jinman
Rest in Peace
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2001
- Messages
- 21,008
- Location
- Texas - Wise County - Sunset
- Tractor
- NHTC45D, NH LB75B, Ford Jubilee
The problem is that it's not like a straight wire with switches in it. You have several relays along the way, and in the end the operator safety circuit closes a relay that allows continuity to energize the starting circuit.
I would simply offer to scan the diagram and email it to you, but I'm moving my office around and my scanner is offline at the moment. Maybe I can hook it back up long enough to send you the scan. If you will give me your email address in a PM to me, I'll figure out a way to get you more info to help you out.
It seems you have established that all the swithes are working, but there also might be a broken wire or loose connector somewhere. Do you know how to set your meter to voltage and then check to see that all those switches you checked have 12 volts applied when the key is turned on? That's the next step. If they all work, you have to answer the question of whether there is power through them. By the way, the switches provide a path to ground. When the circuit is complete that path enables the operator safety relay to close and energize the starting circuit. Do you know where the relay assembly is? It's under the two-piece cowling below the steering column. Taking that cowling off (actually just the left half) requires removal of two or three bolts on the firewall under the hood and also the ones visible under the steering column. This is really starting to sound like a relay problem to me. What were the circumstances when the failure first occured?
I would simply offer to scan the diagram and email it to you, but I'm moving my office around and my scanner is offline at the moment. Maybe I can hook it back up long enough to send you the scan. If you will give me your email address in a PM to me, I'll figure out a way to get you more info to help you out.
It seems you have established that all the swithes are working, but there also might be a broken wire or loose connector somewhere. Do you know how to set your meter to voltage and then check to see that all those switches you checked have 12 volts applied when the key is turned on? That's the next step. If they all work, you have to answer the question of whether there is power through them. By the way, the switches provide a path to ground. When the circuit is complete that path enables the operator safety relay to close and energize the starting circuit. Do you know where the relay assembly is? It's under the two-piece cowling below the steering column. Taking that cowling off (actually just the left half) requires removal of two or three bolts on the firewall under the hood and also the ones visible under the steering column. This is really starting to sound like a relay problem to me. What were the circumstances when the failure first occured?