Accessing the oil/fuel filters with loader!

[jrinck]

I have a TC29 with a front loader, but this issue probably pertains to many different types of NH tractors.

Last week I scraped myself up pretty good while trying to remove the oil and fuel filters during the 50 hour maintenance. There is no easy access for a human arm, with all the hydraulic lines and support braces in the way. It was a total disaster!

I ended up needing to rig up a oil wrench/needle nose plier contraption just to get enough torque to remove the oil filter, and used a ratchet wrench for the fuel filter.

I cursed the whole time!

The whole time I was doing it, though, I was rationalizing that there HAD to be an easier way to get to these things other than taking off the loader, but I couldn't.

Anyone have any tips for next time so I don't scrape my arms and hands up so much again?

 

[RickB]

Oil filter pliers are the ticket for both. It is not necessary to tighten either the spin on filters or the fuel filter canister anywhere near as tight as the factory. Experience will make the chore easier, too.

 

[Boomerang1]

My loader only takes 3 min to remove. Sometimes I take it off once a day depending on the circumstances.

 

[OkeeDon]

If the TC29 is anything like the TC18, taking the loader off won't help. The loader frame, which always stays attached unless one practically disasembles the tractor, is still in the way. On the TC18, the oil filter is not a serious problem (although it isn't really easy). The fuel filter, however, is nearly impossible. I had to buy a special vice grip with huge, long, curving jaws to get it loose the first time -- I'm sure the factory installed it before they installed the FEL frame. Since then, I can get it loose with a big pair of water pump pliers, held just so with my nose scrunched over and one eye squinting, turning it about 1/16" at a time. Getting the cables, etc. out of the way to get the filter cup back up in place is also a trick.

The filter bracket is attached to the firewall with a single bolt, which is difficult but not impossible to get at. I've been tempted to find a new location and fabricate a new bracket, but I'm not sure how the system works. The filter is located between the fuel tank above and the injectors somewhat below, and I'm not sure it would work if I located it higher or lower. Does anyone know if the fuel system on these engines use a fuel pump strong enough to overcome a different filter location? I suppose I could just try it, but that would be a lot of effort if it doesn't work.


When all else fails with variousl oil filters I've had over the years, I ram a big, long screwdriver through the filter and wiggle it to get it started. I can usually find a spot where something long and narrow can get to it with a little bit of wiggle room. That's a last resort, however, because it doesn't always work, and the filter is then destroyed.

 

[jrinck]

Thanks, everyone. It looks like there is no easy way, so at least I know I'm in good company!

I was kind of nervous after putting both filters back on--wondering if I tightened them enough--but they seem to be OK.

 

[MikePA]

I have a TC25D (same configuration as the 29 and the 33) with a 7308 FEL. I don't have any problems getting to either the oil or fuel filters, so I am having trouble visualizing what issues you're having. To get the oil filter off, I use a 'cap wrench' the kind that slides on the top of the filter, then use a socket wrench with a 9" extension. (after taking the side panel off, of course. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif)

 

[jimg]

I used a strap wrench...one of the metal ones...w/ an articulating handle. The articulating handle made it pretty easy to miss the obstructions mostly. Just a hint...on my TC24 it was MUCH easier to remove the fuel filter if the oil filter was off. So, I timed fuel filter changes to coincide w/ ol changes. I think though making a special tool for the fuel filter cup ring would have been the best. I was thinking of making one out of a bit of pipe with notches in the top edge to engage the contour of the ring. I dont think this would bee too difficult either. The bottom end would be welded closed w/ a nut welded on that to engage a socket..

 

[RickB]

No one should have to use tools on the fuel filter ring after the initial change. Hand tight is sufficient, even if the factory guys don't think so. Changing fuel filter with EO filter off is very good advise, i forgot that in my initial post.

 

[jrinck]

The only good thing about not having good leverage to take the filter off, is that you have a similarly hard time putting the new one back on, which means it most likely won't go on too tight.

"Engineering for Service" is obviously a course the NH engineers didn't take, but as long as the tractor lasts 100,000 hours, I won't mind! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[jimg]

Yes, I installed mine hand tight. Its the factory guys who need the lesson. I think though having the tool would make it easier anyway even if the ring wasnt cranked down hard. It would provide the 'reach' instaed of contorting aroudn various bits and pieces. Just my take...