TC34 Girl Tractor ?

JRBS · Aug 20, 2006

First, thanks to all who replied to my message, this is my first time in any kind of a "discussion forum" so I will have to learn as I go.

As for the "A" plan being for the employee only, I understand this and the tractor will be "sold" to him and delivered to his property (which adjoins mine) and for a period of time be used by both of us. He lives on the east coast and I am in the Midwest so I kind of watch over his place anyway. He inherited a MF35 from his father-in-law which is in worse shape than my MF65 was so he needs a tractor also. I guess I am willing to spring for the $$ if he can contribute the discounted price.

Since the tractor will have an FEL, the dealer will not let it leave without some sort of weight and the fluid is less expensive than weights. I have found that in order to stay independant, I need to spend a little extra and have newer and easier to use equipment. "Work smarter not harder" has sort of become my motto. Although I can figure out most things on my own, anything engine or mechanical related I am not good with. My motto here is "KISS" Keep it Simple Stupid !

I am glad to hear about the RimGuard and asked the dealer to check into it. That sounds like the perfect answer.

Right now I think we are looking at a price of around $18,000 to $18,500 so will post something when I get it in writing.

Egon · Aug 21, 2006

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leave without some sort of weight

I find this a little odd.

When mowing the less weight the better due to compaction issues. Any piece of equipment added to the three point should give counter weight. Filled tires should be your choice, not the dealer.

djradz · Aug 21, 2006

The guy who invented Rim Guard (beet-juice) is from Michigan and it is now available in the midwest if not nationwide. If your dealer is unwilling to use it (I"m surprised he's not already familiar with it), you may want to contact a local farm tractor tire repair facility, as they often no more about it.

wild4nature · Aug 21, 2006

I stopped at a NH dealer and he said the same thing about not wanting to let the tractor go off the lot without some kind of rear ballast. I need a box scraper, so that's going to take care of the weight for me. Those things are pretty heavy. The Land Pride (?) one they had at the dealer is made with thick steel and I think it will counter balance the FEL pretty good.

Maybe not the best solution if you are working in tight quarters, but for my needs it will work fine.

HTWT · Aug 22, 2006

I have a 1620 with 4500 hr. that i bought new in 1996. I have the tires loaded but i still do not use the FEL without a counterbalence on the 3pt. Usally I have my Harley rake when spreading material, but in tight situations I have a frame that holds manhole cover (about 1000 lb.). With out a counterbalance it is easy to lift the back tires off the ground.

daTeacha · Aug 24, 2006

Our local Deere dealer will not sell a loader equipped tractor without a ballast box. No legal requirement involved, just his policy to take care of his customers. If he knows you and he knows you have a piece of equipment or another ballast box at home, he will, but other than that, he feels the ballast is a necessary item with a loader.

I have a weight that hangs on the rear hitch, and weight on the wheels, but have not loaded the tires. When I first got the tractor and used it without the weights the loader would easily lift the rears with a full load in the bucket.

This size of CNH machine, with the curved loader and sloping hood design, is promoted as having outstanding visibility of the bucket, which is true. However, if you park it next to a similar size machine with a conventional loader, you will see that the curved arm design also moves the bucket about a foot forward. While this enhances your ability to see the bucket, it also makes a longer lever arm when using it, adding to the amount of load transfered to the front tires and increasing the tendency to lift the rears.

If it isn't too late, consider ordering a Woods or other brand of loader to go on your tractor. It will be a bit more stable and maneuverable since it will also be shorter when turning. You will still need some rear weight, be it in the tires, on the wheels, or on the hitch. I carry about 1300 lb in the back when doing serious loader work but have not loaded my tires since I work in the woods most of the time and a puncture would be expensive and messy.

Paul2000 · Aug 24, 2006

I would make sure it is a quick detach front end loader to allow use of other quick attach items later like forks for moving things. I use my forks to move things more than anything. As far as rear weight, you said you will do a lot of mowing with it. If you have a mower attached that should give some weight. It will all depend on how much weight you will be lifting. Others here can give a more experienced view of how much weight would be required. If your 3 pint hitch iplement is heavy enough you can save a few dollars. I can't recommend the quick detach front end loader enough. It is a few hundred dollars difference at the time of purchase, a few here have wished they had gotten it when purchased instead of needing it later and having to get one put on extra. Good luck to you and you have found the best site on the net for tractor related questions. The guys here are very helpful. Paul

schmism · Aug 24, 2006

I was surprised at how (pucker factor) easy it was to lift the rear of my tractor up with the front end loader (no wheel weights or loaded tires).

I brought mine home, and with in 20 min of riding on it had picked up the rear enough to get daylight under the rear.... It cought me way off gard and had me in the panic "freeze" mode before i relized what i need to do to correct it.

Not long after that i went and got my "new to me" (but used) huge landpide RB3572 rear blade and connected it up.

Sence then things have been much better.