MackAttack
Member
My Cruise control stopped working on my TC35D, Any ideas?? If I press the button the light will turn green until I turn it off, but it will not keep the pedals in place like it used to.. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Cruise Control
- Thread starter MackAttack
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jinman
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- Texas - Wise County - Sunset
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- NHTC45D, NH LB75B, Ford Jubilee
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( My Cruise control stopped working on my TC35D, Any ideas?? If I press the button the light will turn green until I turn it off, but it will not keep the pedals in place like it used to.. )</font>
I'd check the function of the electro-magnet. With the ignition ON and the engine not running, you should be able to stand on the right side of the tractor and listen for the cruise control magnet to energize when you switch it ON and OFF. If you can hear it, it may have something between the magnet and the plate it holds during cruise.
I'm attaching a photo of the magnet on my tractor when I had to disassemble the hydro pedal mechanism. You WILL NOT be able to see the magnet or electrical connections this clearly by looking under your platform. There is a possiblity the wire to the electromagnet has a loose connection. That wire is also tough to reach. If you take up your floor mat, there is a square port under the mat in front of the seat where you might be able to get to the wire, but I actually have my doubts. Hopefully you will have something in the magnet area you can clean out and get it working without disassembly.
If your tractor is in warranty, I'd just take it to the dealer. This is not an easy job if you have to get the part replaced.
I'm attaching one picture of the magnet in this post, and in the next one, a photo of the magnet with the plate installed. You will have to look upwards from under the tractor to see in this area, but a good inspection with a flashlight may show what the problem is.
Let us know what you find.
I'd check the function of the electro-magnet. With the ignition ON and the engine not running, you should be able to stand on the right side of the tractor and listen for the cruise control magnet to energize when you switch it ON and OFF. If you can hear it, it may have something between the magnet and the plate it holds during cruise.
I'm attaching a photo of the magnet on my tractor when I had to disassemble the hydro pedal mechanism. You WILL NOT be able to see the magnet or electrical connections this clearly by looking under your platform. There is a possiblity the wire to the electromagnet has a loose connection. That wire is also tough to reach. If you take up your floor mat, there is a square port under the mat in front of the seat where you might be able to get to the wire, but I actually have my doubts. Hopefully you will have something in the magnet area you can clean out and get it working without disassembly.
If your tractor is in warranty, I'd just take it to the dealer. This is not an easy job if you have to get the part replaced.
I'm attaching one picture of the magnet in this post, and in the next one, a photo of the magnet with the plate installed. You will have to look upwards from under the tractor to see in this area, but a good inspection with a flashlight may show what the problem is.
Let us know what you find.
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jinman
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OP
MackAttack
Member
Thanks Jinman, I'll follow your advice and check it out. I'll let you know how I make out. Thanks again.
jinman
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Two additional thoughts:
1. There is an adjustment on the cruise control magnet. That might be all it needs.
2. If your green light is coming on and staying on in the cruise switch, the problem is not your brake pedal switch. The brake switch would turn off the light and disable the switch if it was out of adjustment.
Hopefully you just need an adjustment.
1. There is an adjustment on the cruise control magnet. That might be all it needs.
2. If your green light is coming on and staying on in the cruise switch, the problem is not your brake pedal switch. The brake switch would turn off the light and disable the switch if it was out of adjustment.
Hopefully you just need an adjustment.
OP
MackAttack
Member
There doesn't appear to be anything blocking or fouling the magnet and I tried to see if I could hear anything with the engine off and the key on and then engage the cruise but still no luck.. How do you make the adjustments to the magnet
???
???
jinman
Rest in Peace
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- Texas - Wise County - Sunset
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- NHTC45D, NH LB75B, Ford Jubilee
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( How do you make the adjustments to the magnet
)</font>
MA, if you didn't see any blockage around the magnet, that's a good sign. Did you also check that the wire and connector going to the magnet are not damaged?
Although I said there is an adjustment, I really have my doubts that that is the problem. Here's why....
There are two bolts you have to loosen to make the adjustment. If those bolts came loose, the magnet would not get further away form the plate, but would actually come into contact with the plate. You'd probably notice no difference in the operation. The gap is supposed to be set .020"-.060" and that's a pretty wide variation. I think you could almost "eyeball" it and be within tolerance on that wide a gap.
You can see the bolts (label #3) in the small inset in the attachment. Those are accessible from under the platform, but the HST return spring may be in the way. (The rest of the attachment is explained below.)
I don't have any idea about your electrical or troubleshooting experience, so I'm just going to tell you how I would proceed from this point based on the detailed operation I've found in my Repair Manual. The process will be: 1. Check that the cruise control diode is good. 2. Check that the magnet is good. 3. Check that the cruise control relay is good.
Make sure the brake pedals and parking brake are released before making these checks. I'm making these recommendations based on your having stated that the cruise control light in the switch is staying ON. That light goes out on my tractor as soon as I step on the brake pedals. By your light being ON, I'm assuming the brake pedal switch is not out of adjustment. If the light does not stay ON, checking the brake pedal switch is my first suggestion.
1. If the cruise control diode is bad, the cruise control magnet will only energize while the switch is held in the SET position. To check this out, turn on your ignition key to the run position without starting the engine. Depress the forward pedal all the way and hold it down. Press the cruise control switch to the SET position and hold it there while you release the pedal. If the pedal stays down, release the switch. If the diode is bad, when you release the switch to the ON position, the magnet will deenergize and the pedal will go to neutral. If the pedal does not hold while you held the switch to SET, the problem is most likely not the diode.
