TC40DA grapple hydraulic ?s

   / TC40DA grapple hydraulic ?s #1  

boomer4snow

Silver Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2004
Messages
115
Location
Central Illinois
Tractor
2004 NH TC40DA
Hello all, being a little on the new side to things hydraulic, I wonder if anybody can share some experience and theory with me. I have a 04 TC40DA and early this year I built a quick-tach root grapple for it. All went well and I powered it with the rear remote and 20+ feet of hose hanging zip tied all over the place. I work in medical contracting usually out of state for long periods so I figured that this zip tie/rear remote arrangement would get me started until I get home again to use it. My BIL managed to "step on its tail" and snagged a hose and bent up some of the front curl cylinders steel lines while using the grapple and I want to fix it correctly so it won't happen again (actually I am suprised it took this long to break).

Pineridge has a great pic section showing a electric hyd. selector setup that I would like to copy, but I would like to hear how it has held up for him.

Any ideas on how hard it would be to fab up some new steel lines to replace the bent ones on the FEL, and possible make some new ones for the grapple cylinders.

I used a single 2"x10"x1" cylinder, and the action is way to quick (1/2" hose)
and it doesnt really have a lot of "pinch" power. I am thinking 1/4" hose will slow it down for fine control, and maybe stepping up to a larger cylinder will give it more "pinch". I could also just add a 2nd cylinder but that would mean creating 2 new mounting points which I would prefer not to do.

any ideas/comments would be very helpful/welcome.. thanks
 
   / TC40DA grapple hydraulic ?s #2  
Boomer, you must know we are just itching for pictures. There must be a way to re-fab your lines or just replace
Jim
 
   / TC40DA grapple hydraulic ?s #3  
Doubt you would be able to bend up lines as well as the factory ones, not to mention the zinc plating for rust prevention. Using stainless steel could work, but with no experience in bending lines, especially SS lines, this could be an expensive learning curve. Then there is the either compression line ends, or if you are willing to attempt the double flared ends required for the high pressure. I have done a few double flared ends, but not in SS. I would opt for the dealer lines, and I'm a bit surprised that your BIL hasn't offered to purchase a new set for you, but then again people are different all over the world. I remember when my uncle Mickey borrowed mt father's almost new chainsaw, and brought it back uncleaned, and in the shape as if it had survived the invasion of Normandy. Personally, even as a little kid I didn't care much for uncle Mickey, he was a moocher who would be always borrowing whatever he could from my father, with never repaying anything. I thought also of bending lines for my Hydraulic coupler for the FEL, but went ahead and bought 3/8" hydraulic hose, tucked it in very nicely, and straped in down with tie wraps. Good Luck with your decisions.
 
   / TC40DA grapple hydraulic ?s #4  
boomer4snow said:
Pineridge has a great pic section showing a electric hyd. selector setup that I would like to copy, but I would like to hear how it has held up for him.

I also added a diverter to my FEL, I only use it for a snowplow at this point, but a grapple is in my future:)

Mine has held up fine through two winters now. I would highly recomend this setup.
Although its on a green tractor, I thought you might like to see the pics of my install.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48310
 
   / TC40DA grapple hydraulic ?s #5  
boomer4snow said:
Pineridge has a great pic section showing a electric hyd. selector setup that I would like to copy, but I would like to hear how it has held up for him.

I used a single 2"x10"x1" cylinder, and the action is way to quick (1/2" hose)
and it doesnt really have a lot of "pinch" power. I am thinking 1/4" hose will slow it down for fine control, and maybe stepping up to a larger cylinder will give it more "pinch". I could also just add a 2nd cylinder but that would mean creating 2 new mounting points which I would prefer not to do.

I am pretty sure PineRidge used an electric diverter from Surplus Center instead of a third function electric/hydraulic valve. Biggest difference is the fact that with the diverter you are "sharing" one of the loader functions (but they both can't work simultaneously) while with the third function valve you can operate it along with both loader functions. About a $90 difference.

I used 1/4" hoses and can really feather the grapple nicely. I, and others here, always recommend 1/4" hoses or a restricted 3/8" hose for such implements as a grapple and HTL. The smaller diameter hose will put just enough restriction in the flow to allow nice and easy cylinder operation.
 
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   / TC40DA grapple hydraulic ?s #6  
boomer4snow said:
Hello all, being a little on the new side to things hydraulic, I wonder if anybody can share some experience and theory with me. I have a 04 TC40DA and early this year I built a quick-tach root grapple for it. All went well and I powered it with the rear remote and 20+ feet of hose hanging zip tied all over the place. I work in medical contracting usually out of state for long periods so I figured that this zip tie/rear remote arrangement would get me started until I get home again to use it. My BIL managed to "step on its tail" and snagged a hose and bent up some of the front curl cylinders steel lines while using the grapple and I want to fix it correctly so it won't happen again (actually I am suprised it took this long to break).

Pineridge has a great pic section showing a electric hyd. selector setup that I would like to copy, but I would like to hear how it has held up for him.

Any ideas on how hard it would be to fab up some new steel lines to replace the bent ones on the FEL, and possible make some new ones for the grapple cylinders.

I used a single 2"x10"x1" cylinder, and the action is way to quick (1/2" hose)
and it doesnt really have a lot of "pinch" power. I am thinking 1/4" hose will slow it down for fine control, and maybe stepping up to a larger cylinder will give it more "pinch". I could also just add a 2nd cylinder but that would mean creating 2 new mounting points which I would prefer not to do.

any ideas/comments would be very helpful/welcome.. thanks

The front hydraulic system that I installed has held up very well. I am pleased with the fact that there are no hoses dangling from the rear remotes to be snagged on rocks and roots.

When I first installed the hoses to the grapple from the diverter valve they were 6 inches shorter than the hoses for the FEL which caused a bit of a problem for me when disconnecting the FEL. I went to my local hydraulic shop and had 2 six inch extensions made and it solved the problem pronto.

I use the front hydraulics for the grapple as well as a snow plow and I rate the front hydraulics as one of the most useful additions that I have added to the TC-40D. I think you will too.

The electric diverter valve.
 
   / TC40DA grapple hydraulic ?s #7  
The front hydraulic system that I installed has held up very well. I am pleased with the fact that there are no hoses dangling from the rear remotes to be snagged on rocks and roots.

When I first installed the hoses to the grapple from the diverter valve they were 6 inches shorter than the hoses for the FEL which caused a bit of a problem for me when disconnecting the FEL. I went to my local hydraulic shop and had 2 six inch extensions made and it solved the problem pronto.

I use the front hydraulics for the grapple as well as a snow plow and I rate the front hydraulics as one of the most useful additions that I have added to the TC-40D. I think you will too.

The electric diverter valve.

Pinridge, I wonder how you add an additional button to the loader joy stick without compromising the Rabbit/Turtle shifter buttons on it. Do you have any pictures to show how you did it? Thanks!
 
 
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