DX33 Starting Problem....

[CBox]

Hello Everyone,

Over the summer I seemed to have developed a small headache in starting my tractor. (The headache seems to get worse when my better half tries to start the tractor so she can mow ……………just read on.) The problem seems to be getting progressively worse and I would really like some input. I know that the ignition switch problem has been discussed on here before, but I am not sure that it is my problem and I would like some help before I start in.

Here is my problem: My tractor is a 2002 model with about 340 hours, and when you first turn the ignition switch to the on position, the glow plug timer runs its cycle and then “times” out. After the light goes out, I then turn the key to hit the starter and all I get is a “click” which sounds like the starter solenoid. (I never try to start the engine while the glow plugs are heating, I always wait until they “time out”. I know this has been discussed on here before.) I should also mention that my wife has discovered that if you hold the key in the start position for a few seconds after hearing the “click”, that it will blow the main 30amp fuse. (Let’s just say, thanks to her, I now have an overstock of 30 amp fuses on hand.)

However, if you “bump” the starter (by turning the key rapidly) several times the engine will typically turn over after the 4th or 5th attempt. Once the engine is running, everything is fine. After running the engine for a while and everything is warm, you can typically shut the engine off and it will start right back up. But sometimes it will repeat the same symptoms as I stated above. I should also say that I just replaced the battery back in the spring, so I really don’t think that is the problem.

Anyone have any ideas where I should start???

Thanks,
CBox

 

[jinman]

This truly sounds like a defective starter solenoid because of the 30 amp fuse blowing after the click. I suppose the ignition switch could be shorting out, but I'd think it would "fry" if it pulled enough to blow a 30 amp fuse.

Here is the key to the problem as I see it. The 30 amp main fuse is for power to all the tractor including the power to the solenoid. When the solenoid engages and connects the starter to the battery, there is no fuse or circuit breaker in that line. It's a direct wire and the starter pulls much, much more than 30 amps on a normal basis. What I think might be happening is that your solenoid is not fully engaging or the ignition switch is faulty. Either of these could cause the problem, but the fact that repeated trys normally get it to work seems to indicate a faulty starter solenoid.

 

[CBox]

Jim,

Thanks for the reply, your input is greatly appreciated. I was leaning towards the starter, but really wanted to hear it from someone else first.

The old starter doesn’t look too hard to remove, but I am afraid to get a price on a new one from Case. You think it would be worth my time and $ to have this one rebuilt while I have it off, or just the new solenoid?

Thanks again,
Cory

 

[AlanB]

I could be way off base here, so just take it for what it is worth.

I just discovered on my tractor (yes, the one I have had the last couple of years) that there is a push to turn feature of my key / ignition switch that I never realized (aftermarket key, big key ring, never realized / felt it)

Just for grins, try pushing down on your key and see if the ignition switch is spring loaded.

I just am figuring mine out and not positive I have it correct yet, but I believe on mine, I turn it all the way to the right with it at the "up" position and that is preheat, then go back off and push, turn all the way right with it pushed is "start"

Again, I could be way off base, but I found mine very odd. Always wondered why it worked better with the wifes key then mine, thought it was the key, but turns out it was the key ring, and I naturally pushed down with her key / ring combo and mine pulled it too much too the side.

Hope that made some sense.

I have a NH 1925 which is the predecessor of the TC33

 

[Soundguy]

I'm with Jinman.. starter solenoid..

Here's a test.. have your wife inthe seat, and you standing by with a hammer. If it clicks, tap the starter solenoid with a hammer, and see if it doesn't kick over.

If so.. a rebuild or replacement is in order. A rebuild should be much cheaper..

Soundguy

 

[jinman]

The old starter doesn’t look too hard to remove, but I am afraid to get a price on a new one from Case. You think it would be worth my time and $ to have this one rebuilt while I have it off, or just the new solenoid?

Cory, you do not have to replace that whole starter. My starter on my TC45D has a complete parts breakdown and you can order repair parts directly from New Holland. Your dealer's parts counter should be able to help you after you pull the starter apart and find the part you want to replace (probably solenoid).

Here is how that solenoid works...
It has two coils: 1. a pickup coil (high current), 2. a hold-in coil (low current). When your starter works normally, the solenoid engages with a higher current and then when the contact is made between the starter and the battery, the solenoid pickup coil becomes unpowered and the hold-in coil keeps it energized until the engine starts and you release the ignition.

I think since your starter solenoid is not fully engaging, it is staying the high current mode and that is blowing your fuse. That seems to be exactly what you described in your original post.

 

[CBox]

Alan B.

Thanks for the input. I know just what you mean by your ignition switch. My brother has a TC25 (2001 model, I think) and his switch is that way. Mine is a little newer style, but thanks again for the input.

Jim and Soundguy,

Thanks for the advice. I’ll try and get to the Case dealer on Monday and see if I can get a solenoid on order. My bet is they don’t carry these in stock. I have to haul my wife’s 1st grade class on a hayride later in October and I can’t afford to have the tractor not start. She has a bunch of John Deere kids in her class and they like to tease her because we are “red” people.

Thanks again,
Cory

 

[Soundguy]

Talk about teasing. I have a NH tractor.. but JD mower... I never hear the end of that one..

Soundguy

 

[dqdave1]

read the thread today by typhoon " for all those with starting problems" Sounds like your problem. If switch is junk it will cause the 30 amp fuse to blow because of contact "delay" or sticking.

 

[jinman]

Thanks for the advice. I’ll try and get to the Case dealer on Monday and see if I can get a solenoid on order. My bet is they don’t carry these in stock.

Cory, as much as I think your problem could be the solenoid, I would not put another one on order until I took the old one out and checked its operation. It might only need cleaning or burnishing in a spot where it is hanging. I'd hate to see you spend the money and it turned out to be something else. It could be the ignition switch and it could be something in the starter that won't let the solenoid energize properly. Buying the solenoid without knowing for sure might be an expensive "roll of the dice."