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  1. #1
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    Default Ford 1710 Fuel Injection Pump Woes

    My 4x4 diesel 1710 (acquired with the house I bought, history unknown, but definately not well maintained) is having a fuel injection pump problem.

    I've got fuel to the pump and over to the pump bleeder screww but that is it...nothing up to the injectors and further trouble shooting shows nothing at the output nipples to the fuel lines to hte injectors.

    Under an inspection plate are three small springs that look very similar to valve psrings. Under each spring is a lifter which appears to be cam driven....the cam is spinning (it's integrity is however unknown) and the lifters are pumping, but they do not seem to be compressing the springs above them????

    THe lifters appears to be bolt heads (actually two of them) and they seem to spin up or down. I can adjust them to get movement on the springs, but now a strange sound is originating from the pump. I'm at wits end.

    Are these lifters adjustable? Any one know specs or what is actually required to effectively adjust them? Does the fact that they need adjusting something bigger in and of itself (worn cam shaft lobes????) I assume that removing the pump to replace a cam would require reaquiring injection timing....Is this something beyond the shade tree farmer without a shop manual?

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks,

    J Bear.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member
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    Default Re: Ford 1710 Fuel Injection Pump Woes

    i have a repair manual for the 1710. but maybe you fixed it by now since its a couple of days later. i would see what the book has to say about it if you still need help.

  3. #3
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    Kubota L48 Kobelco sk100 Kobelco sko35 case 450 Mack R600

    Default Re: Ford 1710 Fuel Injection Pump Woes

    If you have been into the fuel pump and trying to adjust the delivery valves you might as well find some one to remove the pump and send it to be rebuilt the plungers in the pump are set on a test bench and cannot be adjusted on the machine. Do not play to long with the engine trying to get it started now you could ruin the pump or worse!

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Ford 1710 Fuel Injection Pump Woes

    Quote Originally Posted by Dirthog
    ....Do not play to long with the engine trying to get it started now you could ruin the pump or worse!
    &

    Quote Originally Posted by randy41
    i have a repair manual for the 1710....
    Thanks Gents. I appreciate the feedback.

    I have concluded from discussions with other farmers, diesel mechs, and from others that I will need a new or rebuilt pump. A rebuild is not available from my supplier (modern) but a rebuild is possible with a shop that takes mine, takes it apart and fixes her up. I think I've decided on just biting the bullet and getting a new one @ $1300.00.

    Apparently however, taking this busted one off requires some prep in order to allow me to easily reestablish timing.

    I've an I&T service manual on order at my local TSC, but Randy if you would be so kind and check your 1710 manual, and let me know if their is anything I can or should do to get ths pump off so I can get it replaced?

    Thanks Again,

    J Bear

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Hooked_on_HP's Avatar
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    Coal City IL
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    Ford 1900 FWD Kubota F2100E

    Default Re: Ford 1710 Fuel Injection Pump Woes

    If it was me I would get your pump rebuilt. Your tractor is about 20 yrs old and you say not verry well maintained. I would spend as little as possible to keep it going. You never know what is going to go wrong next. The tractors like you and I have are verry hard to find parts for if at all.Some of the parts have been discontinued.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Ford 1710 Fuel Injection Pump Woes

    this doesnt look that difficult.
    1. make a mark on the pump and front mounting plate so you can line them up again when reinstalling. a scratch with a chisel will work. (if you are getting a new pump theres no point to doing this)
    2. remove the injection lines and cap all openings.
    3.remove the throttle control rod from the lever.
    4. disconnect fuel inlet line (close valve from fuel tank....duh)
    5. remove the alternator assembly and drive belt.
    6. remove the timing gear cover plate and gasket. this is a hexagonal plate with 6 bolts holding it on. its behind the alternator looking at the pump from the front.
    7. rotate the crankshaft to align the idler gear and pump drive gear timing marks.
    8. remove the pump coupling retaining nut...this is in the center of the pump drive gear.
    9. remove the pump mounting bolts and nuts and remove the injection pump.

    theres a note that says exercise care to not lose the pump coupling key during removal.

    sounds easy enough.

    it looks like installing the new pump is not as easy but i reckon you'll get your manual by then.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Ford 1710 Fuel Injection Pump Woes

    Thank you all for your input. Particularly for the kind recital of the pump removal procedure from Randy.

    I'll let you all know how much the rebuild ends up costing. Hopefully I won't machineless for to long.

    -bear

  8. #8
    Veteran Member jimmysisson's Avatar
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    1993 NH 2120 (the best), 1974 MF 135 (sold, but solid), 1947 Farmall A (bought, sold, bought back, sold again), 1956 MH50 lbt (sold, in 1980, darn it)

    Default Re: Ford 1710 Fuel Injection Pump Woes

    Don't forget to unhook the battery so no-one bumps the starter...
    Jim
    "Anything worth doing is worth doing slowly" Mae West

  9. #9
    Elite Member
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    Default Re: Ford 1710 Fuel Injection Pump Woes

    I did not see any specific mention of bleeding the fuel lines. Just because you have fuel to the pump is not good enough, it must be fuel without any air bubbles.

  10. #10
    Silver Member topstoy's Avatar
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    Tonasket, WA
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    JD 2520 / Ford 1710

    Default Re: Ford 1710 Fuel Injection Pump Woes

    Have you tried bleeding each line just before it goes into the cylinder? I've ran my 1710 out of fuel a few times over the years and you have to get every air bubble out of each fuel line or no go. I would try that before spending a ton of money. Crack each fitting loose about a 1/2 turn and then crank your engine over. Give your starter a rest after 30 seconds of cranking. Be patient and wait for the bubbles. Once one of the lines clear up tighten it up and continue to bleed the remainder. Good luck! Ken

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