Ford 5000 Alternator Conversion

   / Ford 5000 Alternator Conversion #1  

El_Gato

New member
Joined
Mar 10, 2004
Messages
5
Location
St Louis, Missouri
My 1974 Ford 5000 (English Version) has stopped charging. It is probably the generator brushes or VR I am guessing. I am considering changing to a 3-Wire alternator with the internal regulator (one guy I work with swears this is the only way to go). My biggest problem is how do I get a good Tach reading? The tach is driven off of the back of the generator with a speedometer type cable to the gage on the dash.

Or maybe I shold just figure out what is wrong and stay with the existing system? Any suggestions?

Thanks for any replies.
 
   / Ford 5000 Alternator Conversion #2  
Any chance Ford used an alternator in later years - that might fit AND have the tach connection? NH dealer maybe could look that up for you. Otherwise get a new regulator; if that don't fix it have the gen rebuilt.
 
   / Ford 5000 Alternator Conversion #3  
Ford never used an alternator with a tach drive. Tisco offers an alternator conversion (Delco 10si) that has a tach drive. Most farm equipment dealers carry the Tisco line.
 
   / Ford 5000 Alternator Conversion #4  
Yep.. as Rick mentioned.. you canget an alt with a tach drive. As far as i know.. it's cheaper to buy a new tractor though ( just kididng.. a little ) Though it is probably cheaper to get your genny rebuilt and a new vr.. seriously... unless that alternator with tach drive has come down by about 60% or so.

Those (lucas: prince of darkness ) genny and regulator are B- Circuit.. meaning that the regulator field tab provides field power to the genny's internally grounded field.

Try polarizing first.. that is.. jumper power to field contact ont he back of the genny. then restart and check charge at 1000 rpm. if nothing, then full field in the same manner... jumper power to the field tab. If you get charge, then the regulator is bad. OEM reg is about 25$.. and is.. uh.. junky... You can retrofit a ford hundred series diesel ( 12v ) regulator into the system for about 40$ and it is way more reliable.. just remember the oem reg is charge limited to about 20a.. and the retrofit reg is charge limited to 25a.. so you want to watch your loads.

If the charge lamp tries to go out.. but doesn't.. i'd suspect brushes.. an easy fix... (cheap too.. )

Soundguy
 
 
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