Ford 3000 Diesel-Hard to Start

[DieselMonk]

Hi Tazz!

O.k, then you would have to run some lighter oil than SAE30 or 15W40. Running the lighter oil in the summer time is no good as it will go by the rings on these old tractors and burn. In mine new TC55DA is Ambra 0W40 full synthetic which I run all year around. There is a big difference between these old engines and new ones. Anyhow... the last winter I had my MF165, I put in 5W40 as it was quite chilly for easier starting. That worked real good, but once the outside temp went over the 0 celisus mark, my old MF liked that light oil a lot!

BTW: everybody makes mistakes! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Max

 

[Griffin]

Tazz,

You mentioned that you had to keep your starter engaged for 10-15 seconds for the engine to build up enough rpm's to run on it's own. This is exactly what mine is doing.

Was your problem related to the injectors or was it low compression?

Thanks,
Griffin

 

[DieselMonk]

TGriffin:

More compression makes the starter work harder, but creates also more heat thus igniting the diesel better. Normally the injectors injecting a mist of fuel in the zylinders burning the diesel fuel real good (like in an oil furnace). A worn injector does not make any mist anymore and kida drips the fuel on to the piston and zylinder walls thus not burning completely. Since your tractor has no glow pugs, you would have to remove the injectors anyway to do a compression test or to rebuild the injectors. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Good luck!

Max

 

[Griffin]

Max:

Thanks for the "Diesel 101" course. I need all the help I can get.

I'll take the injectors off and have them tested this weekend.

Regarding the injector pump, is this a serarate item? If so, should I have it tested and reworked at the same time as the injectors?

Thanks again,
TGriffin

 

[Tazz]

Hey all,
Been on a road trip so couldn't respond yesterday.
Diesel, I honestly don't recall what grade oil I used but I think it was 15-40 year round. That's what I use now in my TC29d only now it's sythetic oil.
I had to crank the starter on my 3000 for 10-15 seconds until the rpm's built up where it would run on it's own. And during the start it would make a big cloud of unburned kerosene smoke. This happened all year,summer and longer in winter.
I removed all the injectors and fuel pump for testing. The injectors looked realy nasty but tested like new. The pump was worn and needed to be rebuilt. Even after the rebuilt pump the starting was the same, lots of blue smoke and slow to catch on.
My tach was broken when I bought the tractor but it was showing 3500+ hours on it. No telling exactly what the real time was.
I had low compression on two cylinders and very low on the third. I ended up rebuilding the engine, this ended all start problems.
If you do remove the pump and injectors for testing remember the following.

1 DO NOT GET ANY DIRT OR DUST IN THE LINES OR OPENINGS.

2 BLEED any air out of the lines

3 MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO LEAKS. The injectors do not spray much fluid and the slightest leak could be a big problem

Goos luck, hope this helps
tazz

 

[DieselMonk]

Griffin:

The fuel pump is a different item and you will find it on the other end of the steel line going to the injectors. Yes, get the pump tested as well... this way you know your engine inside out. Post the results!!!

You're welcome!
Max

 

[Griffin]

Tazz,

How much did you spend on rebuilding your engine. I live just down the road from you in Hockley, TX so the rates should be about the same. I realize that there are different levels of rebuilding, but I would like a ball park figure so I know if I want to keep the Ford or sell and buy new.

Thanks,
TGriffin

 

[Griffin]

Max,

After rereading your post regarding engine oil, I remember that my hard starting problems began shortly after changing my engine oil back in June. I used Ambra Mastergold HSP NH330H SAE 15W-40. This was my first oil change so I have know idea what was in the tractor previously.

Maybe a simple oil change could help eleviate my problems. The guy I bought the tractor from told me that he had changed the rings two years ago. Maybe he did, maybe he didn't.

I would prefer to change the oil again to see if this could help. What weight would you suggest?

Thanks,
Griffin

 

[Soundguy]

For texas?.. if it didn't like the 15-40 which is what I would prefer.. I'd try sae 30w or 20w50 in that worn diesel...leaning more towards the sae 30w.. depending on oil pressures.. etc..

Soundguy

 

[DieselMonk]

You could try changing the oil... but remember as harder the oil as more force it takes to crank it when cold. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif Does the tractor burn any oil? Did you change the fuel filter? Did the engine had that problem before you done anything to it? You can't fix an engine forever by putting harder oil in it either. It just putts the problem further down the road. How much you wanna spend to fix it, depends really on you too on how much you like your tractor and how long you wanna keep it too. To get a compression test and the injectors tested should not cost you an arm and a leg. This way you can be sure though which way things are going in the engine and you can sleep better. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Happy New Year folks! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Max