Adding Rear Remotes: I need education

[meledward23]

I bought my Tractor TC55DA without rear remotes. Primarily due to ignorance of what they could do for me and at the time I had no implements for rear remotes and no major need for rear remotes.

Times have changed.

I want a box blade with a hydraulic tooth bar.
I would like to have hydraulic control over my grading blade.
I might add a Backhoe one day soon. (trying to add that to my budget.)

I really know nothing about hydraulic rear remotes. I will have the dealer do the work. I plan on going by and chatting for a while. But I need more knowledge so I dont get run around.

In general how many remotes do I need and what purpose do they serve?

Thanks...

 

[RobS]

From your "wants list", you'll actually need two seperate things at the rear. Remotes will work for the blade as they are controlled hydraulics. If you go with the NH setup you'll add a nice lever or two to some existing slots on your fender and those levers will control the remotes/blade.

For a backhoe you'll need uninterupted hydraulic flow. Not sure about NH but this is what JD calls Power Beyond. Essentially, you'll extend hydraulic power to your hoe where the controls are located.

In the end, you're going to have a very enviable setup /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Osconda]

meledward23,

I'm no expert either, but here's the little bit I've figured out....I bought my TC5DA with two hydraulic remotes installed. I was buying a root grapple that had two hydraulic cylinders on them that closed the grapple arms. So I am using one hydraulic remote for this and the other will be for a tilt cylinder (some day) for my box blade.

I believe the dealer actually has to order/buy the remote valves and a "completing kit" that includes fittings, levers, etc. You will notice that there are three empty slots next to the 3pt. hitch control on your tractor. Once the remote valves are installed you will have levers/handles installed in these slots. The remotes will come with color coded dust caps that match the levers.

I believe you ought to be able to buy a set of remotes along with the finishing kit for around $420. The dealer will charge you for the installation separately. There are two types of remote valves; self-centering and float & detent.

I believe the two remotes I got were the self-centering type. These are the one you should get for around $420. The float & detent type should be around $465. The prices are based on a 15% discount off list price.

To close the grapples on my bucket I lower the remote valve lever and lift the lever to open the grapples; which equates to extending and retracting the hyd. cylinders. The remotes will have quick couplers installed so you will need to have hydrualic hoses made with the proper fittings to mate the tractor and the implement your running. Hoses might already come with the implement.

Regarding hoses...you will need two for each remote, one that sends fluid and one that receives fluid from the cylinders.

Regarding a backhoe, I have no idea how this ties in to the hydraulic system. Don't know if you can run it off of just one remote or if it ties in to the loader hydraulics.

If you like I can post a picture of what your setup would look like.

 

[Osconda]

meledward23,

BTW, if you performed the 50 hour service yourself on the tractor, did you refill the transmission through the dipstick hole? Sure is a lot (11 gal. ) of fluid to add through such a small hole.

 

[Osconda]

never mind...I just saw the filler cap/port in my manual. Pays to read I guess.

 

[jinman]

Osconda, you may prefer to change the transmission oil at 50 hours, but every New Holland service schedule I've seen has the first oil change at 300 hours. At 50 hours they have you check the oil level and change the filter only. Since the filter is changed, a lot of folks also think they should change the fluid, but that's not what the schedule says. I suspect the filter change is to ensure any manufacturing residue that might be in the original filter is removed.

Anyhow, if you want to change the fluid that is fine, but if you want to delay this chore, check your schedule and see if it doesn't say the change is at 300 hours. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Chuck_Lind]

I had a third remote added to my NH TN65 last year...performed by the dealer at a cost of about $550.

If you do it yourself, you must remove the right rear wheel. A burdonsome task if the tires are filled with calcium chloride.

I went with the dealer service because they guaranteed the work.

 

[BadDog]

I have a TC55DA with a grapple on the FEL, and a backhoe.

It's worth every penny to get the dealer to install it, but make sure he puts all the connectors at the back of the tractor. There are cheap ways to do this, and there is the right way.

My dealer chose the cheap way, and put the connectors for the backhoe underneath the floorboard, which was a cheap and effective solution because he just spliced the BH into the hydraulic system vs installing a new connector block. This makes it an unnecessary pain to attach/detach the backhoe; reconnect the tractor system.

I would have gladly paid extra to have the connectors installed to a new rear-mounted block.

 

[chatcher]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( ...My dealer chose the cheap way, and put the connectors for the backhoe underneath the floorboard, which was a cheap and effective solution because he just spliced the BH into the hydraulic system vs installing a new connector block. This makes it an unnecessary pain to attach/detach the backhoe; reconnect the tractor system.)</font>

In your dealer's defense, I think that's where the connection is if you use the New Holland backhoe installation kit and instructions. It is for the TC35/40/45 series. I agree it seems poorly designed compared to the location of the power beyond fittings on some other color tractors. But since you have to get under there to install the front pins anyway, in practice it isn't so bad.

 

[BadDog]

I agree... ...that it could be designed better.