brake pedals on tc-29d

[dqdave1]

How smart were the engineers that designed the Hydro units on the TC- 29. Can anyone tell me how to push on the hydro pedal and use the independent brakes at the same time. Also does anyone else with a hydro unit think the range selector should be 1-3-2 not the 3-1-2 configuration since I use ranges 2 and 1 for work and 3 to move between areas and it is a pain to go from 2 to 1 and find 1 in the middle when if it was at top you could just pull it up all the way to 1 and vice versa.

 

[MikePA]

I agree with both your observations. I've never even had the brake pedals uncoupled. However, don't people usually use independant braking to get a tighter turning radius? If so, it's probably not needed on a CUT. My guess is that the brakes worked as designed on the gear models.

 

[beenthere]

Welcome to the Forum.
I like your thought on the range selection, and agree that 1 and 2 being at the ends of the 'throw' would be very helpful.
Per the use of individual brakes with HST, I often use the individual brakes on my CUT. To turn, to hold one wheel when it wants to slip during a turn or on a side-hill (in lieu of the diff. lock), and when using the FEL and the front snow plow, as well as the back blade.
If not intended for use, why not save the money and leave them off. I noticed the same arrangement on some 'Bota's.
/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
/forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[MikePA]

<font color="blue"> If not intended for use, why not save the money and leave them off. </font>
My guess is it's cheaper to have a single brake pedal arrangement regardless of the transmission versus one braking arrangement on HSTs and a different one on gear tractors. Again, just my guess.

 

[thcri]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Also does anyone else with a hydro unit think the range selector should be 1-3-2 not the 3-1-2 configuration since I use ranges 2 and 1 for work and 3 to move between areas and it is a pain to go from 2 to 1 and find 1 in the middle when if it was at top you could just pull it up all the way to 1 and vice versa. )</font>

I am going to disagree, well mostly. I like the way the range is because if you go from one end to the other you can go past. My 3 range if you pull it all the way back you will find another neutral. I even see that when pushing all the way forward. So I like them the way they are. I don't change much, I pretty much stay where I am but can see when using the loader switching from 1 to 2 would be used a lot.

As far as the brakes and the hydro pedal, I grew up on farms and it was common to use the brakes with the steering. But with the newer compacts I don't see a need for that anymore. There was a thread a while back on this and was discussed a lot. I like everything the way it is.

murph

 

[Inspector507]

The Class I is set up the same way on the hydro/brake pedals. I tried it once by setting the cruise and using the brakes to steer. Left brake causes the cruise to disengage.
I think I would just rather turn the wheel myself. Now my little Yanmar I owned, that thing was a blast to use brake steer with.

 

[Tazz]

My TC29d has a MMM with a right side discharge, I find it relatively easy to press the left brake while using my heel on the HST pedal. But having said that, I have used it only a few times over the last year because of the good turning radius even without super-steer. I'm sure the engineers were saving money by keeping the same brake systems for both models.

As for the shifter, it really doesn't bother me. At least it's not placed between my feet. I once borrowed a friends Mahindra while my 3000 was in the shop. The Mahindra had a manual trans. with reverse located in the forward position and shifted into forward (2nd gear) by pulling back. Wow, I got whiplash that day several times over. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[dqdave1]

I use my FEL all the time and the tractor never has enough power in range 2 to do the job so I am constantly going to range one and I have to play sometimes to get into range one when if it was in the range three spot you would simply pull it all the way back and when you need to go to range two you would just push it all the way down. You might have to play to get it into range 3 but I never "work " in range three.

 

[jinman]

Dave, you obviously have the wrong tractor... /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

You should have bought a Class III Boomer (TC35-40-45). They have the hydro pedals on the right and the brake pedals on the left side. They also have only two hydro ranges and two speeds in each range controlled by a joystick or fender-mounted switch. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Actually, I use differential steering to "help" steer, but with my tractor in 4wd where I use it most of the time, the differential braking is not nearly as effective as it is in 2wd. In 2wd, you can lock the inside wheel and spin around on a dime. I wouldn't try this on your lawn though. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

So... When are you trading your tractor on a new one? /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Welcome to TBN! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[djradz]

I honestly think it's the old case of an engineer/designer, drawing the thing up without actually ever having used one. Sure, the gear models work fine, but that's still no reason to force the hydro-folks to use something thats not suitable. If I'm pushing snow, brush hogging, or plowing, with my 40D, I occasionally use brake-steering to turn tight. There's no point in having split pedals if you can't. NH clearly screwed up on this one!