Grinding gears

   / Grinding gears
  • Thread Starter
#11  
HaveBlue - I'm sorry but I don't know what you mean by your comment "kidding right." Please explain.
 
   / Grinding gears #12  
<font color="blue"> I can't see going down to 500-750 rpm every time I change direction, I'm doing it about a hundred times. The loader work I'm doing is in a small area and frequent shift changes are needed. </font>

Do you have a foot throttle? With my 990 being a plain old collar shift gear machine, I very rarely use the hand throttle to set and hold a particular rpm. I'm on and off the foot throttle all the time. Dropping rpm to shift just requires lifting your foot a bit. Using the foot throttle is also a good way to vary your speed more than is possible by just using different gears and a constant engine speed. Pretend it's a poor man's hydro ... /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 
   / Grinding gears #13  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( can't see going down to 500-750 rpm every time I change direction )</font>

That's too low.. 1000rpm is about as low as I let my diesel tractor run, once it has been started and warmed..

Soundguy
 
   / Grinding gears #14  
I think he was talking to djradz about the shuttle shift being like a manual transmission and having to clutch. There may be different types of shuttle shifts out there, but mine stays at operating rpm all the time and I just flip the lever back and forth. That's the beauty of them. My dealer told me to run it this way. JerryG, are you sure about what you're talking about, concerning the NH shuttle shift. I see a MF avatar up there. My dealer actually told me I could go down the road full bore and shift and it would just gradually slow down and then reverse. I haven't tried it yet. Prolly won't.
 
   / Grinding gears #15  
OK, when in doubt, consult the manual. The 2120 has a hydro, syncro shuttle, so I can't comment on it here, however, direct from the manual for the 1720 and 1920, I quote: "The 12 x 12 Synchromesh Transmission operates through the use of a clutch pedal, a shuttle shift lever and a range selector." Also, "The shuttle lever is used to travel forward or rearward. Depress the clutch pedal and pull the shuttle lever upward and push forward for travel forward, pull rearward for travel rearward. Always depress the clutch pedal fully before changing the shuttle lever position. Any of the main gear ratios may be selected with the tractor moving or stationary provided the clutch pedal is depressed." And lastly for those interested in changing ranges, "The range selector has 4 positions to select the required transmission range. Always depress the clutch pedal fully and bring the tractor to a complete stop before moving the range selector lever. Do not attempt to change gears (ranges) while the tractor is in motion."

I always operated my 1720 as the manual stated and never had any problems. I would think to do otherwise means grinding gears or forcing the gears to mesh while turning under load - not a good thing. So, to recap, change from forward to reverse or through rears 1 thru 4 - simply press the clutch and shift. Change ranges - press the clutch, bring the tractor to a stop (or nearly so) and change range.
 
   / Grinding gears #16  
Jerry, I recall several times when mowing, with the rpms at 2500 or so, simply pushing in the clutch, (halfway on the two-stage clutch) slowing the motion of the tractor down, and then shiting to reverse to back into some location I couldn't otherwise hit going forward. I don't think I ever slowed the rpms in these cases and yet it shifted just fine. I always figured the syncro, in combination with the clutch, took care of this. No grinding, nothing unusual. I just checked the manual and couldn't find anything regarding this. If I was shifting the PTO in or out, I always did slow the rpms, in addition to using the clutch, but I don't think that was necessary.
 
   / Grinding gears #17  
Here's a quote from my 2120 manual.
"The shuttle shift lever is used to travel forward or rearward. Without depressing the clutch pedal, it is possible to pull or push the shuttle shift lever. Pull the shuttle shift lever upward and push forward for travel forward, pull rearward for travel rearward." Guess there are different shuttle shifts. I sure do like mine.
 
   / Grinding gears #18  
I think you've hit upon the difference between what Ford/NH called the HSS - Hydraulic Shuttle Shift and the standard SS. The hydraulic must work a little like a hydrostatic transmission or have some sort of hydraulic pump that changes the direction of flow or something. I think the 2120 was the only model to have this feature and the rest used the standard shuttle which requires the use of the clutch. Sounds like a nice feature on the 2120, kind of like the electric-actuated range selector (turtle/rabbit switch) many of us have on the class III boomers. Cool!
 
   / Grinding gears #19  
I know this is an old post, so don't be angry /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Shifting at 2000 rpm? isn't this quite high?
When i am mowing i put my rpm at 1500 rpm or 1800 rpm and give more throttle with my foot.
So when i shift i do it on "low" rpm this is much better for the clucth wear i think.
 
 
Top