For those with Starting Problem

[Typhoon]

Well after several months of trying to track down a problem, I have finally solved it. For those of you with boomers (especially class 2's), you might have had this symptom, or may have it in the future. The symptom, is when you turn the key, you just get a "click" that sounds like the starter solenoid is hitting but nothing else happens. It took several months, many hours with a tester, 3 different batteries, and MANY 30 amp main fuses to finally solve this intermittent problem.
First and foremost, I am not by any means saying that my findings are going to be exactly what everyone else finds, because electrical systems can be complex.(Safety switches, lever adjustments, etc.) However, with this particular symptom, I AM going to say that the chances are very good that this will solve your problem. Hopefully, the time I have invested in this problem can save you some time and $$!
Ok now to the fix...
If you want to resolve this problem for good, the fix is simple, but requires a little $$. You will need a new ignition switch from an auto parts store.. NOT another factory New Holland switch. You will also need an Optima battery. (Must be an optima, not any other battery). The Optima battery that fits in the TC29/33 tractors is the 51R. However, I could not find a 51R so I got the larger yellow top, and built a battery tray that made it fit. It is a little bigger but it works great.
Now the reason for this...
The ignition switches that New Holland puts in these tractors are junk.. to put it simply. When you take it apart (do this when you replace it), you will see what I am talking about. They are made with flimsy little plastic and metal parts, with flimsy little springs. When I took mine apart, alot of the plastic inside was deformed from heat and the little metal parts were bent, and not making good contact. So get a good heavy duty ignition switch from the auto parts store, (a metal one), and replace.
Next (the most important part), replace your old battery with the optima. Obviously, tractors don't provide the smoothest ride in the world, and after 3 different batteries (the latter two being replacements by my New Holland dealer), I am convinced that even the new improved batteries leak a little, even if its just vapor, and cause excess corrosion on the terminals. The Optima battery is the permanent and end-all fix for this problem. An Optima can even be ran upside down. They are great. And you won't have to worry about any more corrosion on your battery tray or your hydro cooler and radiator.
After I made these upgrades, I have not had a single ignition problem since. Fact is, the starters and solenoids are well-made parts in these tractors, and although it might be the first culprit that comes to mind, they probably are not the problem. Your solenoid and starter have to receive a certain voltage to work properly, and with a poor ignition switch and a battery that is sub-par, you will just get "CLICK". That "CLICK" drove me NUTS for the longest time.. but not anymore! Also, you can do what I did and test voltages in different locations, but that becomes a challenge at times because this problem is very intermittent.
Sorry that this was so long, but I wanted to be thorough because I went through this and it was VERY frustrating and costly to say the least.
Good luck!!
-Brad

[MikePA]

You will also need an Optima battery. (Must be an optima, not any other battery).

Odyssey dry cell batteries will work just as well.

[AlanB]

Do you have a part # for the switch you used? Does it have the 4 positions? Did you use the Acc position for preheat?

Thanks

[Doc_Bob]

Great post!
Bob

[Typhoon]

Alan, yes... the acc position (if my memory serves me correctly) is used for preheat. As far as positions, it feels exactly the same as the stock ignition switch. The main thing, is to make sure the threaded part fits through the hole. The switch I found sticks out about 1/2 inch further than the factory one, but thats ok. As far as a part #, I am sorry I don't have one. I just asked for a good ignition switch and he (guy at NAPA) showed me a few options. I picked the one that was closest in size to the factory ignition switch. New Holland definately needs to address the quality of their ignition switches in at least some of their tractors. When taken apart, you will see why I am saying this. They are just not built to last through what will most likely be THOUSANDS of starts for most people. They are VERY cheaply made, I can't imagine them costing over 1.00. As far as the odyssey (sp?) battery that was mentioned, I don't know anything about them, but they sound like an option. I chose the optima because of everything I had heard about them from friends and folks on here, and because they were easily available to me. I was also impressed with the cold cranking amps on this battery (Yellow top).
Hope this helps!
-Brad

[jinman]

Great post, Brad. Hopefully CBox (Cory) may be able to do the same with his tractor. I told him that his problem sounded like a solenoid, but what you are saying makes perfect sense too. The fact that your switch was burned internally an partially melted is just what I'd expect from pulling 30 amps.

I think you will really like your Optima. I sure like mine too so far.

Its a shame NH hasn't just taken the move to put Optimas or some similar battery in all their tractors as standard equipment. I think I would gladly have paid the few dollars more it would have cost and they would not have had to replace my radiator and hydrostatic cooler hoses under warranty. Seems like a win-win situation to me. Obviously, they don't see it the same.

[drm]

Typoon,

I have not had the starting problem yet but I have been down the battery replacement road. I appreciate your detail on the starting problem and intend to save this thread for future use.

As far as the battery issue goes, a quality Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) battery should work fine. I went to a local family owned battery shop, they only do batteries and all the "local" automotive type businesses highly recommend them. They mainly deal with Deka brand batteries which is a very large battery manufacturer along with a few other brands. The Deka AGM battery they provided fit right up with the original battery hold downs (replaced due to corrosion) with no modifications. When I get some time I will post this model and pics. They could get the Optima if I wanted but the Deka AGM battery cost $101vs about $140+ tax for the Optima.

Just another option for replacing the junk OEM battery.

[CBox]

Typhoon,

Thanks for all of the detail. I think you described my “starting problem” exactly. I will definitely look into this before I pull my starter out. What finally led you to replacing the switch? Did your switch feel worn when you turned it? My switch has a very “positive” feel when you turn it and I guess I would have never given it a thought.

Thanks again for the post,
Cory

[SteveInMD]

I haven't blown any 30 amp fuses on my 33. I have gotten a 'click' when I turn the key and end up with a blown 10 amp fuse (number 5 I think). I wonder if a new ignition switch would solve this problem. I did replace it once, but I do so with another NH part. The new switch did solve the problem of my glow plugs energizing at random times.

[mjcbluridg]

Your trail to the solution sounds a lot like what I went through with my old Ford 1210 after suffering years of the annoying click, click, wait, and start. After I replaced the ignition switch, things worked fine but as time went on, the problem began to resurface. Will keep the quality aftermarket switch in mind in the future for my TC 34 if this happens again. Also, a comment on the DEKA batteries. Where I work, we use several 36 volt EZ GO industrial buggies. The DEKA brand of batteries is very popular in this type of service and seems to hold up well and provide long service lives.