Hi All, Appreciate all the great info on this site. After much thought I am planning on buying a TC30 and need a front plow for the snow (also getting the FEL and a RFM). I am considering the Curtis Blade with attaches to the loader arms or Quick Attach NH blade. Can any one comment on pros and cons of these? Looking for recommendations.... Thanks.
Grading Quick Attach Front Blade or Curtis Blade???
- Thread starter sxholmh
- Start date
Easy. Get the quick attach on the Curtis blade... they offer one... it's mentioned at:
Curtis quick attach
If you don't get a quick-attach you'll sure wish you did when you want to use a bucket, a grapple, forks, spear, etc...
Curtis quick attach
If you don't get a quick-attach you'll sure wish you did when you want to use a bucket, a grapple, forks, spear, etc...
Thanks BadDog. If I go with the Curtis - which is the way I am leaning - I will indeed get the quick attach. But I am attemping to compare the Curtis set up to New Holland's front blade set up (also with a "quick attach"). Here is a picture of it. Based on the photo it looks like there is a substantial frame that hooks onto the tractor. One dealer said the frame must come to use FEL - another dealer said it does not......The Curtis is sounding better as I type....
sorry - here is the link.
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DocHeb
Veteran Member
There have been several theoretical problems proposed in the past regarding FEL mounted blades:
1. Extreme "torque" action on the FEL arms when the blade hits immobile objects, stressing the loader arms. Personally, I don't see how this can be much different from using the FEL.
2. In the FEL float position you won't have enough downpressure to bite into the ground/snow.
3. To solve #2, use the FEL downpressure to get a good "bite". This raises the front of the tractor and decreases steering control since there is less weight on the front wheels. Angling the blade makes the steering problems worse.
No personal experience with these - just comments I remember from prior threads.
1. Extreme "torque" action on the FEL arms when the blade hits immobile objects, stressing the loader arms. Personally, I don't see how this can be much different from using the FEL.
2. In the FEL float position you won't have enough downpressure to bite into the ground/snow.
3. To solve #2, use the FEL downpressure to get a good "bite". This raises the front of the tractor and decreases steering control since there is less weight on the front wheels. Angling the blade makes the steering problems worse.
No personal experience with these - just comments I remember from prior threads.
I think you'll be happier w/ the Curtis solution, but the NH solution is definitely physically stronger and you don't risk any damage to your FEL since it has to be detached to use the NH plow.
You may end up bending your FEL lift links (the gold kidney shaped links that attach your FEL bucket lift cylinders to the bucket) with it though if you are plowing heavy snow with a quick-attach blade. I've bent mine, using my bucket on the FEL for a bulldozer, and lifting large boulders. It really takes a *lot* of effort to do this, so it's unlikely it will happen. Lift links can be straightened but they're only about $120 to replace all four, and I don't trust 'straightened' metal as it's strength is severely diminished unless it's heat-treated somehow.
If you're only clearing snow off a paved or gravel road, the quick-attach should work fine. If you're planning on running into several immovable objects, you might condsider the NH blade.
Personally, I have an 8' Boss V-plow for my Chevy 2500 Diesel 4x4. I've been thinking of welding up a quick-attach mount to attach the plow to my tractor's FEL, since I tend to have a LOT of snow here at times and it might be fun to try out the plow on the tractor, since the tractor has a lot better manueverability in deep snow than the truck ever could.
Probably not a great idea though. Currently I use the tractor to clear a path for the truck to get out, then finish off plowing with the truck (it's really fast once you get moving), then go back to the tractor to deal with the really deep stuff or move piles around.
You may end up bending your FEL lift links (the gold kidney shaped links that attach your FEL bucket lift cylinders to the bucket) with it though if you are plowing heavy snow with a quick-attach blade. I've bent mine, using my bucket on the FEL for a bulldozer, and lifting large boulders. It really takes a *lot* of effort to do this, so it's unlikely it will happen. Lift links can be straightened but they're only about $120 to replace all four, and I don't trust 'straightened' metal as it's strength is severely diminished unless it's heat-treated somehow.
If you're only clearing snow off a paved or gravel road, the quick-attach should work fine. If you're planning on running into several immovable objects, you might condsider the NH blade.
Personally, I have an 8' Boss V-plow for my Chevy 2500 Diesel 4x4. I've been thinking of welding up a quick-attach mount to attach the plow to my tractor's FEL, since I tend to have a LOT of snow here at times and it might be fun to try out the plow on the tractor, since the tractor has a lot better manueverability in deep snow than the truck ever could.
Probably not a great idea though. Currently I use the tractor to clear a path for the truck to get out, then finish off plowing with the truck (it's really fast once you get moving), then go back to the tractor to deal with the really deep stuff or move piles around.
PoleClimber
Bronze Member
I have a meyers snowplow setup on my front end loader and it works just fine. I set my skidders up so the blade has 1" of ground clearance. This lets me raise or lower my FEL to match the conditions. I maintain 1.5 miles of dirt roads in our sub-division and 40 percent is uphill and i have not had any problems. The only thing i don't like about it is you need alot of room to turn around. I also have my blade setup to angle using the rear remotes and plumbing them to the angle cylinders with restricter valves. I don't have any photos but when i get it setup this year for plowing i would be glad to post them.
Bernie
Bernie
DK35vince
Super Member
As long as the plow has trip springs on it so it can flip down if you hit something solid you shouldn't hurt the loader.
I use a 7' blade on my loader (loader has quick attach) for snow removal.
For clearing my driveway of snow I run a 7' blade on the loader in the front and a 7' blade on the rear.
I use a 7' blade on my loader (loader has quick attach) for snow removal.
For clearing my driveway of snow I run a 7' blade on the loader in the front and a 7' blade on the rear.
udrugby
New member
I am looking to mount a meyers plow to my bx2200. Only a 6ft blade. I am looking for some help on hooking up the power angle. If you can send me some details on the valves you used or post some pictures that would be great.
Tom
Tom