Tires Bush Hog Rubbing Rear Tires

   / Bush Hog Rubbing Rear Tires #11  
Sorry Jim for the duplication...

Somewhat of a lag on my part, I read the oldest messages first and work my way forward...

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   / Bush Hog Rubbing Rear Tires #12  
No problem, John. You and I are on the same "wavelength" on this, but I think some modifications are going to be required no matter what. His TC35D already has the adjustable links, so I'm sure he won't be modifying his lift arm length. He will have to do something to the mower pin location to get the room he needs or go to the quick-attachment setup I mentioned in my earlier post. His decision. I don't envy him one bit./w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif

JimI
 
   / Bush Hog Rubbing Rear Tires #13  
Does the cutter get close if you're sitting still on level ground, or does it sway left/right when you're mowing? If the former, you've got a problem with the length offset from the front of the mower to the 3PH pins, but if the latter, maybe you just have the sway links too loose. I had that problem, but it was easy enough to tighten them.

mark
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   / Bush Hog Rubbing Rear Tires #14  
John, If I understand what you are saying, this is the problem the swivel causes. I've sketched a little diagram and it is attached.


JimI
 

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   / Bush Hog Rubbing Rear Tires #15  
I've had similar problems with my TC35 with R4's and rotary cutter. Try setting your top link (where it connects to the tractor) to the lowest hole. This will cause the rotary cutter to tilt more as it is raised by the 3pt (rear wheel of rotary cutter goes higher). This tilting will cause the front of the deck to be further from the rear wheels. With the top link as short as possible that works for me. As other's have mentioned, make sure the side links are adjusted. I raise my cutter off the ground, set one side link and then lean real hard against the cutter to set the other. That way I eliminate as much play as possible.

If this fails I'd consider a shorter top link.

Peter
 
   / Bush Hog Rubbing Rear Tires
  • Thread Starter
#16  
OK...put the top link in the lowest hole -- did that part. Removed the swivel from the top of the bush hog...now it is working better. The sketch that Jinman did was perfect...because of the swivel, when I'd lift, the front would come up while the back would droop. Until it was lifted further and the swivel on the mower had 'swiveled' then the back would lift as well. I had used another bush hog a couple of weeks ago and didn't have any problems with clearance...till I caught a tree root while backing (the new "angle" that bush hog has is great for fence lines). I guess it was that swivel. All is better now, thanks for all the help.
 
   / Bush Hog Rubbing Rear Tires #17  
Dang! This is exactly why I like this board. Results! /w3tcompact/icons/cool.gif
I was getting ready to suggest firestones on the rear and the loss of a few inches in circumference would do it. /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

"What is a weed? A plant whose virtues have not yet been discovered."
Ralph Waldo Emerson (1803-1882)
 
   / Bush Hog Rubbing Rear Tires #18  
Jim...

Save that picture!

{Before your picture, I thought his tractor was gonna be rebuilt...}
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   / Bush Hog Rubbing Rear Tires #19  
Wow! 25 years of doing technical training finally paid off!/w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif I'm glad my "silly-stration" helped.

JimI
 
   / Bush Hog Rubbing Rear Tires #20  
I apologize for chiming in late with a mild disagreement, but I have just gone through a lot of work involving the top-link lift mechanism on an old 72" Woods on a JD 950. The link that has been referred to as a "swivel" in this thread is what allows the deck to float upward. If removed, when the front wheels of the tractor start uphill or the rear deck wheel goes over a bump, the top link is in compression. The loading if you are mowing reasonably fast is far more than you want. It will, and did on ours, fail the lower mount pins on the deck and bend the top link. We restored our "modified" deck to allow it to float and have cured the problem. (Some people use a length of chain instead of the "swivel".) On very smooth level ground, by removal of the link you will think you have solved the problem, but you have created a rigid system which shock loads the three-point hitch.
Our top link is a standard turnbuckle type. Before lifting the deck for transport, we shorten it so that the rear comes up early. Before mowing, we extend it again so that the deck can also float downward, as well as up. The top link turnbuckle should be the right length to do that with the "swivel" in place, and you should be able to shorten enough to lift the rear as desired, if the forward mount of the top link is at the right level. Those with the luxure of a hydraulic top link don't even need to crank the turnbuckle.
 
 
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