2. You can check the cruise control magnet by applying 12 volts directly to it (this is the procedure in the manual). You will need to find the wire going to the magnet under the platform and disconnect it. The connection which was visible in my first attached photo ( one of the red arrows). When you have the connector loose, jumper 12 volts across the two contacts in the connector and the magnet should energize. It's that simple. If the magnet will not energize with 12 volts, its windings are open and it will have to be replaced. There is the possibility that one of the connecting wires has been cut or broken, so also check that carefully.
3. In order to check the cruise control relay, the easiest way I know is to remove the cowling just in front of the operator's platform (black on non-DA model tractors). You have to raise the hood and remove three bolts fom the tractor's left-side firewall (I think it's 3, but maybe 2). You also have to remove the two bolts just below the tilt steering actuator in the operator's area. After that, the cowling should lift up and out to expose the relays. Relay number 3 in the attachment is the the cruise relay. I believe it is the same as relay 1 & 2, so if you want to swap one of them and run the test of the cruise circuit again, that would tell you if you have a bad relay.
There are more tests and details for this circuit, but hopefully you will not need them. If the problem turns out to be your diodes, I'm not entirely sure where they are located. I think probably somewhere near the relays, but I'm not sure. If the test shows the diode bad, I'd suggest talking to your dealer when you go to order the part. Surely he can tell you where it is located and if you can do the replacement or not.
I hope this has been helpful. Sometimes simple circuits can be really more complex than they seem. If you have more questions, I'll be glad to help. If you don't feel comfortable with doing the electrical troubleshooting and testing, I'd recommend you not attempt it. I'd hate to have you make a mistake and cause other electrical problems. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
)</font>
MA, if you didn't see any blockage around the magnet, that's a good sign. Did you also check that the wire and connector going to the magnet are not damaged?
Although I said there is an adjustment, I really have my doubts that that is the problem. Here's why....
There are two bolts you have to loosen to make the adjustment. If those bolts came loose, the magnet would not get further away form the plate, but would actually come into contact with the plate. You'd probably notice no difference in the operation. The gap is supposed to be set .020"-.060" and that's a pretty wide variation. I think you could almost "eyeball" it and be within tolerance on that wide a gap.
You can see the bolts (label #3) in the small inset in the attachment. Those are accessible from under the platform, but the HST return spring may be in the way. (The rest of the attachment is explained below.)
I don't have any idea about your electrical or troubleshooting experience, so I'm just going to tell you how I would proceed from this point based on the detailed operation I've found in my Repair Manual. The process will be: 1. Check that the cruise control diode is good. 2. Check that the magnet is good. 3. Check that the cruise control relay is good.
Make sure the brake pedals and parking brake are released before making these checks. I'm making these recommendations based on your having stated that the cruise control light in the switch is staying ON. That light goes out on my tractor as soon as I step on the brake pedals. By your light being ON, I'm assuming the brake pedal switch is not out of adjustment. If the light does not stay ON, checking the brake pedal switch is my first suggestion.
1. If the cruise control diode is bad, the cruise control magnet will only energize while the switch is held in the SET position. To check this out, turn on your ignition key to the run position without starting the engine. Depress the forward pedal all the way and hold it down. Press the cruise control switch to the SET position and hold it there while you release the pedal. If the pedal stays down, release the switch. If the diode is bad, when you release the switch to the ON position, the magnet will deenergize and the pedal will go to neutral. If the pedal does not hold while you held the switch to SET, the problem is most likely not the diode.
2. You can check the cruise control magnet by applying 12 volts directly to it (this is the procedure in the manual). You will need to find the wire going to the magnet under the platform and disconnect it. The connection which was visible in my first attached photo ( one of the red arrows). When you have the connector loose, jumper 12 volts across the two contacts in the connector and the magnet should energize. It's that simple. If the magnet will not energize with 12 volts, its windings are open and it will have to be replaced. There is the possibility that one of the connecting wires has been cut or broken, so also check that carefully.
3. In order to check the cruise control relay, the easiest way I know is to remove the cowling just in front of the operator's platform (black on non-DA model tractors). You have to raise the hood and remove three bolts fom the tractor's left-side firewall (I think it's 3, but maybe 2). You also have to remove the two bolts just below the tilt steering actuator in the operator's area. After that, the cowling should lift up and out to expose the relays. Relay number 3 in the attachment is the the cruise relay. I believe it is the same as relay 1 & 2, so if you want to swap one of them and run the test of the cruise circuit again, that would tell you if you have a bad relay.
There are more tests and details for this circuit, but hopefully you will not need them. If the problem turns out to be your diodes, I'm not entirely sure where they are located. I think probably somewhere near the relays, but I'm not sure. If the test shows the diode bad, I'd suggest talking to your dealer when you go to order the part. Surely he can tell you where it is located and if you can do the replacement or not.
I hope this has been helpful. Sometimes simple circuits can be really more complex than they seem. If you have more questions, I'll be glad to help. If you don't feel comfortable with doing the electrical troubleshooting and testing, I'd recommend you not attempt it. I'd hate to have you make a mistake and cause other electrical problems. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
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MackAttack
Member
Found out today that the magnet is bad. My dealer stopped by and took a look at the cruise control and when he took it off and applied power he said that the magnet was bad. He did say that he has seen other reasons for the cruise to fail but had never seen one quit due to the magnet dying...
jinman
Rest in Peace
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- Texas - Wise County - Sunset
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- NHTC45D, NH LB75B, Ford Jubilee
Did you get a new magnet, or do you have to wait longer for your dealer to order it? At least you know for sure where the problem is and will eventually get it fixed. Your next one will probably last forever. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
markie61
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My magnet was DOA when I go the tractor with 34 hours on the clock. It happens. The dealer replaced it under warranty when I was having a bunch of stuff done anyway.
Mark
Mark