store and put it in and it failed within 30 minutes of starting the engine. Here's the questions: did I get crappy parts? can I rebuild the clutches myself? Is there anything else that could be wrong, like the throw out bearing fork. I don't see any evidence of the roll pins being broken or sheared off but????
Any help would be appreciated. I don't have any problem splitting the tractor. Once you have done it, it is not a big deal.
Thanks for any help and advice anyone can give me.